156 replies to this topic

[manus]

I think the pulse is indeed 40 ......Trial and error I guess. Took a while but mine are spot on now.
I can send you my settings file if you PM me.

Thats interesting I'd like to try that, have sent a PM with my email address.

I have sent you the file.

I should just mention that I am on Speedlines and A048s.

I use a pulse setting of 30 per revolution on all wheels. But I've set the wheel diameter to 601mm front and 634mm back for the Yokohama 048's 16/17" setup. The reading at the digital adjuster corresponds to the cars speed inidication.
Finding or calculating your wheel diameter shouldn't be a problem.

[Buchos]

I have sent you the file.

I should just mention that I am on Speedlines and A048s.

The setup file installed OK . I'm running 17/16 TD's with 888's so should be fairly similar.

Edited by Buchos, 01 January 2008 - 02:55 PM.

[danger7]

The racelogic system is great provided you're ECU doesn't detect a hard engine cut, at which point you'll go onto two or three cylinders (The ECU is detecting for misfires so when the traction control cuts the cylinders the ECU thinks its a failure so it cuts the injector to save against cylinder damage). No problem switch the engine off and restart and the ECU resets, however you'll have to go to a Vauxhall garage to have the fault code removed which is just a reset on the comm. Its only a problem when youre doing track days with very tight hairpins I found.

You can reprogramme the ECU to stop the detection altogether but i got round it by adjusting the levels.

Has anyone else experiened similar problems? and would fitting the VXR wheel sensors help?

Cheers
Ian

I've experienced the same problems. (Only on the circuit.) I have reprogrammed the ECU not to detect misfires anymore by increasing the lower limit up to 9999 RPM. (lower limit is there for the engine to stop/start)
I find it very dangerous when this 'safety program' cuts in suddenly and your car drops from 350BHP to 50 and you have no time to explain to the cars chasing behind you....

I've had the same work done, it is dangerous and its a good point anyone doing a track day with the Racelogic TC fitted should be aware that if a hard cuts detected you'll lose power with the possibility of someone up yer chuff before you can do anything about it.



Cheers
Ian

[rik]

vxr36's settings didnt work for me. I'll try manus wheel diamter things tomorrow. My car is actually feeling quite weird at the moment, I'm sensing quite a lot of feedback through the steering/my arse that feels wrong. It could just be the fact that it's quite windy today and I was using the CG Lock that I got for christmas though :shrug:

[Guy182]

id appreciate a guide/pics to see where youv einstalled your ECU/chopped into the loom etc..

[Buchos]

id appreciate a guide/pics to see where youv einstalled your ECU/chopped into the loom etc..

I joined into the injector wires inside the plastic rail above the injectors. This made them easy to identify, and the connections are nice and dry in there. I soldered and heat shrunk them and brought them out with the existing injector cables (see top right pic at beginning of thread). It also means they can be soldered back together with no visible wire 'repairs' on the loom.

The control unit is mounted under the dash, its easier to put in the boot, but if you have the digital adjuster there are a LOT of wires to get to the front of the car.

I'll take some pics over the weekend and post them here, though I doubt two of these systems are installed the same in any vx.

[Guy182]

was the controller a PITA to do?? mail'AT'guysleeman.co.uk id apprecate any pics you have

[Buchos]

was the controller a PITA to do??

mail'AT'guysleeman.co.uk id apprecate any pics you have

The standard adjuster only has 12v and a couple of data wires gong to it, the Digi Adjuster also uses the 8pin plug that you normally attach to the PC/laptop. No real problem to fit it just plugs in and goes.

With the Digi Adjuster at the front and the TC controller eg. in the boot, you need to bring the ABS connections, standard controller wires, diagnostic/laptop wires from the back to the front of the VX.

My thinking was, to minimise the number and all the different types of wires I had to get to the front, I would mount the TC Controller under the dash with velcro, picking up the ABS signals, RPM, Digi Adjuster etc. close to it and bring only the injector wires (which are straight DC, no data to get corrupted) from the back.

The laptop plug was simply popped though the big rubber cable gland beside the controller into the bonnet area along with the corresponding Digi Adjuster plug for easy access.

It works fine, but its personal preference how you route the wires.

[Guy182]

so thats what you did?? mounting in the cabin sounds a good idea. what about mounting under the front 'bonnet'? or is it too exposed to weather. where did you get your ignition switched 12v supply from as it says it needs to not switch off when you crank the car.. the stereo switches off when you crank... where did you splice into the RPM wire? behind the dials? or in the loom in the dash. cheers

Edited by Guy182, 18 January 2008 - 01:20 PM.

