14 replies to this topic

[Simons]

Hello, my Speedster turbo sometimes won't start, you put ignition on and nothing, the dashboard it's death...you can try again later and works fine, starts without any problem. Sometimes needs 5', 5 hours or 2 days....

I take a look at the schemes, the ignition key switch has two outputs, 15 and 15a, 15a gives power to the blower and wiper, they work fine always. So the input power from battery it's fine. I changed the ignition switch, but I still with the same problem, no power on the switch fuses and it's like you don't turn on the ignition key

My question is if there are any problematic connector or weak point harness between the ignition switch and fuse box. Or any idea

I pressed the inertia switch and looks like it won't engaged well... but I pressed with the contact on, and the dashboard still death

The diagnosis doesn't show any fault code about inmo or something

Anybody has this problem or has any clue to solve it??

My next step is to put power with a wire between the + battery and +15 wire output switch, to feed the fuses and see what happens

[Ormes]

I'd probably be checking earths.

[siztenboots]

inertia switch only cuts power to fuel system

[martinf]

I recently found that the battery terminal posts/clamps weren't gripping the battery terminal posts tightly. Try removing the washer bottle and 'CAREFULLY' try to rotate the clamps to see if they're loose - you shouldn't be able to rotate them if they're tightly gripping the battery terminals.

[Simons]

I'd probably be checking earths.

  

I think that the earths are fine, all the stuff who works by +30 , continuous positive, works fine always

inertia switch only cuts power to fuel system

 

Ok, so discarded

 

I recently found that the battery terminal posts/clamps weren't gripping the battery terminal posts tightly. Try removing the washer bottle and 'CAREFULLY' try to rotate the clamps to see if they're loose - you shouldn't be able to rotate them if they're tightly gripping the battery terminals.

Ok, tomorrow if I have time I'll check them. And I want to do the test what I wrote on my first post. But the car won't start to see if the problem is the harness between the key switch and the front fuse box.

But the the strange thing is if the harness or a connector will be lose, corroded or damaged, when you drive the car with the vibrations, bumps,...the problem will appear, but not, you can drive like hell without any problem. After that when you stop the car you are again playing in the casino's roulette

[Arno]

But the the strange thing is if the harness or a connector will be lose, corroded or damaged, when you drive the car with the vibrations, bumps,...the problem will appear, but not, you can drive like hell without any problem. After that when you stop the car you are again playing in the casino's roulette

Depends...
 

If the issue is in your battery connection or main lead(s) then you will have a problem when the engine is not running to get anything going.

 

Once the engine is running, the alternator is providing the electrical power, so any possible battery lead/connection issues no longer matter (except for voltage spikes in the system if the battery is not providing a good buffer load on the system but that's a different issue) and it will keep running fine.

 

Until you turn it off.. And then it has a big chance of not working anymore.

 

Cars are now getting to an age where wiring corrosion and crimp faults or wiring breaks will be starting to pop up more often..

 

Bye, Arno.

[Simons]

Hi Arno,

I checked, cleaned the connectors and changed the battery.

All the stuff which aren't feed by key works fine always, if the problem will be on the main leads, they also doesn't work not only the switched ones.

Yes the battery is a power reservoir, but if you have a wire or connector damage, it doesn't matter if the engine is stopped or running, the damage it's there, and this is the strange thing on my case

[siztenboots]

Here is the link to the wiring diagrams PDF file

http://www.zincprote...ng diagrams.pdf

[Simons]

Thanks mate! I downloaded from this website

https://www.speedste.../tis/index.html

On Saturday morning I'll feed +15 wire output switch and see what happens with the fuses, I'll post the results 😉

[Simons]

Well I think that I know where is the problem. The texalarm module

My car is equipped from factory with a texalarm fava52 (AV-2980), I said from factory because all the harness is intact, with the same textile tape and never touched and all had the same pile of dush...







Today the car started without problems, all fine...so I decided to think on the alarm, also I moved the harness and never change and what I said in other posts is strange has a damage harness and haven't got problems driving....the wiring diagram didn't show any cut before or after the ignition key but I observed a different alarm comportment.

When I bought the car, you open the car, ignition 2nd position, red led alarm off, push the button and fire up the engine. If you take around 10/20" to start the engine (I don't remember exactly the time) the red led turns on and cut the fuel pump, but the dash works fine. You must close/open the car with the remote control, the led turns off and then you can start the engine.



