15 replies to this topic

[kitcar765]

Found that the bolts which hold the battery and the heater box are just turning in their holes without coming out, there seems to be another fixing between the aluminium extrusion on the bulk-head and the bolts. 

should i just ground down the bolts so they are flush and dill and tap some new holes? or is there a way of removing both fixings and repairing? 

whats inside the bulkhead before i drill into something i shouldn't.

Many thanks! sitting here with my hand cut and a sore back after removing the battery and heater box!

[fezzasus]

They're rivnuts. Cut the face off, knock them into the box section (it's where the steering rack sits0 and they'll find their way out eventually. Get some new aluminium rivnuts and a rivnut gun

[fiveoclock]

Dont buy a cheap riv nut gun. It will just break or bend

[kitcar765]

Thanks Gents!

will knock them through later today.

any ideas of the size of the riv-nut? got a link?
any recommendations of a decent riv nut gun? link?

at least it seems easier than drilling and tapping new holes.

[kitcar765]

sorry bit of reading and i found a recommendation for a riv-nut tool and some riv-nuts, cheap enough that i can just buy a few sizes to get the right one

https://www.ebay.co....ar=610135718714

https://www.ebay.co....ar=610135718714
 

[fezzasus]

the rivnuts are M6. 

 

Make sure they're aluminium or you'll cause galvanic corrosion between chassis and rivnut (the zinc coating on the steel ones will be penetrated as soon as the rivnut is torqued up)

 

https://www.ebay.co....ksid=m570.l1313

 

given the clearances in the heater compartment, i've found this tool works well:

 

https://www.ebay.co....ksid=m570.l1313

 

but can also make/use somethign like this: https://www.ebay.co....ksid=m570.l1313

[kitcar765]

yep that's the tool i bought, also bought a load of aluminium M6 riv-nuts also.

i have ground off the riv-nut heads and popped them through into the box section, leaning over does your back in! and was a bit too awkward to wear gloves with the angle grinder so my arm has been showered in sparks, safety glasses a must though!

my heater came out in several parts, its well and truly toast, don't quite get how it managed to get so smashed up in there? maybe the rust expanded and cracked it or something.

i have the Fezzasus 2.6 heater i think, fitted with a mechanical valve, so removed the dash and fitted the mechanical control wire. Couldnt get it lined up in such a way that the knob would turn correctly as indicated and allow the switch to have full movement, so cut a little but of ally out of the dash to give clearance and made sure the outside cover of the wire was held properly and not fowling. 

Questions:

1. I notice when i come to fit it (new heater), there is a cable which is no longer required? the two wires which were heading to the old heaters motor? the new motors wires head directly into the plug which is attached to the resistors? unless i'm missing something?

2. i dont need to change anything else under the dash, just that mechanical valve?

waiting for my tool, my riv-nuts and a new battery/wash bottle bracket to arrive. 

Question:

3. While im messing around is there any way i can fit some cables from the battery into the cabin so if i have to jump start, or trickel charge without having to pop the bonnet and dig around? anyone got a link to a nice aluminium plate i could maybe rivet in somewhere?

 

Edited by kitcar765, 14 July 2018 - 03:38 PM.

[Nev]

For trickle charging the battery there are 2 sensible options:

 

1. Use the cigarette lighter that is permanently hard wired into the battery (many battery chargers offer a cig lighter adapter).

2. Extend some wires out to the wheel arch and terminate them sensibly. Then if you get locked out (ie central locking has made the car hard to enter) you can charge it up without having to "break in" to the cabin.

 

Sadly it's not the first time we've heard of Fezasuss heater failures by any means.

Edited by Nev, 15 July 2018 - 05:28 AM.

[kitcar765]

was not my fez heater that failed but my original one. Although i will probably keep my old cable in case i need to put an old one back in.

the cig lighter is permanently wired into the battery? does not turn off with ignition.

well that's handy to know!, i suppose its good for trickel charging but not good enough for actually starting the car without melting wires. 

[fezzasus]

Sadly it's not the first time we've heard of Fezasuss heater failures by any means.

 

Unfortunately true, however if you weren't as selective as you are with the truth, you'd also know that I replaced all known Mk1 heaters with Mk2 at my cost, and made the mechanical control which removes the weak point from the Mk2 available at cost to anyone interested.

[kitcar765]

I got the mechanical valve.

Tom is the heater made from mild steel?

I will have to take care of it to prevent it rusting away like my original heater.

Would you ever make another batch of heaters? Maybe a deluxe 316 stainless version!

[fezzasus]

It's zinc coated steel. Can't remember the brand name. I wouldn't consider another batch of heaters now that T7Designs are selling a developed version of my mk2 heater (with regard to layout and water control). I have an idea for a completely different heater which will bypass the airflow bottle neck, but am unlikely to sell it.

 

Edited by fezzasus, 15 July 2018 - 12:28 PM.

[kitcar765]

ok so aluminium riv-nuts into the aluminium bulk-head.

What type of metal do i need for the bolts for removal in the future?

seems stainless is a big NO?

 

[fezzasus]

ok so aluminium riv-nuts into the aluminium bulk-head.

What type of metal do i need for the bolts for removal in the future?

seems stainless is a big NO?

 

 

Zinc coated mild steel is more inert. Stainless is okay if you use plenty of copper grease as it passivates the interface

[kitcar765]

used zinc coated

the riv-nut tool works a treat! was not that painful at all used aluminium riv-nuts.

Fitted my 2.6 Fezzasus heater also, along with the mechanical valve upgrade, i think i need to get some foam to wedge under the plastic fan to prevent it failing where its attached to the steel bracket? will have a look at that tomorrow

the pipe i had was a bit mashed up, so ordered some longer 76mm Dia neoprene pipe and some ebay 'trumpets' and some big enough jubilee clips, so i can get a better fitment and prevent all the air leaking.

re-fitted a new battery/washer bottle bracket, as i had to cut my last one off. 

now i need some coolant as i have pretty much spilled it all. 

[kitcar765]

Fitted some foam under the heater to keep it supported.

refilled the GM coolant.

tested and the heater goes really hot and really cold, all adjusted correctly now just need the two induction trumpets and a new bit of pipe (hurry up post-man!)

then will have a working heater for the first time in 7 years of ownership. 

next on the list is to fit sill covers onto the sills, and onto the cracked plastic instrument cover binancle