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Piston Rings Gap Direction


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#1 vadonchez

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Posted 27 October 2018 - 04:55 PM

Hi

 

I just change rods this afternoon for eagle one.

When i remove piston, I made some landmark one each ring gap in order to fit the rings in same place.

I was surprised to see that rings gap was not on same place for every piston...

 

I saw a picture on TIS that explain that first ring gap should be align with exhaust, second one on the opposite and oil scraper ring with "5" and "2" or "3"

 

mini_18102707100594776.png

 

Could somebody confirm to me that exhaust side is on 1 mark on picture?

SO i tink i have to restart tomorrow....Do you agree with me?

 

Thanks for help

 

 



#2 Exmantaa

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Posted 27 October 2018 - 05:51 PM

It does not matter if you take the intake or exhaust side for the "1" position. Point of this is that you simply distribute the rings gaps evenly for assembly. (Although I think the rings will rotate in the grooves during use...)



#3 vadonchez

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Posted 27 October 2018 - 09:38 PM

Thanks for your reply.
Somebody said to me like you but advice to not align rings with piston axes.

#4 Doctor Ed

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Posted 27 October 2018 - 10:16 PM

yep, rings constantly move, so no need to be exact, just dont have them lined up on top of each other the first time you start things. also good to avoid having gaps aligned over the pin axis
 

PISTON_RING_END_GAP_LOCATION.jpg



#5 vocky

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 09:20 AM

Wiseco instructions say to align the top main ring gaps over the gudgeon pin .....

 

https://www.google.c...KAAwAA..i&w=400



#6 fezzasus

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 09:23 AM

Saw a nice video of rings rotating in real time at one of our test labs last week. Don't worry too much about starting position. They rotate pretty quickly at low load



#7 Doctor Ed

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 11:07 AM

Stuff like this starts becoming a bit evangelical depending who you ask. Just don’t stack the gaps on top of each other and it’ll be fine

#8 siztenboots

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 11:24 AM

the gap size is more important to get right



#9 Nev

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 12:36 PM

I wonder if OEMs manually gap rings (for basic run of the mill engines) at assembly like ours? Or are they just shoved on and assumed to be correct due to predefined tolerances of the piston + ring manufacturers.



#10 fezzasus

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 03:30 PM

Or are they just shoved on and assumed to be correct due to predefined tolerances of the piston + ring manufacturers.

 

For the most part, that. Usually the tier 1 supplier is responsible for both pistons and rings so there is an expectation that they supply a fully working solution.

 

For low volume, high power output engines they're likely to have ring gaps set by hand.


Edited by fezzasus, 28 October 2018 - 03:32 PM.


#11 vadonchez

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 05:47 PM

thanks guys!!

 

This is why rings was not at same place depedning on piston number when i took them out of engine.

I took into account your experience and let them as they were.

 

I'm a bit stressed!! hope everything will be ok when i'm going to start engine....

 

Any advice for first start?

I applied engine oil on rods bearing & camshaft I'm thinking about doing turn engine without spark in order to push oil in engine

 

Something else?

 

 

thanks!

 



#12 2-20

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 09:04 PM

Did you do this with engine in car?

#13 vadonchez

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 09:56 PM

no i bought new one so engine is totally out of the car



#14 fezzasus

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 07:38 AM

thanks guys!!

 

This is why rings was not at same place depedning on piston number when i took them out of engine.

I took into account your experience and let them as they were.

 

I'm a bit stressed!! hope everything will be ok when i'm going to start engine....

 

Any advice for first start?

I applied engine oil on rods bearing & camshaft I'm thinking about doing turn engine without spark in order to push oil in engine

 

Something else?

 

 

thanks!

 

Yes, disconnect the coil pack and crank until the oil pressure light goes out. then reconnect and start



#15 vadonchez

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 07:42 AM

ok thanks fezassus 



#16 alexb

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 09:34 AM

Crank it a little longer after the oil pressure light goes out. Oil pressure light shows pressure is building, but it triggers rather low. I've got an oil pressure gauge and cranked it a little longer, before pressure really got up. Just 10-15 seconds if I remember correctly.

 

I'm in still running in my new engine, which essentially means being a bit careful. There seem to be two ways of doing it, the floor-it method and the gradual one. The first is based on the argument that the rings extend a force on the liner due to the compressed gas. So if you're not putting the engine under load, the rings will hardly bed. The idea is start the engine, warm it up and gradually go to higher and higher RPM in a couple of runs and let the engine cool in between. Full break in should be done in 30-40 km. The second method is what you used to do with new cars, start out with low RPM's, vary speed, not too low in RPM and only after some decent mileage, fully load the engine. I did it the first way, as it's more fun and JE (I have JE pistons) recommends it: https://blog.jepisto...ak-in-an-engine. Not only new pistons, but a new engine with specially made liners. For that reason, I used Millers CRO oil for the first 100 km, then changed filter and oil. Now on Mobil 1 0W-40 for the next 1000 km and will change oil and filter again and consider it ran it after that. That's probably overdoing it  :happy:

 

 



#17 Doctor Ed

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 11:42 AM

It’s not a new engine, it’s not honed, and it’s using the old rings = no run-in procedure necessary

#18 Doctor Ed

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 11:51 AM

Oh wait a sec... I missed a post

It’s a brand new crate motor??

#19 vadonchez

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 04:11 PM

Engine is a low mileage engine but not a new one.
As doctor Ed said piston & rings are not new I changed only rods and bearing for eagle one.
So I just have to crank it a little bit longer than oil pressure say and that's all.




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