22 replies to this topic

[KDC]

All, I use a VX220 Turbo with Pagid RS14s at the front for 100% track use. The car had a Thorney Stage 2 remap but have suffered warped brake discs despite doing cooling laps after all my track time. Does anyone know of a brake cooling kit that can be added to the VX that does not suffer the risk of snapping off during tracks days. I have seen the one sold by Thorney and it looks like it clips onto the control arms but probably will snap off on teh track. I need something a little more secure !! I am running standard VX discs and calipers. I have spoken with Thorney and the do not feel the upgraded disks for use with teh standard calipers will actually help. At £650 I thought it was good advice and they felt it would be waste of money if heat is my main issue.

[techieboy]

Can't say I've had any trackday warping issues and I'm pretty hard on my brakes. Maybe it's the alloy bells and seperate rotors I have fitted. Remove the front fog lights and route some ducting from the holes in the front clam have the other end pointing at the inner face of the disk. A few people here have done it and there's a guide on the site, somewhere. Not aware of any off-the-shelf kit though (and didn't know about the TMS one).

[KDC]

Can't say I've had any trackday warping issues and I'm pretty hard on my brakes. Maybe it's the alloy bells and seperate rotors I have fitted.

Remove the front fog lights and route some ducting from the holes in the front clam have the other end pointing at the inner face of the disk. A few people here have done it and there's a guide on the site, somewhere. Not aware of any off-the-shelf kit though (and didn't know about the TMS one).

Thanx mate. I was thinking the AP kit may solve things but for all the full race cars I have seen, none have a standard front clam so the fact they have no heating issues suggests that the holds cut in the front for the charge cools probably lets more air to the discs anyway.

I looked at an old post for a home made ducting mod but the pics the individual posted have since been pulled off.

What Brake system are you running ?

[cheeky_chops]

what pads on the rear? How old are the pads? And who diagnosed warped discs? A few lotus people have been having problems with rs14's leaving deposits on the rotors, causing vibration on hard use. You could knock up some brake ducts pretty easily by removing the fogs and piping the air to the centre of the disc

[KDC]

what pads on the rear? How old are the pads? And who diagnosed warped discs? A few lotus people have been having problems with rs14's leaving deposits on the rotors, causing vibration on hard use.

You could knock up some brake ducts pretty easily by removing the fogs and piping the air to the centre of the disc

Pagid Blacks on the rear but I sent the front discs off to be re-skimmed to mitigate ceramic deposits just incase that was the issue. When the discs were removed they looked fine; no deposits. They came back with a report that they were not "true" and out by 15000th. What ever that means? The chap has made them true again so until another track day I am ok.

Silly question but do you know where I can get such ducking from and fixings ?

[techieboy]

What Brake system are you running ?

I'm running the Plans 295mm AP bell and rotor kit on the front with Pagid RS42's all round on the standard calipers (although the front calipers need to be spaced of the OE carrier by a couple of mm). I've been really impressed with the performance of them and even on some brake heavy circuits I've not had any fade or overheating issues even with some of the long sessions I end up doing. Still to be convinced that I need to move up to 4-pots on the front (even with the supercharger) and risk overly upsetting the balance. Still got a few more extreme pad options/combos to try before needing to resort to big brakes.

[techieboy]

Silly question but do you know where I can get such ducking from and fixings ?

The usual suspects like Merlin Motorsport or Demon Tweeks etc.

[KDC]

What Brake system are you running ?

I'm running the Plans 295mm AP bell and rotor kit on the front with Pagid RS42's all round on the standard calipers (although the front calipers need to be spaced of the OE carrier by a couple of mm). I've been really impressed with the performance of them and even on some brake heavy circuits I've not had any fade or overheating issues even with some of the long sessions I end up doing. Still to be convinced that I need to move up to 4-pots on the front (even with the supercharger) and risk overly upsetting the balance. Still got a few more extreme pad options/combos to try before needing to resort to big brakes.

I agree. i have held off with the AP racing upgraded calipers and discs as I did not want to mess with the very good brake bias. Problem with huge calipers at the front I suspect will need similar at the rear. Thorney says no and that the pad upgrade at the rear caters for this. If you upgrade front and read pads to the same and then add more bang at the front for calipers its seems obvious that bias will change and the car will become tail happy.

Are the Plans Rotors made by AP ? Plans do two kits and the AP Rotor set they say is the best on their web site ! The other kit s more expensive but their own description does not state how good it is ? Any idea which one you purchased and what spacer need? I may just try the same setup as you with some added cooling for good measure.

[KDC]

Silly question but do you know where I can get such ducking from and fixings ?

The usual suspects like Merlin Motorsport or Demon Tweeks etc.

Voila ! Thanks

[KDC]

What Brake system are you running ?

