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Removing Rear Calipers For Refurb


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#1 P11 COV

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Posted 16 August 2021 - 01:56 PM

First post for many years!!!!

 

I am going to send my rear calipers off for refurb.  I'm reasonably capable on DIY at a basic level i.e. changing discs, pads, shocks, oil, plugs etc etc

 

I would just like a little advice and pointers on removing the calipers completely as I have never done it and I have never changed bled the  brakes or changed fluid. (usually get my local garage to do it.)

 

My questions relate to removing the brake pipes from the caliper and what to do with the fluid. Am I correct in thinking the easiest way to do this is to clamp the flexible pipes to stop loss of fluid and then bleed/replace the fluid when the refurbed calipers are put back on?

 

Any other things to be aware of?

 

Any bits going to be difficult  to undo/remove - bleed nipple/brake pipe connection?

 

What about where the handbrake cable connects.

 

Appreciate any comments. Now I'm retired and have the time I'm up for trying new stuff!



#2 2-20

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Posted 16 August 2021 - 05:59 PM

Just let the flexible pipes pointing up. Prepare something to attach them.
There s not much fluid to loose from the pipes if you do like this.
More from the caliper itself.
And dont push the brake pedal.

#3 Guy182

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Posted 16 August 2021 - 06:33 PM

Hello !

(Just saw this flash up on my tapatalk notifications)

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk



#4 oblomov

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Posted 16 August 2021 - 06:36 PM

Personally I'd clamp the hoses and take off the brake fluid reservoir top and place a piece of clingfilm across or the palm of a thin rubber glove and screw the top back on. But then...

#5 FLD

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Posted 16 August 2021 - 07:55 PM

If MK is milton keynes just take it round to batman and tell him to fix it.  He's cheap.



#6 Lee37vernon

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Posted 20 August 2021 - 08:58 AM

If they're coming off Paul you just as well flush the fluid through and replace it with something decent at the same time.
With Matt tho, just give it to Joe if you're that close

#7 oblomov

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Posted 21 August 2021 - 03:11 PM

 

First post for many years!!!!
 
I am going to send my rear calipers off for refurb.  I'm reasonably capable on DIY at a basic level i.e. changing discs, pads, shocks, oil, plugs etc etc
 
I would just like a little advice and pointers on removing the calipers completely as I have never done it and I have never changed bled the  brakes or changed fluid. (usually get my local garage to do it.)
 
My questions relate to removing the brake pipes from the caliper and what to do with the fluid. Am I correct in thinking the easiest way to do this is to clamp the flexible pipes to stop loss of fluid and then bleed/replace the fluid when the refurbed calipers are put back on?
 
Any other things to be aware of?
 
Any bits going to be difficult  to undo/remove - bleed nipple/brake pipe connection?
 
What about where the handbrake cable connects.
 
Appreciate any comments. Now I'm retired and have the time I'm up for trying new stuff!

 


First of all do clamp the lines. The reservoir is higher than the pipe ends so fluid will leak and there's even the possibility of the whole reservoir draining if cap leaks hence a piece of clingfilm or a piece of rubber glove across the top before you start as the last thing you want is air to make it's way up to the ABS unit because this can cause major problems when bleeding and will require the ABS system to activate to expel it. The DIY solution if this happens is to drive the car on loose gravel and brake hard causing the ABS to trigger a number of times
So clamping the pipes helps reduce the air in the system to a minimum, as it is,there will be enough air in the new calipers to expel anyway.
To remove the handbrake cables you may have to release the cable tentioners to get the ends out of the where they fit.
Depending on how long it is since your bleed nipples were undone, they could be problematic and might need heat applied with care. Ensure you don't singe any rubber of plastic bits. If I have to heat them (on any car) I usually use a piece of metal (copper) I bend to shape, to shield anything that's vulnerable. I always fir new bleed screws but they should come with refurbished brakes anyway. The very volume of new fluid required to fill the new calipers will in itself flush most of the old fluid. I would consider this an opportunity to bleed the whole system, then, all the fluid is new. When flushing start with the longest (nearside rear) brake line, to the shortest (front offside). You can tell when new fluid is coming through because of the difference in colour between the old (dirty) and the new (clean).
I have found that a non return valve on the bleed screw is quite handy if you're doing the job yourself, these are quite quite cheap on fleabay. I also have an endoscope which connects to my phone so I can sit in the cabin, pump the brake pedal and monitor the fluid being expelled or alternatively monitor the Easybleed reservoir, but the endoscope is just a handy bit of kit that's not really neccessary. Without Easybleed someone to firmly pump the brake pedal while you monitor the bleed screw is quite helpful
Finally there is the clutch bleed screw in the engine compartment which may or may not also need bleeding but should be done if you want all new fluid.

http://www.vx220.org...h +bleed +screw


http://www.vx220.org...h +bleed +screw

They're not expensive and saves a lot of faff.

Have fun. :-)

#8 P11 COV

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Posted 22 August 2021 - 07:56 AM

Thanks Oblomov -very helpful  thumbsup



#9 sford

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Posted 23 August 2021 - 08:18 AM

If MK is milton keynes just take it round to batman and tell him to fix it.  He's cheap.

 

His prices are pretty competitive too ;) 



#10 P11 COV

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Posted 25 August 2021 - 04:49 PM

How do I remove the handbrake cable from where it is mounted to the caliper?

 

236167009_10159665379149923_686474915677


Edited by P11 COV, 25 August 2021 - 04:56 PM.


#11 P11 COV

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Posted 25 August 2021 - 05:04 PM

This bit  (sorry - went to edit first pic/post but no allowed :huh:  :huh: )

 

240598501_10159665388539923_643083007343



#12 Ivor

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Posted 25 August 2021 - 06:52 PM

There's a circlip ?

Edited by Ivor, 25 August 2021 - 06:53 PM.


#13 smiley

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Posted 25 August 2021 - 07:13 PM

Shown as from 8min 30. Looks like a simple push through.


Edited by smiley, 25 August 2021 - 07:13 PM.


#14 techieboy

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Posted 25 August 2021 - 08:10 PM

Yup, should just pull out as long as you've taken the whole cable out of the P clips on the wishbones.



#15 P11 COV

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Posted 26 August 2021 - 09:39 AM

Ah OK. Maybe it's just rusted in. It is so solid I assumed it was attached in someway.  A bit of brute force required then. Will try in a little while.

 

Thanks



#16 P11 COV

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Posted 30 August 2021 - 11:17 AM

OK - Refurbed Calipers fitted and all ok (although I'm suspicious about how good my bleeding has worked - or maybe the pads are just crap) HOWEVER,

 

The hand brake is right up to the top of it's travel and only just gripping at that point. Will not hold on a hill.

 

As I put the old pads back in I thought it would just readjust back to where it was. I pulled/realeased the handbrake a few times. It does automatically adjust as the pads wear does it not?

 

Have I missed something or is it just a case of adjusting the cable?


Edited by P11 COV, 30 August 2021 - 11:18 AM.


#17 techieboy

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Posted 30 August 2021 - 03:33 PM

Yup, you'll need to adjust the cables like so:-

 

https://www.speedste... and Adjust.pdf






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