15 replies to this topic

[gaffer1986]

Is it possible to replace the hydraulic lifters without taking the timing chain cover off and all the extra work involved with that - new bolt for crank pulley, remove engine mount, really awkward location etc. If I just remove the chain tensioner would that be enough to remove the cams?

[Johnboyhgt]

You could try bungee the pulleys up to a bar of some description to keep the tension on. Your biggest problem is if the timing jumps and you don't realise.

 

I'm presuming you are standard or stage 2 SC with standard cams ? 

 

[gaffer1986]

That was my thought. It's a forged Saab engine with ITBs but z22se head.

[2-20]

There is a tool to change cams without touching the chain cover.Very helpful to maintain your sprockets.
So, yes it's possible

[gaffer1986]

Ah, that's what that thing does on the cams.

[speedster norway]

Use this one...

https://www.ebay.com...=item5955527d63

[speedster norway]

And the work from 47:24min chapter6

[gaffer1986]

I've heard that the sprockets will still move on the pin when you disconnect them from the cams.

[speedster norway]

I've heard that the sprockets will still move on the pin when you disconnect them from the cams.

I changed the valve seals by doing so, but only loosened the chain tensioner, and took one camshaft at a time and had no problems.

[TheHood]

I could be wrong but I seem to recall Saab pulleys are not keyed so it would be a bad idea to remove them from the camshafts. If this is Vocky's old engine it's possible he may have used them to degree in the timing the way he wanted it, so worth confirming before unbolting anything.

If I'm wrong and they are z22se I'd definitely cable tie the chain to the pulleys as the procedure in the video bares very little resemblance to actually working on a real engine in a real car. 😄 (I love the way things just glide apart with no shite in the way and with no need to do a Mr Fantastic impression 😁) The chain is unlikely to jump on the bottom crank sprocket as long as you don't drop it but I think something set up with bungee chords would be more reassuring than leaving them hanging on the timing tool.

Only use genuine GM lifters - I tried to cheapskate it in the past and they just couldn't cope with high performance cams and went noisy within a few hours of running.

[gaffer1986]

Thank you. It is a Z22SE head with B207 block. I'm going to get Chris Redman to do them for me.

[gaffer1986]

Do you know the part number of genuine Z22SE lifters?

[gaffer1986]

Automega or delo tappets £110 and genuine £370. Quite the price difference for a set of 16.

[TheHood]

To save money either only do the affected ones or speak to someone like Autovaux to see if they do ones manufactured by the same company that do them for GM. That was an approach that worked with my Fiat and the parts supplier shop4parts.co .uk, maybe Autovaux operate in a similar way? But if you have no luck with that I would strongly suggest GM parts - pattern parts could be a false economy if you have to do the job again and most peoples experience of them will be when using them with a standard valve train.

[gaffer1986]

Yeah I understand that, I have double valve springs so they're under more pressure. Trouble is, if one has failed then surely more will fail soon? What brand did you fit?

[TheHood]

A fair point regarding changing them all at the same time if the car is a keeper.

I can't remember the brand, something like BGA or IVA, but I doubt they manufactured them. Pattern parts like this probably all come out of the same factory and get branded up by various companies.

Unless someone else can chime in with a brand they know works OK with stronger springs just bend over and get GM.

You can't run a VX on a fiver 😁