I'm running the Plans 295mm AP bell and rotor kit on the front with Pagid RS42's all round on the standard calipers (although the front calipers need to be spaced of the OE carrier by a couple of mm). I've been really impressed with the performance of them and even on some brake heavy circuits I've not had any fade or overheating issues even with some of the long sessions I end up doing. Still to be convinced that I need to move up to 4-pots on the front (even with the supercharger) and risk overly upsetting the balance. Still got a few more extreme pad options/combos to try before needing to resort to big brakes.

Hey, what Power Stage are you running and whose map? I must say I was considering the AP kit not just for cooling but I want to take mine to more torque 280-300ish. Its now at 248 and whilst its great sprinting on bendy tracks I do feel the increased braking will help with the extra power. You say "even with the super charger" suggest you are already at the power I indeed moving to?

[techieboy]

Hey, what Power Stage are you running and whose map? I must say I was considering the AP kit not just for cooling but I want to take mine to more torque 280-300ish. Its now at 248 and whilst its great sprinting on bendy tracks I do feel the increased braking will help with the extra power. You say "even with the super charger" suggest you are already at the power I indeed moving to?

I've got the Courtenay Stage 2 supercharger conversion on my formerly NA car. It's currently limited to 260bhp due to non-strengthened bottom end and the fact that my fuel pump can't cope with fuelling the car over 6500rpm. Hoping to address those problems over the next few weeks but that will probably only mean 270bhp'ish unless I also fit a smaller pulley to up the boost a few more psi.

[dw1]

What Brake system are you running ?

I'm running the Plans 295mm AP bell and rotor kit on the front with Pagid RS42's all round on the standard calipers (although the front calipers need to be spaced of the OE carrier by a couple of mm). I've been really impressed with the performance of them and even on some brake heavy circuits I've not had any fade or overheating issues even with some of the long sessions I end up doing. Still to be convinced that I need to move up to 4-pots on the front (even with the supercharger) and risk overly upsetting the balance. Still got a few more extreme pad options/combos to try before needing to resort to big brakes.

Ding.
I'd go in stages, the Plans allu bells are good and by all accounts keep things cool.
I went for the AP big brake kit and think it was perhaps overkill and would have been better done in stages as I might have found I didn't need the 4 pots after all.

If you go for ducting you need to make sure it is positioned in the right place to ensure the disk is cooled evenly to prevent local heat build up and warping - there weas a detailed thread about all of that on here somewhere including pics.

[VIX]

Revotec do non-specific cold air feeds which look as though they might go straight into the fog light holes:
http://www.revotec.c...oldAirFeeds.asp

[siztenboots]

how do you get enough clearance for the tyre to get some ducting around to the fog light area. I've looked and can't see a solution, other than underslung scoops

[Muncher]

how do you get enough clearance for the tyre to get some ducting around to the fog light area. I've looked and can't see a solution, other than underslung scoops

Just make it follow close to the chassis.

[Retset]

What diameter ducting works best? I assume it is mainly held on with cable ties? What part of the brake assembly doe it end up blowing on to? Ta

[Winstar]

What diameter ducting works best?

I assume it is mainly held on with cable ties?

What part of the brake assembly doe it end up blowing on to?

Ta

you need somthing that will match the size of the back of the fog light moulding but also be able to ducted around the suspension easily, with out measuring I'd say 2"ish.

As for where to point it there are 2 ways to do it so that both sides of the disk are cooled evenly. Either at the edge of the disk or you can point it as the center of the back of the disk so that the air is fed into the start of the radial cooling channel cast into the disks

[Ducati996Senna]

All,

I use a VX220 Turbo with Pagid RS14s at the front for 100% track use. The car had a Thorney Stage 2 remap but have suffered warped brake discs despite doing cooling laps after all my track time.

Does anyone know of a brake cooling kit that can be added to the VX that does not suffer the risk of snapping off during tracks days. I have seen the one sold by Thorney and it looks like it clips onto the control arms but probably will snap off on teh track.

I need something a little more secure !! I am running standard VX discs and calipers. I have spoken with Thorney and the do not feel the upgraded disks for use with teh standard calipers will actually help. At £650 I thought it was good advice and they felt it would be waste of money if heat is my main issue.

I'm producing a brake cooling kit that utilises the fog light apperture. A fiberglass reducer cowl will then attach to a 38mm flexible duct and attach to a purpose made aluminium cowl that directs the air flow into the centre of the vented disc. There will also be a small grill incorporated in the fog light cowl to prevent stones entering the ducting. Gonna cost about £150, all powder coated, but it will save warping your discs. Its important to get all the air into the centre of the disc and the size of the duct is determined by the available space between the hub carrier and the internal diameter of the disc. Standard discs are restictive but nethertheless cooling is optimised with the tiptec kit.

Attached Files

•  Picture_001__Small___WinCE_.jpg   20.25KB   4 downloads

[Retset]

Thanks Winstar! Ducati: Your forthcoming kit sounds interesting. How long till it will be available?

[Ducati996Senna]

Thanks Winstar!

Ducati: Your forthcoming kit sounds interesting. How long till it will be available?

Hopefully I'll get 6 sets complete within the next month.