43 replies to this topic

[Rosssco]

So, car not starting (SC'r). I had the clam off for a exhaust change and some other tweaks (none electrical).

 

Car started fine before putting the clam back on. Issue started once the clam was back on (probably incidental).

 

My first test drive down the road, car started fine. On test drive, started to splutter and miss badly, then cut out. Restarted, drove a little further, broke down, then wouldn't start.

 

Things I've check / changed

 

- battery is about 2 month old. Voltage a consistent 12v on my multimeter. Taken out, charged overnight. No difference

- Pump is priming (checked pressure in line through fuel line valve)

- Borrowed good starter relay (yellow one). No difference

- Changed alternator and checked it wasn't shorting on manifold

- checked earth connection on chassis. Seems fine and was never removed disturbed

- Checked all fuses. Fine.

- pulled x2/x3 connectors to ensure they were clean. Look fine (never had an issue with them)

- Cleaned battery terminals

- Fitted a -neg battery terminal isolator thing. Seems to make to no difference (in case it made dodgy connection)

- Tried jump starting from my other car. No Change

 

Current status - turn key and dash light up. All ancillary services activate like they should with a fresh battery. Fuel pump primes.

 

Press starter button. One click / light clunk and nothing. Occasional buzzing noise, although sounds like its coming from the injector area..

 

I have a used starter to try change next, but other than that, I'm out of options..

 

Anything else before the Viking funeral?

Edited by Rosssco, 12 December 2018 - 10:39 AM.

[Richard Hoogeveen]

Did you try to change out the brown relay ?

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-N950F met Tapatalk

[Rosssco]

Did you try to change out the brown relay ?

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-N950F met Tapatalk

 
Have not Richard. That's the ECU relay, but the engine should still crank either way, but it isn't.

[FLD]

Poor earth? Clicking is a sign of weak current, sounds like it should be in the battery circuit

[Rosssco]

Poor earth? Clicking is a sign of weak current, sounds like it should be in the battery circuit

 
Where is the question.. I assume the starter just earth off the block (as its connected to it), so the earth between the block / gearbox and the chassis..?

 

It was starting fine though (while static). Only thing I can think there is that earth cable was removed while I was pi$$ing about with coolant hoses, and not properly reconnected, then came loose during test drive..   

[FLD]

There's an earth cable to the chassis on mine by the oil cooler.

ETA: It's worth checking before swapping starter and other bigger jobs.

Edited by FLD, 12 December 2018 - 11:15 AM.

[Rosssco]

Think that was is ok, but tbh, I couldn't properly see down that area due to header tank and CC tank mounted above the gearbox..

[Rosssco]

This thread seems to be similar-ish issues..

 

http://www.vx220.org...ounding-points/

[Talk-torque]

Our starting issue, similar to yours, was a duff starter, but that wouldn’t explain the car stuttering and stopping. Have you checked the Loom of Doom?

[jonnyboy]

Make sure on the connector terminals on the block for the relays haven't pushed back when the relays have been pushed in and out.

[Rosssco]

Our starting issue, similar to yours, was a duff starter, but that wouldn’t explain the car stuttering and stopping. Have you checked the Loom of Doom?

 
Well my next option was to swap the starter. Its certainly easier looking to swap than an alternator (apart from the upper bolt).

 

Have checked it quickly. Never had any issues with it. Plus with ign on, I can hear the throttle working upon pedal application, and that's usually the thing that goes..

[Rosssco]

Make sure on the connector terminals on the block for the relays haven't pushed back when the relays have been pushed in and out.

 
Pretty sure I checked that, but its worth a double check.. 

[jonnyboy]

I had the coil on a fuel pump relay push out the back a few years back

[TheRealVXed]

Check the starter solenoid.  The click will be the relay that activates it, but any loss of current in the main solenoid circuit will mean the starter motor won't have enough current to crank the engine.  I would start with the earth cable to the block before replacing the whole thing...

[ICD]

Lack of fuel...it has been known....

 

..a well known hooner did everything you have done......except check there was fuel in the tank....

[Rosssco]

Check the starter solenoid.  The click will be the relay that activates it, but any loss of current in the main solenoid circuit will mean the starter motor won't have enough current to crank the engine.  I would start with the earth cable to the block before replacing the whole thing...

 
Yeah, there's a click like a little metal hammer hitting something, then nuffin.... I'll try check the earth noted. Checked the chassis earth and it was fine..

[Rosssco]

Lack of fuel...it has been known....
 
..a well known hooner did everything you have done......except check there was fuel in the tank....

 
The thought did occur to me as the level is low, but this wouldn't affect the engine cranking (which it isn't)..

[FLD]

Looks like you're into a starter swap
That top bolt isn't too bad, just use a long extension bar and you'll get it.

[Ivor]

Can you get a jump lead to the starter to see if it turns?

[Rosssco]

Looks like you're into a starter swap
That top bolt isn't too bad, just use a long extension bar and you'll get it.

 

Yep, starter replaced yesterday for an exceptionally dirty one from fleabay.

 

No change. Doing exactly the same as before. Load buzzing from (what sounds like cylinder head). And same click as before with no sign of starting.

 

Also checked:

 

- Earth from g/box to chassis

- Changed out coilpack from brand new (had bought as spare)

- Charged an old battery and swapped - no change

 

I'm clean out of ideas now. Thing has been abandoned to fill up with Scottish rain water and hopefully die until the new year, when I might summon some motivation to remove the rear clam again and check all wiring, as that's what its down to..