12 replies to this topic

[Speedsterfromnorth]

Hi, 

 

I'm trying to start up an NA VX220 after som  modifications. 

 

I have checked all connectors and sprayed them with electronic cleaner but I still get the error codes P1515 and P1523 and the engine won't run. 

 

I got this occasionally before too. 

 

I need to mention that the writing harness was taken out, and in again. 

 

Also checked the ground on the ECU. 

 

Anybody have a clue ? 

 

Something is also making a boxing sound in the engine bay sometimes. 

 

Appreciate all help :-D 

[gertje]

is thé trothle body i think

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Edited by gertje, 25 March 2020 - 05:49 PM.

[Speedsterfromnorth]

*buzzing sound

[Speedsterfromnorth]

Before this (58mm TB) i had a 68 TB on and the same kind of errors. 

[gertje]

Obt tuner?

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[smiley]

1515 has been reported here as someone having a bad connection with the blue plug behind the header tank, and someone reported it with having a poor earthing connection near the battery.

1523 has been reported to happen when the handshake between immoboliser chip and key is lost in the ecu, requiring to be re-done with opcom.

 

I would suggest to focus on the poor connections first.

Then for the fun of it, try your other key.

 

Edited by smiley, 25 March 2020 - 06:25 PM.

[Speedsterfromnorth]

Yes, OBD Tuner 

 

I have checked the blue plug and cleaned it. 

 

 Poor earth near there battery ? 

 

I disconnected the imobiliser / alarm earlier, or is it another part ? 

 

I can try the other key as I now used the spare key. 

[smiley]

 

 Poor earth near there battery ? 

 

I disconnected the imobiliser / alarm earlier, or is it another part ? 

 

 

I don't have a picture, but he battery meets the chassis with a cable down there somewhere.

 

The handshake between the immobiler ring behind the ignition cowl, and the chip in the key is stored in the ecu.
You should have 2 in there. One for each key.
Sometimes 1 entry gets lost (usually after long cut off from battery) making the other key work, and sometimes both entries are gone, forcing you to get it reprogrammed by Opel using opcom.
 

[Speedsterfromnorth]

Ok, The battery have been off for approx. 1,5 month. 

 

I checked now and the battery clamp on the negative is pretty loose even after its tightened. Can this make the problem, then this have probably been with the other TB as well. 

 

 

 

 

 Poor earth near there battery ? 

 

I disconnected the imobiliser / alarm earlier, or is it another part ? 

 

 

I don't have a picture, but he battery meets the chassis with a cable down there somewhere.

 

The handshake between the immobiler ring behind the ignition cowl, and the chip in the key is stored in the ecu.
You should have 2 in there. One for each key.
Sometimes 1 entry gets lost (usually after long cut off from battery) making the other key work, and sometimes both entries are gone, forcing you to get it reprogrammed by Opel using opcom.
 

 

 

[FLD]

Buzzing will be a relay not getting enough juice so I'd guess at an earth or a duff battery.  Codes look like LOD which can also be duff TB or pedal pots.  Don't forget to check the tightness of the terminals in the plug as well as just sparying in some cleaner, they get looser than batmans mum.

[Speedsterfromnorth]

Hi guys, 

 

With good help from Peter (ODBtuner) i found out that the two blue wires and the TB connector was mixed. Changed those and now its running without any errors. 

 

Thanks a lot for all help :-) 

[smiley]

What 2 blue wires are those exactly?
With TB connector, you means the repinning you need to do when you switch from 58 to 68mm?

 

[iceman]

Buzzing will be a relay not getting enough juice so I'd guess at an earth or a duff battery.  Codes look like LOD which can also be duff TB or pedal pots.  Don't forget to check the tightness of the terminals in the plug as well as just sparying in some cleaner, they get looser than batmans mum.

 

Good evening.

 

I have that buzzing noise (rather than the more subdued sound of the fuel pump behind me) but rather worryingly (to my scared brain anyway,) is the missing oil light off the dash. It is an unused and new battery but fitted to replace an already dead battery and then left for a couple of months before starting. The battery seems strong, as no dash lights dim as an indication to suggest otherwise.

 

I was wondering if the oil pressure light was anything i should be loosing more sleep than usual over? (yawn)