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Buying A Vxt


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#1 jimbob

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Posted 04 September 2005 - 10:12 PM

I'm not in the market yet but unlike the past, I SAVE for stuff now. Find I enjoy it more. Anyway, when buying a vxt 2nd hand what should you look out for AND what options should it have e.g. Thorney said sound deadening was a good idea - Did most cars get this?

#2 Britney

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Posted 22 June 2006 - 12:47 PM

I'm not in the market yet but unlike the past, I SAVE for stuff now. Find I enjoy it more.

Anyway, when buying a vxt 2nd hand what should you look out for AND what options should it
have e.g. Thorney said sound deadening was a good idea - Did most cars get this?


I'd quite like to know the arnswer to this. I am thinking of trading in my 350z so my hubby can have a VXT and I can have a Corsa as a run around. I have looked through the useful links thread but none of it means much to me so I am hoping someone can point me in the direction of a list of things to look for.

The last thing I want to do is trade by beautiful Zed for something un-reliable. I have to say though myself and my husband test drove a VXT about 4 years ago and it was great fun.

I briefly read something on here about a water ingress kit. Should all VX's have one?

Many Thanks in advance for any replies.

Laura
350Z GT AZURE
EX RACING Puma #275

#3 VIX

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Posted 22 June 2006 - 01:02 PM

when buying a vxt 2nd hand what should you look out for

Fast moving NA's! :P
Good luck!
chinky chinky

#4 jimbob

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Posted 22 June 2006 - 10:24 PM

