First post for many years!!!!
I am going to send my rear calipers off for refurb. I'm reasonably capable on DIY at a basic level i.e. changing discs, pads, shocks, oil, plugs etc etc
I would just like a little advice and pointers on removing the calipers completely as I have never done it and I have never changed bled the brakes or changed fluid. (usually get my local garage to do it.)
My questions relate to removing the brake pipes from the caliper and what to do with the fluid. Am I correct in thinking the easiest way to do this is to clamp the flexible pipes to stop loss of fluid and then bleed/replace the fluid when the refurbed calipers are put back on?
Any other things to be aware of?
Any bits going to be difficult to undo/remove - bleed nipple/brake pipe connection?
What about where the handbrake cable connects.
Appreciate any comments. Now I'm retired and have the time I'm up for trying new stuff!
First of all do clamp the lines. The reservoir is higher than the pipe ends so fluid will leak and there's even the possibility of the whole reservoir draining if cap leaks hence a piece of clingfilm or a piece of rubber glove across the top before you start as the last thing you want is air to make it's way up to the ABS unit because this can cause major problems when bleeding and will require the ABS system to activate to expel it. The DIY solution if this happens is to drive the car on loose gravel and brake hard causing the ABS to trigger a number of times
So clamping the pipes helps reduce the air in the system to a minimum, as it is,there will be enough air in the new calipers to expel anyway.
To remove the handbrake cables you may have to release the cable tentioners to get the ends out of the where they fit.
Depending on how long it is since your bleed nipples were undone, they could be problematic and might need heat applied with care. Ensure you don't singe any rubber of plastic bits. If I have to heat them (on any car) I usually use a piece of metal (copper) I bend to shape, to shield anything that's vulnerable. I always fir new bleed screws but they should come with refurbished brakes anyway. The very volume of new fluid required to fill the new calipers will in itself flush most of the old fluid. I would consider this an opportunity to bleed the whole system, then, all the fluid is new. When flushing start with the longest (nearside rear) brake line, to the shortest (front offside). You can tell when new fluid is coming through because of the difference in colour between the old (dirty) and the new (clean).
I have found that a non return valve on the bleed screw is quite handy if you're doing the job yourself, these are quite quite cheap on fleabay. I also have an endoscope which connects to my phone so I can sit in the cabin, pump the brake pedal and monitor the fluid being expelled or alternatively monitor the Easybleed reservoir, but the endoscope is just a handy bit of kit that's not really neccessary. Without Easybleed someone to firmly pump the brake pedal while you monitor the bleed screw is quite helpful
Finally there is the clutch bleed screw in the engine compartment which may or may not also need bleeding but should be done if you want all new fluid.
http://www.vx220.org...h +bleed +screwhttp://www.vx220.org...h +bleed +screw
They're not expensive and saves a lot of faff.
Have fun. :-)
