14 replies to this topic

[RC220]

Hi all,

 

I am trying to get my wishbones and hub carriers out for a refurb.  I have removed the split pin and the nut on the rear but wondering how to separate the hub assembly and hub carrier from the driveshafts.  Do I need to remove the boots (a circlip and what looks like a jubilee clip in the attached diagram) and then use a puller to dismantle?  I really don't want to disconnect at the gearbox end if possible.

Many thanks

Roy

 

 

 

[Zoobeef]

Soft faced mallet and give it a wack from the outside.

[martinroger]

Make sure the toe links are disconnected from the hub carrier or the wishbone mounting point first.

[RC220]

Thanks guys,

 

the toe links and lower wishbone ball joints are both disconnected so each hub assembly is hanging on the upper wishbone ball joints / hub bolts...and the driveshafts.  I do have the lower wishbone ball joints still in situ to support the assembly while I figure this bit out.  Can I just check - I do need to remove the boots as mentioned above? 

Then take the upper wishbone hub bolts out and 'persuade' off with some gentle whacks...

 

Thanks again

Roy

[Captain Vimes]

Swear at it. A lot! And loudly!

It won’t get it off but you’ll feel better for it.

[Johnboyhgt]

The boot stays on.
Put the hub nut back on until the castellated nut is flush with the thread end (this protects the thread)
Then take a block of wood and your biggest hammer and hit the end of the driveshaft as hard as you can.

Eventually the driveshaft will start to push through hub splines.

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

[martinroger]

No need to remove any boot. You could even detach the hub from the hub carrier and whack it out if am old brake disc is still attached to it, and then feed the drive shaft through the carrier hole. But doing so you run the risk of disengaging the shaft from the gearbox and damaging the differential seals, which would be a pain.

Essentially, pull outwards like a pig on the bottom of the hub carrier (where the lower wishbone ballpoint should go) and gently plastic-mallet-tap the head of the shaft. (That's what she said).

It will be very clear when the splines disengage, as they will move approximately one inch inwards. Also watch out for the big washer that is under the castle nut.

If you have an old castle nut you can also thread it almost entirely on the end of the shaft and use a ball print hammer once or twice on the nut if it is really stuck... This said, even on my yellow Submarine the splines were never THAT stuck. Ball joints to wishbones though... Another story!

[ukcat]

A cheap hub puller is usefull here. it does away with the need to use your biggest hammer. basically it attaches to the hub (some grip it, some bolt to it) then a bolt tightens onto the end of the drive shaft effectivelly pulling the hub off the splines.

Edited by ukcat, 05 March 2019 - 10:04 PM.

[Zoobeef]

Also if you put the castleated nut on backwards and screw it on until it's flush then it's an even bigger surface area to hit.

[Duncan VXR]

Laat option there tried and tested many times with a but of spray on both aides of the hub

Just replace the nut, they cost next to nothing

[pete-r]

And do yourself a favour while it's off, replace the driveshaft boots (arse of a job if it splits) and fit the 4stud hub packs so you can get some seriously light wheels on it

[Ormes]

I removed the OS using a mallet, but the NS just wasn't having it, bought and used a hub puller in the end, which required no swearing, just a few turns of a hex bolt...

 

One I bought... https://www.halfords...3-gear-puller-6

[RC220]

Hi guys,

 

thanks for all the advice.  I took Ormes advice and got the pullers from Halfords, and a bloody great big ball joint separator too.  Both rear hubs now off and wishbones out.  Start on the fronts tomorrow...

 

Roy

[Ormes]

[TheRealVXed]

Whacking the end of the driveshaft into the diff.... doesn't sound like a good idea to me.

 

Hub puller.  A few quid from halfords and is much easier on you and the car ::