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Some Vxt Jobs I Need To Do!?!


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#1 Bigt

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Posted 27 May 2019 - 07:40 PM

Evening,

So I will get a new thread up soon to document my recent purchase and the mods/work I will be doing to it along the way.

Need some advice on a few bits of possible -

The seal around the stubby aerial is broken up quite badly so thinking of removing the aerial and runner seal/seat to replace it with a new one, is there a preferred shorter version that people fit?

I would like to remove the turbo ears to give them a deep clean as pretty cruddy and nasty inside, found guides on how to fit them to NA cars but can’t seem to find any info on removing them?

The wheel arch liners need to come out, I ran my finger around the edge and there is loads of mud/soil and general debris packed up inside. Would like to take wheels off, strip the arch liners out and give it all a good clean. Are the arch liners easy to remove?

Something that I feel will be needed soon is a new clutch, the car is running Courtney Stage 2 so what are people’s general thoughts around what clutch to fit and how much should I budget for this work through someone like BOT or Plans?

Cheers

Si

#2 -Dab-of-Oppo-

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Posted 27 May 2019 - 08:03 PM

Aerial just get a generic replacement complete with seal for about £8. I’ve tried running amplified ‘bee sting’ and shark fin type aerials in the past and although they look better reception tends to suffer.

Arch liners should come our easy enough, I find it better to leave one side in place and then bend the other back on itself and sit it against the brake caliper / disc to hold it out of the way. You can safely buckle them about without causing any damage and should give you all the access you need to clear out the circa 2kg of gravel that will have collected. Shouldn’t really need to remove the grilles in the ears to clean, can access from the back and use an air line, steam cleaner or pressure spray to blow crap out.

If the clutch ain’t regularly slipping why the rush to change? If / when you do maybe take the opportunity to fit a billet flywheel for about £200. Other costs to replace will probably be about -

Fast road clutch good for 270ish bhp £165
Gearbox oil £35
slave cylinder £80
Labour £400-450

Edited by -Dab-of-Oppo-, 27 May 2019 - 08:09 PM.


#3 -Dab-of-Oppo-

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Posted 27 May 2019 - 08:16 PM

Should have said +VAT on all the above.

#4 Bigt

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Posted 27 May 2019 - 08:22 PM

Thanks for the info!

Just found a very old thread about a seller on eBay who does a replacement grommet for the aerial, based on your advice about keeping the stock aerial I think I will just order and replace the grommet as it’s only £5.50!

I didn’t realise the arch liners were so flexible, might be easier than removing them. Will have a play when wheels come off and see if I can get enough access to remove the grit and rubbish. I am guessing removing the ears isn’t easy then if you recommend just cleaning through from behind? It wasn’t so much wanting to blow stuff out but more ‘de-greasing’ the slats and surrounds to clean them up.

Clutch is slipping a bit, the bite is really high in the pedal so figure it will need doing fairly soon. Saw that there is a member Coventry way who has done quite a lot for members - not sure if he still does them?

Si

#5 Rosssco

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Posted 28 May 2019 - 02:31 AM

The wheel arches are flexible enough, just be careful with the rear liner front mounting points, as the fibreglass section is weak and can split (you often get cracks here anyway). The turbo ears are bonded in so you wouldn't want to try and remove them.

 

A decent clutch upgrade that should be suitable for a 'Stage 2' turbo is a standard / good quality C20LET clutch kit, which has standard pedal feel but will hold slightly higher torque. These are sometimes resold as a 'fast road' upgrade by various vendors, but no need to pay over the odds. 

 

Also budget for a replacement clutch release bearing / slave cylinder, as they've been known to fail after clutch replacement.



#6 Bigt

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Posted 28 May 2019 - 03:46 PM

Thanks Rosssco heads up on the finer glass mounting points is much appreciated!

I also need to sort a new windscreen surround, I have a VXR fitted with heated screen but the black is bubbling like mad and really lets the car down. From my research a new windscreen comes with a new surround is that right??

Can Autoglass be trusted to do one of these?

Si

#7 Tibbles Stryker

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Posted 28 May 2019 - 07:13 PM

Thanks Rosssco heads up on the finer glass mounting points is much appreciated!

I also need to sort a new windscreen surround, I have a VXR fitted with heated screen but the black is bubbling like mad and really lets the car down. From my research a new windscreen comes with a new surround is that right??

Can Autoglass be trusted to do one of these?