Now not, ignition key 2nd position, led off and you can wait what ever you want, the fuel pump is always working and the led off. Turn off, turn on, and the same, fuel pump working and ready to fire up. But if you turn ignition off, remove the key, wait the red led to turn on, then you put the key on 2nd position and nothing, dash death, no lights.... But if you close/open the car with the remote control, the led turns off, then you can start the engine, when it want, today wants always, other days you must wait what ever it wants.



Texalarm module works fine when you put the key on 2nd position, you can hear the inside relay, doesn't matter if the red led is on or off, the difference is led on dash death, led off dash ok all ok. Before this problem only cuts the fuel pump power not all the dash and switched fuses.

I disconnected the white plug module and the problem appeared. I don't really know if the problem is the connector, wiring, inside the main module and I won't like to open all harness to make the diagram. My car only comes with the owners manual...and a website who has everything about this alarm, you must pay to download... they want 27€ only for the wiring.

http://www.manuals.g...EXALARM FAVA 52

So if someone could help me with this, wiring, white connector pin out ( has another module on passenger feet side)...if not the first step will be check the input/output signals working fine and not, open the main module and check contact relay, maybe is a little bit burn, tight the connector pins, fit a switch who bypass the alarm to use when I have the problem,...

[Simons]

When I said that the alarm main module works fine I want to say "works fine" 😅 because I think that the problem is there

[Arno]

That looks like a dutch TNO class-III alarm system with tilt sensor. Is the car originally a dutch one?

 

Definitely 'aftermarket' (although perhaps done through an official Opel dealer during car purchase) as the Speedster/VX came with a META 99T alarm from the factory, although perhaps a (very) good installer that did a neat job instead of hacking up the original loom.

 

Possibly one thing is a major difference between your alarm and the factory META 99T.. The original alarm only was a 'noise maker' it did not cut fuel or ignition (it will happily drive/run with the alarm blaring away and the indicators blinking   )

 

The actual immobiliser function was still handled by the factory ECU and transponder in the key which will cut the engine if the transponder is not recognised.

 

A class-III dutch insurance approved system will have the following functions integrated in 1 box:

 

- starter motor cut

- fuel pump cut

- door, boot and front bonnet sensors

 

Tilt sensor and volumetric (radio/microwave) is usually done with separate modules.

 

(Dutch insurance class-IV and above add stuff like vibration sensors, tracking and proximity alarms)

 

So some additional wires may have been run from the alarm box to cut/bridge the connnections to the fuel pump and the starter motor solenoid.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Simons]

Hi Arno,
 
Yes! It's a dutch car, then goes to germany with it's 2nd owner and were I bought it, on Rees, nice place.
 




 
Nice info about this alarm pain...I think that it's class IV, it has vibration sersor, but doesn't matter...it's a big headache alarm
 
Well, I,m closing the hole...I think that it's the alarm immo. This is what happens when the failure appeared and I hit the immo with the key on 2nd possition. So I'm going to remove the alarm immo, I think that with the key car it's enought. The alarm immo is coded with the main module, I have the card key code, but I think that you must worked on texalarm 20 years ago to do it properly.

 

I can't post the youtube videos as other sites...if someone can fix them, is free
 
https://youtu.be/70obWWkjRE0

 

https://youtu.be/O_txlSmIKoY
 
I can't open the immo module because, as one paper who I read and I saw, the module is fully epoxy-filled (perfect to fix it) and the 8 wires are totally black, no colours no pin out nothing...only labeled from factory to install and then removed ( a joke to identify on the car harness ). So I'm going to separate the wires from the harness like old school, remove, multimeter, cut and weld the wires. 2 are ground, 1 goes to the main module, 1 to +15 key, 2 to cut fuel pump and another 2 to cut starter. It's not difficult, but it will be easy with coloured wires or labels...isn't easy as the picture, because there are one wire who has attach another one...I'll see the treasure when I open the harness.
 

 
And the problem started when I parked the car on the garage for around 2 weeks with the car open...something was damaged, I think the immo. We will see.

Edited by Simons, 05 November 2019 - 01:38 AM.

[Simons]

I forgot the immo pictures, and I can't edit again

 

 

[Simons]

Finally was very easy to remove it. Welded again two wires, white +12 switched and one starter button wire, feed the main module with +12v switched via orange wire and problem solved.