102 replies to this topic

[VX Boyd]

Superb, thanks Vocky.

 

Dread to think what it will look like under the subframe when it comes to that.

 

Got duralac and a load of grease this time as it appears the spacers for the Quantums have formed quite the bond with the bolt running through them.

[VX Boyd]

Progress over the weekend was cleaning up the 15+ years of dirt inside the rear clam.

 

Started looking at getting the wishbones off this evening.

 

Nuts came off the the ball joints easily enough the the ball joint splitter i have doesn't seem to open up enough to press out the ball joint.

 

But the nut on the toe link ball joint is just spinning the ball joint... is the best way to get around this to apply some force to it with a jack and try again?

[mbes2]

Use a air gun. Gets them off in seconds

[Tony H]

Use a fork splitter and heavy hammer to bust baal joint tapers. The toe link ball joint has flats you can use to hold it with a spanner

[VX Boyd]

Might look at hiring some air tools from somewhere. Suspect it will save a good chunk of time as the to do list gets bigger. Cheers Tony, will have a look for those tomorrow.

 

Cleaned the ITG filter for the first time in a shamefully long time and it wasn't too bad but the throttle body certainly was dirtier than I was expecting.

[Nev]

Cleaned the ITG filter for the first time in a shamefully long time and it wasn't too bad but the throttle body certainly was dirtier than I was expecting.

 

If the dirt isn't entering the system from your air filter then you should inspect your crank breather, as it's likely to be oil coming up from that. You might be getting a fair bit of pressure and a swirl pot system would help with this. Letting oily de-oxygenated air into the cylinders is bad for power and causes carbon build up over time.

 

GL.  

Edited by Nev, 27 March 2018 - 08:24 AM.

[VX Boyd]

Cheers Nev. After seeing it come up in another project thread today, I don't feel like mine was too bad, but it definitely had a oily build up so I'll investigate.

[VX Boyd]

Just noticed a real rookie moment reading through the online guides... took the brakes off before undoing the driveshaft nut 

[Tony H]

might get away with putting the wheel back on with centre cap out, drop the car and undo through the hole.

 

can also jab a punch/screwdriver through one wheel nut hole so it locks against the hub if it turns

Edited by Tony H, 27 March 2018 - 11:25 AM.

[vocky]

fit one wheel nut, tighten it fully in, then use a crowbar between that and the centre of the hub to stop it turning whilst you undo the nut

[VX Boyd]

Cheers chaps, should save the pain of going backwards.

[sford]

I needed an offensively big breaker bar on mine to undo them when I did my suspension refresh but it did undo eventually. I also did the same as you and had to use the brace against the hub method!

[VX Boyd]

Fairly good progress despite the weather. Rears are nearly stripped, just the driver wishbones left. Though here's a fun one... stripped hub carrier bolt? Guessing this isn't as easy to get around as the brake screw.

 

Manifold has a large forking split, I expected to change it but I guess I better get on to it regarding lead times...

 

Is Tullet the best option? 

Edited by VX Boyd, 03 April 2018 - 07:41 AM.

[sford]

I had a hub carrier bolt snap many years ago. Took the hub to a local garage got them to weld a nut on to undo the remaining bolt. Perhaps you can do something like that. Take the hub carrier and attached parts and get a nut welded on.

[VX Boyd]

Good Idea 

[ChrisS1]

Sounds like good progress Stripped (thread) hub carrier bolt or sheared hub carrier bolt? Very different problems with very different solutions.

[VX Boyd]

The cap head socket is stripped.

 

Another thing that slowed me down (and still is on the front I've attempted)... I fitted Quantum Zeros myself and tightened them up without any grease inside the bush and while they were unloaded meaning they formed quite a bond to the screws. Lesson learned there, need new o rings and bushes - might even send them off for a service though that soon adds up. Tried to remove the front wheel arches but every screw was seemingly done up by the Hulk. Don't think they or the front clam have ever been off though so was expecting it to be a pita.

[martinroger]

Following for stripped head socket, have the same issue.

 

[Tony H]

Heat it with blowtorch to crack the threadlock and sh*t in the threads. Plusgas. Then use an irwin hex extractor. If that dont work the welding ought to.

[martinroger]

Got more info on which extractor that'ld be ? Never had to do a socket cap head before, I figured I would just drill the head in ?

 

Heat it with blowtorch to crack the threadlock and sh*t in the threads. Plusgas. Then use an irwin hex extractor. If that dont work the welding ought to.