[Buchos]

so thats what you did??
mounting in the cabin sounds a good idea. what about mounting under the front 'bonnet'? or is it too exposed to weather.

where did you get your ignition switched 12v supply from as it says it needs to not switch off when you crank the car.. the stereo switches off when you crank...

where did you splice into the RPM wire? behind the dials? or in the loom in the dash.


cheers

I started mounting the TC controller under the bonnet, but it isn't the most water resistant thing I've ever seen, plus there is a big recess above the passengers feet with loads of room for the connections, as a bonus there is a cable route beside the controller to the bonnet for the ABS and to the dash for the rest. (Have a coat hangar handy for getting the wires through )

My stereo does not go off when cranking as whoever fitted it hasn't wired it to the 'accessory' position, but to the 'engine on' position of the ignition key so I used that (hadn't thought of that till now actually!) finding 12v is the easy bit anyway.

I took the RPM signal from the dash. It was mentioned here that this may not be as clean, but I put a scope on it and the wave was just a clean as the one at the ECU in the engine bay.

[Guy182]

ok cheers, think ive got it.. so clocks out for the RPM (and potentially a switched 12v) if youve got an oscilliscope im guessing you're an electronics person anyway?

[Buchos]

so clocks out for the RPM (and potentially a switched 12v)

Dash/clocks same area, its the black and white wire going into the back of the clocks I used.

I can work the 'autorange' button on the scope, feck knows what all those other buttons do (I built control panels many years ago, so rest assured all my electrical connections and cable ratings are far better than they need to be.)

Edited by Buchos, 18 January 2008 - 01:58 PM.

[mandarinvx]

There are both switched and non-switched feeds to the head unit (to maintain memory pre-sets)

[Guy182]

mandarin.. unfortunately it needs a switched live that also stays on during the engine cranking the switched live of my Headunit switches off during cranking?

[mandarinvx]

mandarin.. unfortunately it needs a switched live that also stays on during the engine cranking

the switched live of my Headunit switches off during cranking?

my headunit stays on whilst cranking (but will not turn on without the key being in the ignition), maybe I've wired up wrong - does yours still maintain radio stations you've set

[Buchos]

mandarin.. unfortunately it needs a switched live that also stays on during the engine cranking

the switched live of my Headunit switches off during cranking?

My head unit is the same as Mandarins then, that 2 to 1 so ours must be right


You'll get all three connections if you follow the wires from the back of the ignition switch.

1. 12v from battery always on, usually red
2. 12v accessory position, cuts out when cranking, usually yellow
3. 12v ignition, powers all the engine bits, usually black

(colors are what all other cars use, not sure about the VX as I don't bring it into the office with me (yet))

[Guy182]

mandarin.. unfortunately it needs a switched live that also stays on during the engine cranking

the switched live of my Headunit switches off during cranking?

my headunit stays on whilst cranking (but will not turn on without the key being in the ignition), maybe I've wired up wrong - does yours still maintain radio stations you've set

actually.. i'll go check it then!most cars switch off during cranking. havent driven the vx in ages ha

yeah it retains pre sets fine.

[Guy182]

mine turns off... so looks like im going to need to get to the ignition barrel.

[snoopstah]

mine turns off...

so looks like im going to need to get to the ignition barrel.

Have you checked it with an oscilloscope (or even just a multimeter)?

I'd suspect your headunit is just a little sensitive to voltage, and/or your battery is getting on a bit, and that the voltage is merely dipping below 12v when the engine cranks (causing the headunit to cut out), rather than the switched live actually being disconnected when the engine is cranked.

My headunit doesn't lose power when I crank the engine, although it does see a noticeable voltage drop.

Of course, there's no guarantee that each car is wired up the same way

[Guy182]

mine turns off...

so looks like im going to need to get to the ignition barrel.

Have you checked it with an oscilloscope (or even just a multimeter)?

I'd suspect your headunit is just a little sensitive to voltage, and/or your battery is getting on a bit, and that the voltage is merely dipping below 12v when the engine cranks (causing the headunit to cut out), rather than the switched live actually being disconnected when the engine is cranked.

My headunit doesn't lose power when I crank the engine, although it does see a noticeable voltage drop.

Of course, there's no guarantee that each car is wired up the same way

i'll double check when the TC arrives.. the headunit is an alpine one that chucks out a bit of power so maybe it just sees a drop. have to check.