14 replies to this topic

[TheRealVXed]

I am fed up of the alternator being so close to the manifold with the supercharger connection.  For some reason (even with locktite on the thread) the nut on the back of the alternator keeps working itself loose and shorting on the manifold, killing the voltage regulator.  It's an absolute pig to drop the alternator and get at the back plus even more annoying to remove it.

 

Anyone fitted a smaller one or any other tips on this?  

[aquilaproejct]

I put some high abrasive nylon adhesive sheet and wedged it between the end of the stud and manifold.. maybe try a nylock nut too?

[chris_uk]

i mounted a little bit of 4mm rubber between the manifold and nut, never have to fear of it touching again. 

 

[FLD]

I did same as Chris.
Doesn’t help with overheating the regulator though being so close. No airflow in there!

[border]

Does anyone else have a phenolic spacer on their inlet manifold? I fitted one and put some shims of the same thickness as the spacer under the alternator/idler bracket (with longer bolts through it all to keep enough thread engaged in the block), and I've got loads of clearance on mine using the normal 100A alternator.

[TheRealVXed]

Does anyone else have a phenolic spacer on their inlet manifold? I fitted one and put some shims of the same thickness as the spacer under the alternator/idler bracket (with longer bolts through it all to keep enough thread engaged in the block), and I've got loads of clearance on mine using the normal 100A alternator.

 

 

Any chance of a picture of this or a link to the shims and spacers you used?  Be interested in creating more clearance...

 

The VR died when the alternator went open circuit so it all has to come out anyway so I can get it repaired so could look at this when reinstalling.

[chris_uk]

courtenays sell the phelonic spacer, just dont pull the paper off each side as thats the sealing gasket. 

 

think they are £20/30 from memory, been a long time since i bought mine. 

they give  atiny bit more space but will still touch the same should somthing similar happen.. 

 

i will have my engine out at some point i can take pics of how i solved it. 

its something i do on all the SC conversions i do.  

[border]

yep, I bought the phenolic spacer from Courtenays and stainless steel spacers from ebay (9.5mm thickness x M8 clearance ID) and some new M8 bolts of the same tensile strength as OEM but an additional 10mm length (think that took them to 150mm but can't remember for certain).

 

I also had to space out the inlet manifold support bracket from the block so it lined up, but I think I just used a couple of washers to achieve that as there's some wiggle room there so it didn't need spacing out the full 10mm. Ideally you'd want a phenolic spacer there, too, but that seemed like overkill!

 

I also used one of these on the battery feed for the alternator, for peace of mind in case a stray spanner falls down the gap

 

What's a good way to upload photos for free nowadays? flickr and photobucket seem to be locked down quite tight.

[chris_uk]

i use facebook of all things lol

[FLD]

Given there's no mention of the US alternator here I thought I'd bring it up.  Mounts lower, regulator is away from manifold so has some airflow etc.  generally a win situation.  The downside is I believe they have to be shipped over as they aren't specced on any UK car.

[2-20]

This ?
https://zzperformanc...rbo-swapped-lsj

[2-20]

https://www.ebay.com...t-/273034297848

[TheRealVXed]

Given there's no mention of the US alternator here I thought I'd bring it up.  Mounts lower, regulator is away from manifold so has some airflow etc.  generally a win situation.  The downside is I believe they have to be shipped over as they aren't specced on any UK car.

 

I wondered what they did in the US, but then couldn't find anything useful with a quick search. clearly wasn't using the correct American jargon!

 

My plan now however is to bolt a piece of metal on to the back of the alternator before installing it, and then rubberise the back of it.  This will move the terminal post for the wires clear of the manifold and they can then be more easily accessed and done up!  Will also be able to use a unlock nut or similar on it so that it doesn't go open circuit again as the rectifier diodes were fried by the alternator going open circuit from the wires working loose.

[FLD]

There is a secondary problem in the rectifier is so close to the manifold that there's no airflow and it gets very hot.  There's quite a failure rate on the 100A alternators which I suspect is down to this.

 

You can get a brass 90 degree adaptor for the alternator stud.  It's still a bit tight for my liking though but it's something I'm lazily looking at

[blackoctagon]

Mini-alternator modification any good?
http://www.vx220.org...tor-on-a-z22se/

I have run it for while now and it gives me all the amps i need.