18 replies to this topic

[markanswrth]

Hi, I posted this on the FB group a couple of weeks ago but that's not much help for getting helpful advice and now the post has disappeard. So I'm back to good old .org for help!

 

I have a s/c eaton on dutch, pretty standard setup.

 

I took the clams off to do various work, the car would start and run fine until I put the rear clam back on and now it will not start.

 

Symptons and checks done already are:

 

 - Fuel pump doesn't prime, no power to relay.

 - Engine cranks fine

 - No spark

 - 999deg C displayed on water temp

 - no power to RaceTCS (pretty sure that the 12v is taken from the 'coil' feed)

 - Power to OBD but no signal from ECU so I cannot connect to OBD tuner.

 - No lights from the immobilser led by shifter.

 - Checked earths and have continuity.

 - Checked fuel pump cut out and this is OK. However, when ignition is on I do not get 12V through it (?)

 - Engine light on as usual on dash when ignition is turned on (does this confirm ECU is recognised?)

 - All fuses and relays seem to be fine.

 

Pretty sure that is everything so far. I was thinking initially that I damaged something when putting the clam back on (I started it fine a few hours before), but maybe it's just a coincidence now?!

 

It seems like a lot of things are not getting power but not sure why.

 

I'm starting to think that it might be the ECU or immobilser but wouldn't the light be flashing if there was an immobiliser issue

 

The LOD connectors have been replaced so don't think it's this.

 

Could it be a broken wire in the loom?

 

Any suggestions much appreciated. 

 

Cheers

 

Mark

[swast4]

Is the Afghan and immobiliser on ?

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[swast4]

Alarm, (don't know what I wrote then 🤪)

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[Johnboyhgt]

I've had similar when i mixed up the Grey and Brown relays in their holder. one has four legs and one five.

Check those first. 

[smiley]

With it starting just before the clam went on:
After the clam went back on, you fed the thick wiring and the 3 relay holder parts through the hole, re-assembled that set and put the 3 relays back in.
Do your holders still have the 3 colored stickers on them, so that you are 300% sure the relays went in the right ones?

 

[Johnboyhgt]

And for reference the alarm has no impact on starting, its literally to make a noise and nothing else.

Immobiliser fault would cause non start, but still cranking though. 

[swast4]

Yeh, I've disconnected battery before tried to start it and it won't fire. It's only later I realise the immobiliser must have kicked in, doh

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[techieboy]

Do your holders still have the 3 colored stickers on them, so that you are 300% sure the relays went in the right ones?

 

[markanswrth]

Thanks the replies guys

 

Is the Afghan and immobiliser on ?

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How do you check if the immobiliser is on? Should I be getting lights on by the shifter?

 

I've had similar when i mixed up the Grey and Brown relays in their holder. one has four legs and one five.

Check those first. 

 

Yep, checked. I don't get any power to the fuel pump at the relay, I do at the starter and ecu relay.

 

I've also checked at the wire to the relay at the LOD point and no volts there.

 

With it starting just before the clam went on:
After the clam went back on, you fed the thick wiring and the 3 relay holder parts through the hole, re-assembled that set and put the 3 relays back in.
Do your holders still have the 3 colored stickers on them, so that you are 300% sure the relays went in the right ones?

 

Yep definitely confident about this, checked with multimeter too.

 

And for reference the alarm has no impact on starting, its literally to make a noise and nothing else.

Immobiliser fault would cause non start, but still cranking though. 

 

Would you get spark when the immobiliser is on? Or does it just cut fuel?

 

 

 

I find it odd that I cannot get a connection through the OBC, makes me think there is an ecu issue. Does the immobiliser cause it to lock the ECU out?

Edited by markanswrth, 21 September 2020 - 03:47 PM.

[smiley]

Did you check your ecu ground wire?

[Johnboyhgt]

The fuel pump relay is fed from the other relay.

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[techieboy]

Thanks the replies guys

 

Is the Afghan and immobiliser on ?

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How do you check if the immobiliser is on? Should I be getting lights on by the shifter?

 

No. That's the alarm status light and has chuff all to do with the immobiliser. They're each unaware of the other.
 

Have you tried known good fuses? What about the two maxi fuses under the windscreen scuttle?

[markanswrth]

Thanks the replies guys

Is the Afghan and immobiliser on ?

Sent from my F1 using Tapatalk

How do you check if the immobiliser is on? Should I be getting lights on by the shifter?

No. That's the alarm status light and has chuff all to do with the immobiliser. They're each unaware of the other.

Have you tried known good fuses? What about the two maxi fuses under the windscreen scuttle?

OK that’s good it it’s just alarm.

No I forgot about the maxi fuses, will check them tomorrow. All other fuses are ok and I’ve put a multimeter across them to check. cheers

[markanswrth]

The fuel pump relay is fed from the other relay.

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Is it? From where? I get 12v at the starter relay but not the fuel pump....

[Zoobeef]

I take it you have no power on the white/violet wire on the fuel pump relay?

That power comes from the fuel cutoff switch.

Before that its from one of the 20a fuses in the rear.

Before that it comes from the brown ecu relay in the boot.

[Zoobeef]

The power originally comes from the 40a fuse near the wiper.

 

[Zoobeef]

The brown wire on pin 30 of the brown ecu relay is permanently live aslong as the battery is connected.

If no power there then look at the 40a fuse.

 

If there is power, then is that relay being activated?

[markanswrth]

I take it you have no power on the white/violet wire on the fuel pump relay?

That power comes from the fuel cutoff switch.

Before that its from one of the 20a fuses in the rear.

Before that it comes from the brown ecu relay in the boot.

 

 

The power originally comes from the 40a fuse near the wiper.

 

 

The brown wire on pin 30 of the brown ecu relay is permanently live aslong as the battery is connected.

If no power there then look at the 40a fuse.

 

If there is power, then is that relay being activated?

 

Really usful info thanks.

 

The massive fuses by the wiper are OK and I'm getting 12V at both of those points.

 

 

Will check the other bits later and report back

[chris_uk]

just check the chassis earth cable coming off the battery which bolts to the battery area on the pax side.