15 replies to this topic

[tomcoombs]

Engine ticking a bit and I think it's time for an oil change. (Having read oilmans threads, I will go for 0w-40 halfords stuff (34 quid for 5L, job done (assume makes do not matter? )

Having just spent 350 quid at VXL on a new alarm (Do not get me started, I want to do it myself to save cash)

Having read the threads on oil (Mainly oilman again, nice one) I can guess that you take the metal thing off and unscrew the bolt thing (all in pic below)

Could somebody fill me in, step by step what to do and what tools our needed the change all the oil and the oil filter, should I do anything else while in there. I have a pit in my garage that is calling out to my petrol-head instinct to use for this, please help :-)

I might be due a on this, but what the hell

[M3 BFG]

1. Pick up the phone and call either TMS or Courtenay depending on who's closest. 2. Drive your car there. 3. Wait. 4. Drive back. Sorry, bad sense of humour I know

[tomcoombs]

Kick a guy when hes down why don't you :-) Here is a good one - but not VX based : www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/oil-change_pt__1.htm Is there a Hynes manual for a VXT? T

[oblomov]

Changing the oil and filter is a very simple job. From memory:- You need the correct fitting key for the sump plug. Can't remember what it is, torx or something and also an oil filter removing tool. Wear rubber/latex gloves. 1. Warm the engine up to running temperature, and turn off. 2. Jack up car and remove offside rear wheel. 3. Lower car on jack until level as if on all wheels (place support under suspension wishbone) 4. With a suitable receptacle ready to catch the oil, unscrew sump plug. Because of limited access you may have to coordinate the plug coming off and quickly shoving the oil receptacle in place. Paper on the floor will help catch any spillage. This is an awkward scrabbling about in a confined space with your arm extended job. Remember the oil will be very hot so be carefull not to let it get on your hands and burn you. Leave the oil to completely drain from sump for about ten minutes. The oil filter is behind the suspension upright. 5. Cover area around/beneath oil filter with newspaper to catch drips and remove filter. You may need a suitable tool to shift it initially but after that it can be screwed off by hand. Quite a lot of oil will spill from the filter so make sure you have done 5 well and also a large wodge of kitchen towel held directly beneath as you unscrew helps absorb oil rather than letting it run on the paper. 6. Clean and replace sump plug securely. Personally I always run a couple of turns of PTFE tape around the copper washer at the base of any sump plug to ensure no leaks, as theoretically that sealing washer is supposed to be replaced each time. 7. Take new oil filter, smear the rubber sealing washer with fresh oil, and screw on until firmly hand tight. DO NOT overtighten. Remove paper masking. 8. Pour new oil in through the filler cap at the top of the engine. Use a funnel and paper to avoid spills and do it slowly or it may overspill. Check the dipstick regularly to see the level of the new oil remembering it takes a while for the oil to flow down to the sump. As you get closer to the maximum level on the dipstick add correspondingly less oil until the required level is reached. 9. Check no oil is leaking from the sump plug or oil filter. 10. Replace wheel and start engine to circulate new oil. Leave on tick over and gain check for oil leaks. The oil level will drop slightly by the amount required to fill the new filter. 11.Correctly dispose of the old oil and filter. That's it I think.

Edited by oblomov, 29 June 2006 - 11:34 AM.

[RichH]

Roughly how much oil is needed?

[vee ex]

Hmmm Oblomov, could you be a little more detailed do you think.....

[Geebo]

Roughly how much oil is needed?

Says for Turbo 4.5L in my handbook.

NA 5.5L.

[RichH]

ta

[paulf-cam]

Engine ticking a bit and I think it's time for an oil change. (Having read oilmans threads, I will go for 0w-40 halfords stuff (34 quid for 5L, job done (assume makes do not matter? )

Yes, makes do matter a lot!

I beleive oil man recommends Royal purple fully synthetic - or at least he does on the rx7 forums!

Cheers, Paul.

[VXT Tim]

My turbo took 4l exactly to fill back up

[tomcoombs]

Looking at the pic above, if I turn the oil bolt, won't I get loads of oil on top of that metal cover thing??? Am I meant to take that off? If so, how is it done, what tools do I use?

[VXT Tim]

The sump plug (aka oil bolt) will need to be turned anti clockwise. No oil will go on the undertray (aka metal cover thing) Please don't take this the wrong way but are you sure you want to do this!

Edited by VXT Tim, 29 June 2006 - 01:24 PM.

[tomcoombs]

Not any risks are there? Esp related to not knowing terms? :-)

Edited by tomcoombs, 29 June 2006 - 01:39 PM.

[VXT Tim]

True. Make sure you put the "oil bolt" back in before you start to top it back up with oil

[XXX]

Make sure you put the "oil bolt" back in before you start to top it back up with oil

Good call... I did my own oil change many moons ago (an old Vauhall Viva, I recall) and wondered why oil was not registering on dipstick as I poured away.... Doh!

[oblomov]

Not any risks are there? Esp related to not knowing terms? :-)

There's always a risk. but then unless you do something for the first time you won't learn. It's not rocket science, which is why grease monkeys are grease monkeys and not brain surgeons.

Hmmm Oblomov, could you be a little more detailed do you think.....

Yes and make sure you have a good breakfast before hand and wear clean trolleys.