32 replies to this topic

[aquilaproejct]

When I asked for a second ecu locked to the car in case there was a problem 10 years down the track I was offered no discount.

[Rosssco]

When I asked for a second ecu locked to the car in case there was a problem 10 years down the track I was offered no discount.

 
Yep, could be the case.. Although I'm not looking for a second ECU, just a replacement for the original (he can keep the duff one).

 

Either way, it probably won't fix the problem anyway

 

I actually have a bunch of parts for an LSJ ECU swap, though would need to source a few bits, incl. HP Tuners..

[Exmantaa]

I can send you a pre-calibrated LSJ ecu, but sorting out your current is probably easier.

(normally the replacement for a broken ecu with OBD should cost you not the full price. That's different than having 2 working ecu's with OBD...)

 

Can you just plug in the replacement ecu to see if the buzzing stops?

[Rosssco]

I can send you a pre-calibrated LSJ ecu, but sorting out your current is probably easier.
(normally the replacement for a broken ecu with OBD should cost you not the full price. That's different than having 2 working ecu's with OBD...)
 
Can you just plug in the replacement ecu to see if the buzzing stops?

 
Yeah, that's extreme measures (plus I'm sick of wiring!), but will keep it in mind.. I do have a B207 fitted after all.

 

I've just bought a used Z22SE ECU. It's still coded / locked, but should be suitable for ignition on testing..

[Rosssco]

So I finally managed to get my hands on another Z22SE ECU (harder than you think due to the usual eBay hastle!), plugged it in, and.... the same buzzing / relay clicking noise..

 

Seems little point sending to Peter @ OBDT to flash onto another ECU and have the same issue.

 

I'm actually thinking about an engine conversion or breaking for parts if I thought I'd get decent money for it.. (although I really CBA)

[Rosssco]

Today I replaced all the earth cable, and battery terminals, plus fugged about with the fuel cut off switch, and the same results..

 

Started up ok initially (just tae gie ye hope!), then settled down to an idle. The idle then decends into mis-firing on one cyl. and a small throttle blip stalls the engine. A large throttle blip prevents the stall, and the mis-fire is not present at a 3k rpm idle.. After a couple mins idle, it will turn over, but no start, and return of the injector rail buzzing.. Same old then.!

 

Gonna fire the ECU to Peter and just get it copied over. Its another thing off the (now non-existent) list of things to change.

 

While I'm here (not that anyone's reading )

 

1) Anyone got the part number for the cut-off switch handy?

 

2) Any ideas on something temperature (or pressure) sensitive that could cause these issues? I.e. ok while cold, but not when warm

 

3) Could an external crank wheel cause issues? Its mounted on the crank pulley, and is looking a little crusty, but hardly falling to pieces..

[chris_uk]

https://www.youtube....V&index=59&t=0s

 

check the relays in the boot, strip them open and dry them out.. mine had condensation in... 

[Rosssco]

check the relays in the boot, strip them open and dry them out.. mine had condensation in...

Watched our vid Chris - it’s making the same noise as mine is from the injector area. Says it was your relays.

I have replaced the brown and grey relays (I did previously strip and inspect them). Got a loan of a yellow relay to try. Perhaps I need to replace the terminals.. Hmm

[Rosssco]

ECU checked, and looks ok. Copying over OBDT to a spare ECU in any case.

 

Today I'll check / do:

 

Starter and Alternator wiring (again) and see what voltages they're getting

Replace 3x boot relay holders (new spades connectors and new holders)

[Bargi]

How about you start pulling things out while the noise is happening and see what stops it?
Just another point if attack to emilinate stuff.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Rosssco]

How about you start pulling things out while the noise is happening and see what stops it?
Just another point if attack to emilinate stuff.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

Yep, tried this before:

 

 

I started un-plugging things to stop the buzzing. It stops when:

• All injectors removed (it will still buzz if any of the clips are in place. Checked individually)
• Throttle body plug removed
• Either X2 or X3 connectors

 

[vocky]

check the blue 'loom of doom' plug for any bad connections and also check the brown and grey (in the boot) relay terminals are not loose

[Rosssco]

check the blue 'loom of doom' plug for any bad connections and also check the brown and grey (in the boot) relay terminals are not loose

 
Thanks Neil, I have checked the X2 / X3 connectors a few times. I haven't done any resistance checks though (which is the next thing).

 

Brown and grey relays are new, and I changed the relays holders and put new spade connector terminals on every wire at the weekend.

 

Will try again once I get my ECU back.