I lied my dear and got one on the never never! Ear u go...complied from this site Bodywork ... look closely for splits/cracks and bad resprays. Some stonechips are normal and unavoidable...be wary if it is TOO clean Wheels ... they seem to mark easily but nice if they're in good nick Tyres ... fresh ones are a bonus as they're not super cheap to replace Trim ... make sure this is in good nick, VX warranty doesn't cover broken trim in years 2&3, window mechs are a weak point - test them! Engine ... warm it up, check it gets up to temp and the fan kicks in. Check coolant / oil levels...if they're spot on it's a sign of a good owner Service history ... done at correct intervals and fully stamped. Low mileage examples are even more important to keep serviced reguarly. It's 10,000 miles or 1 year - whichever is sooner. Even if the owner only does 2k pa it needs servicing every 12 months regardless. ...after all that if you're still keen GET A FULL CAR DATA CHECK DONE - they're are loads of Cat C/Ds out there with owners telling porkies about them - I discovered 2 when I was looking, nearly bought one !!! Other weak points I've discovered ... all warranty jobs though - Headlight internals corrode - Coolant header tank reservoir return feed splits - Alternator belt slips and needs modified pulley The VXT also a water splash guard fitted underneath the engine cover (stops water getting into the spark plug holes) on later models, you can get this retrofitted FOC but very worthwhile doing if it's ever going to get rained on. HTH and good luck finding what you want A What To Look For On A Used VX220 Wheel nut locky thingy All recall work has been done Logbook and service history Tyre inflator aerosol thingy Stereo code! Alarm code? Is there such a thing? Spare key GEO If it has a hardtop, presumably that will be fitted (as you certainly can't take it with you any other way, can you GM? ). That means that the soft top (comprising the main part, two placcy supporting rods, softop fitting instruction laminated sheet) all in a black draw-string sack should be in the boot or on the little shelf behind the seats. Furthermore, the hardtop fitting guide laminated sheet and the Torx tool to fit/remove the top should be in a big, black open-out-flat, velcro'd bag for the hardtop and in the boot too. Would be rather expensive if you had to buy these separately. Oh, if the weather is grim, you might want to take a cloth to wipe mist of the windows, etc. too – you'll be pre-occupied enough without the worry of coping with misting-up glass. Also. if the weather is clear and bright and you're going to be travelling west in the late afternoon, take some sunglasses. Good luck! (rear) check the condition of the expansion bottle (rear) any water in the boot (rear) check plugs/dis pack for water ingress (rear) general bits and bobs (front) level/colour of brake fluid (front) radiator condition (front) condition of perhaps perished hydraulic pipes (known issues here) generally I'd have a good nosy at the brakes too...not expensive, but they might need replacing Check that all tyres are the same code / brand Screen washer bottle works Check the hydraulic hoses ...directly around the servo...exposed to UV they do seem to perish bi-annually wobbly drivers seat engine mounts soft top cables (if its not fitted, fit it) exhaust heat shield windows work smoothly Btw, the grin all the way home can't be helped. Even after years, it's difficult to control! Chassis number - plate at the bottom of the dash on the passenger side, viewable from outside through the windscreen. - sticker near the door catch (drivers side) - stamped onto the chassis, if you look through the drivers side front wheel Boot/engine cover release - down behind the drivers seat, reach behind and to your right if you are sat in the seat Engine bay - you can see the coolant level easily (should be at the seam on the bottle once warm) - the dipstick has a yellow end on it so fairly easy to find. Front bay - reach down into the passenger footwell and under the dash is the release. Make sure you pull it towards the passenger side of the car, and not up towards you if you are sat in the seat (easier to stand outside and reach in for this one) otherwise it will probably pop off in your hand Stone chips - be prepared for a few on the front clam, especially on the older models. Windows - gaps between the window and door seals can be adjusted reasonably easily. - later model NA's should have the upgraded Turbo window seals. Other - confirm all service stamps and service history - should have had a service at 1,000 miles then 10,000 mile services since then every 12 months, and maybe additional optional oil changes - photos of any existing damage (big stone chips, scratches, damaged panels) QUESTIONS TO ASK - What is the vehicle build number? (the last 4 digits of the VIN) - you will need this for HPI Check plus also to investigate some car history on the website. - Have you had the car in for the Vauxhall safety recalls for ABS and airbag? - Have you had the car in for any warranty work, for leaks or anything else? Paint bubbles on clam? - Any trackday use? - What condition is the soft top in? - What condition is the hard top in? (IF SOLD WITH ONE) - Do the boot release and bonnet release work with no problems? - Do the heater controls work fully? (e.g. rotate smoothly) - Is the heater effective? Ask if the 'Sock mod' is done (stops flies and stones from being blown into the drivers face!) - How much tread left on the rear tyres? Front tyres? - Is there any damage / wear / tears on drivers seat? (e.g. they wear easily) - Do the drivers seat runners have any play in them, e.g. does the seat rock/move under acceleration, cornering, etc.? - Does the radiator fan work? What temperature does it kick in at? - Do you have the locking wheel nut key (IMPORTANT)? - Can you give the dates, mileage and locations of servicing? - Can you confirm the length of warranty remaining? (IF ANY) - Does the vehicle have any accident history or outstanding finance? - Who was the previous owner? Was it previously a demonstrator? - Number of previous owners? - Full Vauxhall Service History during the warranty period? - Garaged regularly?

#5 PaulS

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Posted 23 June 2006 - 06:02 PM

Very good list

#6 LazyDonkey

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Posted 23 June 2006 - 06:11 PM

Good advice. However don't get too hung up on the track use thing - thats what the car was designed for and most owners who track their cars are VERY particular and fussy with it. I'd rather buy a tracked car from here with a dedicated owner than a sunday car from autotrader. Best advice is to tell us where you are and go meet an owner............the cars aren't for everyone :blink:

#7 brucevxt

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Posted 24 June 2006 - 12:34 AM

"Even if the owner only does 2k pa it needs servicing every 12 months regardless." As a mechanic - who actually believes this - and why do you think it's true?

#8 Richy

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Posted 24 June 2006 - 08:42 AM

[quote]name='Britney' date='Jun 22 2006, 13:47 ' post='474060']

I am thinking of trading in my 350z so my hubby can have a VXT and I can have a Corsa as a run around.

Laura
350Z GT AZURE
EX RACING Puma #275[/quote]

Wow Imnotworthy are all the women in your family this generous :blink:


Got any sisters? :) :)

#9 bigbadben

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 02:47 PM

the dipstick has a yellow end on it so fairly easy to find.


lies... :P








its a PITA to get at and check the level!

* btw, its on the driver's side between the engine and the bulkhead!