Si


Could be plastidip or something bud 👍

#8 Bigt

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Posted 28 May 2019 - 09:41 PM

I have the invoice for the job so think it’s genuine but it has gone really weird?!? Will post a pic tomorrow in daylight.

Si

#9 2-20

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Posted 28 May 2019 - 10:26 PM

You have the same bubbles on your rear spats so I think it's not genuine...

#10 Bigt

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Posted 05 June 2019 - 07:46 PM

Something else to add to the list, I noticed the front corners of the recess where the bonnet sits are collecting water and the 'bump stop' bases are going rusty, I can't see a drain hole as such, is it acceptable to drill a small hole in each corner to allow any water that collects to drain away??

 

R65mVxG.jpg

 

Cmn6vJt.jpg

 

Si



#11 The Batman

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Posted 05 June 2019 - 08:54 PM

The bump stop should be where the allen key bolt is

 

and where the bump stop is should be just a hole thumbsup



#12 Bakazan

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Posted 06 June 2019 - 06:25 AM

Thanks for the info!

Just found a very old thread about a seller on eBay who does a replacement grommet for the aerial, based on your advice about keeping the stock aerial I think I will just order and replace the grommet as it’s only £5.50!

I didn’t realise the arch liners were so flexible, might be easier than removing them. Will have a play when wheels come off and see if I can get enough access to remove the grit and rubbish. I am guessing removing the ears isn’t easy then if you recommend just cleaning through from behind? It wasn’t so much wanting to blow stuff out but more ‘de-greasing’ the slats and surrounds to clean them up.

Clutch is slipping a bit, the bite is really high in the pedal so figure it will need doing fairly soon. Saw that there is a member Coventry way who has done quite a lot for members - not sure if he still does them?

Si


Bigt,
Did the aerial seal turn up and was the right size? If so can you post the link or eBay number, mine has also disintegrated.

Cheers

#13 Bigt

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Posted 06 June 2019 - 06:54 AM

[/quote]
Bigt,
Did the aerial seal turn up and was the right size? If so can you post the link or eBay number, mine has also disintegrated.

Cheers[/quote]

It certainly did, although second time round!! Lol! Have a look at my diary thread all the details and pics of new one are in there - http://www.vx220.org...ypso-red-diary/

Si

#14 Bigt

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Posted 06 June 2019 - 03:58 PM

The bump stop should be where the allen key bolt is

and where the bump stop is should be just a hole thumbsup


That makes a lot of sense, wonder what the allen bolt is holding, will have to have a look and swap that around!

I am also missing the little disc/coin in the starter button, does anyone know of a replacement or any suggestions about replacing it?

Si

#15 oblomov

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Posted 06 June 2019 - 07:22 PM

I would like to remove the turbo ears to give them a deep clean as pretty cruddy and nasty inside, found guides on how to fit them to NA cars but can’t seem to find any info on removing them?

 

 

The louvres in the turbo ears are bonded but the ears themselves are not and are quite easy to remove if a bit fiddly.  Remove the two bolts holding the ear to the car, one facing forward in the door recess and the other in the top louvre space.  This will allow you to gently pull the ear away very slightly from the body of the car.  If you then look inside you will see there are two nuts (13mm IIRC) holding the inner part of the ears to the body work, each with a rubber washer beneath.  I use a spanner taped to a steel rule to give me the length required to slide a rachet spanner into get at the nuts to undo. If the nuts have never been undone, then care needs to be taken, and perhaps some lubrication. I had one tear the holding bolt away from the inside of the body work and had to replace and bond a new one in. There's no need to remove the nuts completely as the fitting is a pronged fork on the back of the ears and once the nuts are sufficiently loosened the ear can just be pulled out.  When the ear has been removed this reveals something quite important - the brake lines beneath in the sill which if left are prone to corrosion.  You now have access to inspect them and if necessary use some form of rust proofer on them to ensure if there is the beginning of corrosion it is halted, or alternatively if they're bad to replace the brake lines.  This area is also accesible with the middle undertray removed but viewing from above gives a better idea or second opinion on what's going on there. I removed the nuts completely and replaced with stainless steel, this with waterproof grease on the threads makes the ears much easier to remove at any time in the future.

 

Also as you mention there is no drain hole in the bonnet water channel, and I have drilled a small hole on either side to allow drainage.  After the drilling the holes I sealed the raw edges to prevent water seeping in to the fibreglass skin.
 


Edited by oblomov, 06 June 2019 - 07:26 PM.


#16 Bigt

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Posted 07 June 2019 - 11:39 AM

Thanks oblomov - most helpful!  thumbsup

 

Si






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