22 replies to this topic

[Alastair]

Since i've bought the VX I've never been happy with the brakes, and made small changes each year

 

Currently

 

• standard discs
• 4 channel ABS
• decent fluid - changed each year (after i boiled the brakes!)
• replacement hoses (std, not braided)
• Pagid RS14

I do no more than 1 or 2 track days a year, and have boiled my fluid on previous outings.  Last year i also lost my brakes when i boiled them going down an alpine pass in Italy  (driver issue i suspect, i was on them hard each corner, and should have used the engine more).

 

I've read several posts, i dont think i really need 4 pots or bigger discs.  Would grooved discs help?

 

https://www.carparts...-pair-926880011

 

I guess its time to consider sending all the calipers of to be re-furbed in case they are binding and causing heat.  

 

Thanks, 

 

Alastair 

 

 

Edited by Alastair, 09 February 2020 - 10:18 PM.

[swast4]

I use Pagid RS29 front and RS42 rear, standard flat discs. AFR fluid changed every 3 track days and braided hoses. The brakes are pretty good, no probs.

I don't think you should be boiling the brakes from road use, especially if your changing fluid every year.

I can't see grooved discs doing anything.

But please don't compare your brakes with heavily servo'd brakes on new modern cars, as has been discussed here and other forums multiple times.

Sent from my F1 using Tapatalk

[Alastair]

i've boiled them 3 times, twice on track.. only once on the road which was pretty extreme conditions i guess (35 degree heat and 3km of constant downhill switchback roads).

 

 

The early issues i had have pretty much gone (ice mode / juddery pedal and no brakes) since the 4ch upgrade, although it can still happen when the roads are wet / muddy or bumpy road etc.

[smiley]

I also kept boiling my fluids with RS14's. (on track though)

Never after switching to RC6. For me they were a gift from god.

 

[The Batman]

FYI i can now supply CL pads

[Ivor]

I tried bigger discs but they kept warping, I do have grooved discs and 4 pot calipers,

[Ivor]

FYI i can now supply CL pads

Do you post out and price please

[piwo]

pour motul rbf660 fluid and change it every year. better pads are higher fluid temperature.

[Bakazan]

I guess its time to consider sending all the calipers of to be re-furbed in case they are binding and causing heat.

Thanks,

Alastair

Presumably you could do a basic check for binding by just driving along for a bit without severe braking and then checking if any of the discs are hot?

[slindborg]

Define "Decent" fluid....

 

 

Are the pads metallic? If so, they will be dumping heat into the calipers and fluid, giving it a really hard time. I found that bog standard 5.1 was good enough for the PFB97's and some abuse, previously had ATE Blue Dot4 which was ok but manged to boil that during the bed in process for the PFB's

 

 

[smiley]

Define "Decent" fluid....

 

 

Anything from the blue section, for those to lazy to lookup ERBP values, and need a "buy this" advice.

 

 

Edited by smiley, 10 February 2020 - 09:16 AM.

[Alastair]

Thanks, 

 

Its almost time for an MOT and service, i havent changed the fluid since the last time i boiled it...  I'll make sure they some proper stuff in this time

[smiley]

Also bring a spare bottle on a track day, so you can bleed on track if needed.

That could save you some pennies when it happens in the morning.

 

 

[2-20]

In addition, you can also install calipers pistons made of steel ( regelin or BOE fab) or look for titanium pad shims...

[Extrapilot]

Is there an issue with seal compatibility with any of these listed brake fluids?

Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

[Aerodynamic]

I have used Mintex 1155 for years and been happy with them, Last year I switched t CL5+ in the fronts and they are a small improvement over the Mintex when

the brakes go extremely hot. Under cooler brakes they both feel about the same.

 

I use these together with Saab 308mm brake disc and they have been close to perfect but I feel I need a bit more.

But only time i had problem is on a track with two hard brakes close after each other when its very hot outside.

 

I will try to add brake cooling this year and hope the is enough. I never boiled my brake fluid tho I use Motul rbf 600 brake fluid.

 

Br, Per

[909]

Is there an issue with seal compatibility with any of these listed brake fluids?

Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

 

All of the above listed brake fluids are "polyglycol based brake fluids" (synthetic).  Used in almost all vehicles.  Compatible with the VX220 braking system.  

[mbes2]

My old silver VX, this kept happening to me on track, I always suspected it was the pads were creating far too much heat for the std discs to remove.

 

I installed cooling pipes from the fog lights and the issue went away (shortly afterwards fitting bell front discs as much wider cooling)

 

[swast4]

I have the brake ducts aswell and only boiled the fluid when I left the fluid in for too many track days (about 6)

Sent from my F1 using Tapatalk

[Ormes]

I have used Mintex 1155 for years and been happy with them, Last year I switched t CL5+ in the fronts and they are a small improvement over the Mintex when

the brakes go extremely hot. Under cooler brakes they both feel about the same.

 

I use these together with Saab 308mm brake disc and they have been close to perfect but I feel I need a bit more.

But only time i had problem is on a track with two hard brakes close after each other when its very hot outside.

 

I will try to add brake cooling this year and hope the is enough. I never boiled my brake fluid tho I use Motul rbf 600 brake fluid.

 

Br, Per

 

Swap to CL6.  I found a significant improvement over the 5+ albeit I've not had them on track yet.  They seem to warm up fast enough for road use!  The dust however is, erm... terrible.