- Do the drivers seat runners have any play in them, e.g. does the seat rock/move under acceleration, cornering, etc.?


erm, IME most VX driver's seats move *a bit* and squeak and creak during acceleration and cornering!

Edited by bigbadben, 07 September 2006 - 02:50 PM.


#10 oldminiclub

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 06:07 PM


I'm not in the market yet but unlike the past, I SAVE for stuff now. Find I enjoy it more.

Anyway, when buying a vxt 2nd hand what should you look out for AND what options should it
have e.g. Thorney said sound deadening was a good idea - Did most cars get this?


I'd quite like to know the arnswer to this. I am thinking of trading in my 350z so my hubby can have a VXT and I can have a Corsa as a run around. I have looked through the useful links thread but none of it means much to me so I am hoping someone can point me in the direction of a list of things to look for.

The last thing I want to do is trade by beautiful Zed for something un-reliable. I have to say though myself and my husband test drove a VXT about 4 years ago and it was great fun.

I briefly read something on here about a water ingress kit. Should all VX's have one?

Many Thanks in advance for any replies.

Laura
350Z GT AZURE
EX RACING Puma #275


I've got a VXT and a Corsa as a run-around, the turbo is a great car but a 350Z is pretty damn nice too and I would probably say likely to be more reliable so its a close call whether to trade in or not.

#11 johnaachen

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 09:36 PM

A really excellent list that well done. :tt: here is my advice.....long but worth reading i think as i have learnt the hard way!!!1! I bought my car in January and didnt take people's advice about getting one with the original warranty remaining. I bought one with NetworkQ instead which as it turns out is just as good. Thank fcuk I did! Maybe I was unlucky but my car seems to have had ALL the niggles that other people talk about. I would have been really stuck without the NetworkQ and am already starting to dread January when it expires! They have all been only minor things like damp plugs and a squeaky fuel pump, coolant header tank etc but I certainly wouldnt have been able to afford all the work that has been done on the car myself. Also try and find out if the "remedies" not recalls have been done...I think these are the water cover for plugs and the idler pulley. Mine hadnt and as a result when Vxl first got their hands on the car they kept it for 2 weeks to get these things done. Another thing i would avoid is to buy from a garage thats nowhere near you....funny piece of advice I know but bear with me! i live in Brighton and I bought mine from a dealership near Skegness some 4 hours away ( right car, right price, impatience etc etc!). the problem is when i want to get Network Q work done at my local Vxl dealer they call it an "away claim" which seems to take a little longer to get approved or the garage I go to is just a bit rubbish (actually let me correct that - the garage i USED to go to as i wont go there anymore as i am sick to death of their bad service....and i wont mention their name as in our last conversation at teh weekend i mentioned to the manager about the unpopularity of his garage on this site and he enquired about becoming a member.... :o ) so get from a garage thats near to you and if you dont make sure that there is a Vxl dealership with a VX trained monkey near you...again I assumed that EVERY Vxl garage woul dbe able to do the work....this is NOT the case.....meaning a 30 mile drive to Stevens of Crawley if I wanted work to be done....ooops did I just mention Stevens of Crawley?! On a more positive note my car doesn't leak, I have ALL the optional extras eg stereo upgrade, central locking, foot rest, mats, hard top, good looking owner etc etc etc and just last night walking away from the car after 8 months of ownership I stopped, turned around and walked back to it to look at it again.....I love my little car soooo much! poof So make sure you get a car with warranty remaining or NetworkQ...do NOT assume that niggles will have been sorted by previous owner like I expected!!!

#12 jimbob

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 10:20 PM

These cars are amazing for the money. Went for a daft 50 mile hoon tonight for no reason with the roof off. My stage 1 just cruises past everything, easy as pie. Mintex 1144's mean I have confidence scrubbing off speed now. What is more fund for £15k??????

#13 jimbob

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Posted 11 October 2006 - 08:19 PM

If anyone is thinking of buying a VXT - just do it you silly auditory digital Auditory Digital moron

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED :P :P

Edited by jimbob, 11 October 2006 - 08:20 PM.





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