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Dutch Ecu Tuning, Hints And Tips


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#1 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 13 July 2021 - 12:57 PM

Ok so rather late to the party I'm about to get started mapping my car on her new dutch setup.

 

Had a scan of the manual and it isn't totally clear so thought I'd put my hand up and ask for any hints or tips on how I should get started, pitfalls to avoid etc so I can get the most out of her.  Engine is a Vocky special, cams, rods, pistons etc with an M62 strapped on top.  Hoping she holds together :D

 



#2 Baron Von Scubadaddy

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Posted 13 July 2021 - 04:09 PM

Im just doing the very same mate but not quite the full Vocky......

 

:grouphug:



#3 TFD

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Posted 13 July 2021 - 04:14 PM

I would start to upload a m62 map from another user with about the same specs.

Set parameters to your specs and dial timing back about 2 degrees in the boost area to be safe.
Then start the selflearning non boost area <3200rpm to stsrt with. This gived you a drivable car to get around with.

Then I normaly start with a short powerrun to say 4k rpm to get a first idea of were Im at in the map.

Correct knock and fuel during multiple sessions.

Short story, but I dont know what you are exactly looking for so... let us know.

#4 smiley

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Posted 13 July 2021 - 04:38 PM

I would start to upload a m62 map from another user with about the same specs.

 

Since this was previously an ITB VX, i asume this is a fresh purchase of obdtuner.
Usually Peter will ask a gazillion questions on the current spec, and deliver a basemap that should be pretty close.

 

@Jimmy; such a basemap is set pretty conservative on timing and fuel (a bit rich)
You first start with a fueling session to get that closer to where it should be.
As that is measured via the normal lambda, aka closed loop, you are limited to this as the stock lambda is a narrow band one.
Roughly it will use the lambda info to around 3500 rpm, where the narrowband behavior ends.
For 3500 to 7000 it uses the open loop info (aka whatever is hard keyed in the ecu)
Again, Peter will have created those number relatively safe, yet slightly rich.
If you want real measured info you will have to put in a wideband sensor and run some WOT sessions.
The extra cost of the wideband is somehow eleviated by not burning unneeded fuel in the higher range.

 

After your fueling session, you will run a timing session.
The timing again is set to a safe value by Peter. The automated timing ajustment based on the run will mostly be around more safer where needed, and not setting the timing sharper.

 

That part is unfortunately a lot of manual labor to get right. 

During the timing session, the software will also log the knock on your engine.
obdtuner will not act on anything under 0.5 degree knock.
But again, lot's of manual labor doing runs and adjusting the timing in the culprit areas to get rid of knock.

With your highly customized engine, there may be a risk of false knock, that may require taken care of.

You can upload the logs you create so we can have a look where you are and what could be done.

 

Then you can start looking at finetuning and squeezing out those final numbers by more aggressive timing.
With your build engine, and a 2.9 pully, you should be able to pass 300.

Rule of thumb is to get where you want to be with the biggest pully possible.

 

Also keep in mind that when using obdtuner standard edition, Peter will have left the build in security of retardation in place on high intake temp, so you need to monitor your intake temp on track.
I assume you have converted from map to tmap on your build.
The default security retardation:
60C - 0,0 degree retard
65C - 0,5 degree retard
70C - 1,0 degree retard
75C - 1,5 degree retard
80C - 2,0 degree retard

 

Once your map is complete, you can export it, and send it to Peter to have this safety feature altered to start from 80 instead of at 65.
In obdtuner pro this option is in the software and you can do it yourself.

 

 


Edited by smiley, 13 July 2021 - 04:50 PM.


#5 Firthy

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Posted 14 July 2021 - 12:55 PM

Are you planning to track the car Jimmy?
 

If so I would seriously consider going with OBD Pro, as it’s so much easier to dial in the ignition.

 

The other benefit for Pro is water injection control. IMO WI is a very good idea at anything above stage 2, even at stage 2 my car benefits massively from it so you are future proofed from that POV as well.

 

Also don’t go above a 3.1 pulley or your IAT’s will be too hot even with water.

 

As above the best thing to do is speak to Peter he really is the man to speak to.


Edited by Firthy, 14 July 2021 - 12:58 PM.


#6 oakmere

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Posted 15 July 2021 - 12:05 PM

Peter is very approachable and has recently supplied me with a SC map based on my specs despite buying the software over 7 years ago 👍

#7 JimmyJamJerusalem

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Posted 20 July 2021 - 05:47 PM

That's great info, thanks chaps!  I'm planning to start it when I get back from holidays, watch this space :D 






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