But this looks good, thank you.

Vx220 Turbo Assembly Help
#41
Posted 25 April 2022 - 09:05 AM
But this looks good, thank you.
#42
Posted 25 April 2022 - 09:08 AM
It was in the guides section, but a few pages back, there are other posts but might take some digging, the topic comes up regularlyThanks, I looked under guides and tutorials and couldnt find anything.
But this looks good, thank you.
#43
Posted 03 May 2022 - 08:43 PM
Next thing.
Car have started and Turbo is smoking. I have changed the gasket for return pipie and will try again on Thursday..
But then I saw this both on Z22.se.co.uk and random internet page
Does it work? will the turbo still be cooled enough etc? Any experience?
Br, Per
#44
Posted 04 May 2022 - 06:18 AM
This depends totally on the type of turbo that's fitted.
There are 2 types of bearings used in turbo's:
- Sleeve/shell bearing
- Ball bearing
The sleeve/shell bearing turbo's work just like the crankshaft and rod bearings in an engine where oil pressure forms a film between solid surfaces and that's what makes it spin smoothly. Most OEM turbo's will be this type and it needs a full pressure and full flow oil feed as it depends on that to not make the surfaces rub together. Flow is 'automatically' limited by the bearing clearances just like inside an engine.
Aftermarket turbo's are sometimes using ball bearings though. These only require a steady oil 'drip' to the bearings and need such a restrictor to stop oil flooding the cavity where the bearings sit and pressurising the seals.
Soooo... You will first need to find out what turbo is on there. OEM or aftermarket/upgraded and if it's a sleeve bearing or ballbearing one. Usually there's codes/numbers on the center section that houses the shaft, bearings and such.
If it's a ball bearing turbo then you have to fit such a restrictor. If it's a sleeve bearing then do NOT fit a restrictor as it will starve the bearing of oil and destroy it.
Of course if the turbo seals are bad anyway then no 'external' fix is going to help. It will need to be take apart and the seals replaced. Depending on the turbo it can often be a DIY though as long as there's no play on the shaft and such.
Bye, Arno.
#45
Posted 04 May 2022 - 08:12 AM
But neither on ebay or on th Z22.se forum its mentioned anything else then OE turbo.
Anyway I belive its an OE turbo in this speedster
And not an aftermarket one.
Thank you Arno.
Br, Per
This depends totally on the type of turbo that's fitted.
There are 2 types of bearings used in turbo's:The sleeve/shell bearing turbo's work just like the crankshaft and rod bearings in an engine where oil pressure forms a film between solid surfaces and that's what makes it spin smoothly. Most OEM turbo's will be this type and it needs a full pressure and full flow oil feed as it depends on that to not make the surfaces rub together. Flow is 'automatically' limited by the bearing clearances just like inside an engine.
- Sleeve/shell bearing
- Ball bearing
Aftermarket turbo's are sometimes using ball bearings though. These only require a steady oil 'drip' to the bearings and need such a restrictor to stop oil flooding the cavity where the bearings sit and pressurising the seals.
Soooo... You will first need to find out what turbo is on there. OEM or aftermarket/upgraded and if it's a sleeve bearing or ballbearing one. Usually there's codes/numbers on the center section that houses the shaft, bearings and such.
If it's a ball bearing turbo then you have to fit such a restrictor. If it's a sleeve bearing then do NOT fit a restrictor as it will starve the bearing of oil and destroy it.
Of course if the turbo seals are bad anyway then no 'external' fix is going to help. It will need to be take apart and the seals replaced. Depending on the turbo it can often be a DIY though as long as there's no play on the shaft and such.
Bye, Arno.
#46
Posted 18 May 2022 - 07:35 PM
Evening, new day new problems. :-)
Well It´s not super rmuch left with the car and I am about to assemble it.
I assembled the Garw display, when first plug it in its dark, when starting the car it show the engine RPM and such things.
But when I turn the car of it shows battery voltage, and keeps showing battery voltage for atleast a few minutes, till I loose patience and unplug it.
Anyone knows what the issue can be?
The other thing, I need some inspiration for.
The car have a pro alloy charge cooler system. But I don´t know where to locate the pump for it, it´s just in the way.
Anyone have an idea?
Thank you.
Per
#47
Posted 21 May 2022 - 06:20 PM
Hopefully I will test drive this car tomorrow, but I don´t know where this connector is going?
Anyone? It´s purple and it´s going to the loom with the connectors with the wires going to the clam.
Br, Per
#48
Posted 22 May 2022 - 08:17 AM
To answer my own question.
I think this connector is going to this button.
'
Thanks, Per
Hopefully I will test drive this car tomorrow, but I don´t know where this connector is going?
Anyone? It´s purple and it´s going to the loom with the connectors with the wires going to the clam.
Br, Per
#49
Posted 25 May 2022 - 06:27 AM
That's the emergency unlock button for the central locking when the normal battery is dead/discharged.
Only works if the small extra battery is installed (and charged) and when pressed it gives some (temporary) power to the central locking so you can unlock the car with the remote.
On most cars it doesn't work anyway as the small battery is never changed and is dead too
Bye, Arno.
#50
Posted 26 May 2022 - 09:15 AM
It have been test driven and works fine except
It seems like lambda sensor is broken.
I also need some pmugs for fuel lines in engine compartment.
Br, Per
That's the emergency unlock button for the central locking when the normal battery is dead/discharged.
Only works if the small extra battery is installed (and charged) and when pressed it gives some (temporary) power to the central locking so you can unlock the car with the remote.
On most cars it doesn't work anyway as the small battery is never changed and is dead too
Bye, Arno.
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