20 replies to this topic

[RC220]

Hi all,

 

I have owned my VX for 8 weeks now - and put @ 400 mls on it and this is my second car, not my daily driver.  I fixed the accelerator failure problem a couple of weeks ago thanks to the excellent info on this website.

 

I have Gaz Mono's en route (from another member) to replace the original Billies (@ 43,500 mls, and an MOT issue) and, as I have little in the way of service history, thought I might just go down the suspension refresh route, along with replacing the hut bolts and all the engine mounts.  And then have the geo done by someone who knows what they are doing.

 

I have a couple of questions:

 

Can all of the above be done by an amateur, and without removing the clams?  I know the 

 

There are different solutions to the different problems this kit addresses - eg.

the Spitfire Engineering Toe-Link Kit looks fantastic; there are other aftermarket wishbone bushes / bearings, anti roll bar drop links and ball joint kits...

 

I am not planning any extreme track days nor power hikes (yet).  Will this kit do the job?  All feedback welcomed.  I haven't seen a wishbone removal tutorial on the site yet but still looking...  

 

Kind regarads

Roy

 

[jules_s]

I (and I believe quite a few others) have used the Seriously Lotus refresh kit

[jonnyboy]

I can do you a set of OEM type bushes for £100 (I think this is under half the price you can get them for anywhere else) 

 

We can do the whole kit cheaper actually. 

[Foxy]

Also check the auction thread for other goodies

[hairy]

Another Seriously Lotus refresh here.

 

Yes you can tackle yourself and without removing calms. There are 2 good guides to help that I found really useful:

 

https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Category:DIY

 

http://www.tadts.com...ons/suspension/

 

[Pidgeon]

It's all perfectly do-able by an amateur, but there's a lot of stripdown (I removed my N/S/F bottom wishbone over the weekend, front sheer panel and footrest have to come out).  You need a good set of tools, ideally the special tools (for the balljoints and bushes) and a long breaker bar.  A lot of nuts will be tight!

[Nev]

When looking to replace bushes be aware that some need lubing regularly, some squeak, some wear quickly etc: i.e. they are not necessarily fit and forget like the OEM ones. Of course, the retailers and manufacturers are unlikely to mention these points, so I'd suggest you do some "deep" research.

 

For example, I have some different ARB bushes on mine and within 3 years they are squeaking a lot when its hot.

 

Edited by Nev, 12 June 2018 - 10:51 AM.

[jonnyboy]

I'd only ever fit OEM. I'm totally unconvinced about any supposed benefit to fitting anything other than just normal rubber bushes. 

[james_ly]

New OEM bushes one of the best things I've done to my car.

[RC220]

Thanks for the feedback guys. 

 

JonnyBoy, I am OK with OEM and happy to talk to you if you can match or beat the Elise Parts / Seriously Lotus prices.  Their kits are slightly different.  The Elise Parts kit appears to have more but is more expensive.

 

Given the lack of detailed service history for my car (and having read a lot of the threads on this site) I think it is important that the Toe Link Rods are part of what I do....and these aren't part of the SL Kit.  So, I think I need what is in the EP kit. I'll PM you. 

 

Pidgeon, I take your point re the special tools and a long breaker bar - I'll get these.

 

James_Ly, shocks arrived today, thanks.  They look great and I am looking forward to getting these on the car.  

 

Kind regards

Roy

 

[turbo boy]

Hi Roy,

The hub carrier bolts and toe links are essential items to replace for safety reasons.

If you are doing a suspension refresh it is worth considering powder coating the rear sub frame as they are all showing corrosion on the mating face.

Kind regards,

Jon

[VX Boyd]

It's a slippery and expensive slope once you get started. Absolutely recommend getting the sub frame away from the chassis and replacing the shims with duralac coated ones from Spitfire.

 

Don't think the bolts holding the frame to the chassis could have taken much more growth.

 

Nearly finished the rear end now

Edited by VX Boyd, 13 June 2018 - 09:28 AM.

[DX220]

And let's just say, you paid someone to take care of all of this for you..

 

Who? 

And how much? 

[Foxy]

And let's just say, you paid someone to take care of all of this for you..

Who?
And how much?

Jonnyboy
Lots

[fezzasus]

I'd only ever fit OEM. I'm totally unconvinced about any supposed benefit to fitting anything other than just normal rubber bushes. 

 

Agreed (i'm even starting to agree with you about the OEM radiator, having just found a leak in mine!)

 

Polyurethane bushes are incredibly popular but rely on a metal bush rotating in a soft material. This has a sanding motion which gets so much worse when 3rd body abrasives such as grit and rust get between the metal bush and the poly urethane. It's simply a poor design and one that will require regular replacement.  

[Spitfire Engineering]

The new chassis to subframe shims are actually treated with a 93% zinc solid epoxy.

They are  also much harder and a little thicker so will resist deformation much better.

 

Anyway they are cheaper than OE so a sub no brainer  

 

 

 

It's a slippery and expensive slope once you get started. Absolutely recommend getting the sub frame away from the chassis and replacing the shims with duralac coated ones from Spitfire.

 

Don't think the bolts holding the frame to the chassis could have taken much more growth.

 

Nearly finished the rear end now

 

[VX Boyd]

The slightly thicker might explain why I couldn't get the lower wishbones back on the car however. Had to lengthen the slots by 2mm on the wishbone to chassis brackets.

[jonnyboy]

I'd only ever fit OEM. I'm totally unconvinced about any supposed benefit to fitting anything other than just normal rubber bushes.

Agreed (i'm even starting to agree with you about the OEM radiator, having just found a leak in mine!)

Polyurethane bushes are incredibly popular but rely on a metal bush rotating in a soft material. This has a sanding motion which gets so much worse when 3rd body abrasives such as grit and rust get between the metal bush and the poly urethane. It's simply a poor design and one that will require regular replacement.

Annoying I am almost always right

[fezzasus]

 

 

I'd only ever fit OEM. I'm totally unconvinced about any supposed benefit to fitting anything other than just normal rubber bushes.

Agreed (i'm even starting to agree with you about the OEM radiator, having just found a leak in mine!)

Polyurethane bushes are incredibly popular but rely on a metal bush rotating in a soft material. This has a sanding motion which gets so much worse when 3rd body abrasives such as grit and rust get between the metal bush and the poly urethane. It's simply a poor design and one that will require regular replacement.

Annoying I am almost always right

 

 

Never disagreed with you with the OEM bushes. I've only spent 7 years saying i'll do it and never getting around to it... one day

[Spitfire Engineering]

The slightly thicker might explain why I couldn't get the lower wishbones back on the car however. Had to lengthen the slots by 2mm on the wishbone to chassis brackets.

 

They are only 0.6mm thicker.

 

Bent wishbone?