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How Do You Adjust Handbrake


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#1 leevx2.2

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 04:27 PM

I put some new pads in and the rear brakes are binding where is the handbrake adjuster ? please dont tell me its in the centre console i have console apart and looks like i have to take the dreaded pasanger seat out to adjust it :beat: Nooooooooooo!!

Edited by leevx2.2, 15 March 2010 - 04:27 PM.


#2 techieboy

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 04:40 PM

You need the middle undertray off to adjust the cable that splits off to each of the calipers. One cable comes from the handbrake lever and joins the cable to both calipers. It's right in the centre of underside.

TIS

Edited by techieboy, 15 March 2010 - 04:40 PM.


#3 leevx2.2

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 04:48 PM

You need the middle undertray off to adjust the cable that splits off to each of the calipers. One cable comes from the handbrake lever and joins the cable to both calipers. It's right in the centre of underside.

TIS

Cheers Matt thumbsup thats better than i thought :D

#4 techieboy

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 04:55 PM

As you'll be such an expert at middle tray removal, you can come round to mine and fit a new high pressure fuel line from the pump to the filter, if you want? It's taken me 3 days to get the feckin convoluted plastic pipes between the in-tank canister and the fuel pump fitted. :angry2:

#5 leevx2.2

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 07:11 PM

As you'll be such an expert at middle tray removal, you can come round to mine and fit a new high pressure fuel line from the pump to the filter, if you want? It's taken me 3 days to get the feckin convoluted plastic pipes between the in-tank canister and the fuel pump fitted. :angry2:

My middle tray is in the garage it has been for about 2 years havnt got around to puting it back on :lol: .
what was up with pipes was they sh4gged?

Edited by leevx2.2, 15 March 2010 - 07:12 PM.


#6 techieboy

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 07:47 PM

The high pressure outlet on my original pump got broken when the ProAlloy tank got fitted. So, there was a bit of a bodged repair involving cutting off the quick fit connector on the fuel line and adding some fuel hose in it's place (which caused a big fuel leak when the originally fitted hose kinked). My replacement cannister has all connections present and correct, so I need to replace the high pressure fuel line between the pump and the filter. And that is shaping up to be a pain in the proverbial.

#7 theolodian

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 07:54 PM

My replacement cannister has all connections present and correct, so I need to replace the high pressure fuel line between the pump and the filter. And that is shaping up to be a pain in the proverbial.

At least it's only the one to the filter!

#8 leevx2.2

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 08:38 PM

The high pressure outlet on my original pump got broken when the ProAlloy tank got fitted. So, there was a bit of a bodged repair involving cutting off the quick fit connector on the fuel line and adding some fuel hose in it's place (which caused a big fuel leak when the originally fitted hose kinked). My replacement cannister has all connections present and correct, so I need to replace the high pressure fuel line between the pump and the filter. And that is shaping up to be a pain in the proverbial.

Matt your car will be 100% new soon you must of replaced every mechanical thing on it.
And i thought i was doing well but i have got allot of catching up to do with you :lol:

#9 techieboy

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 08:56 PM

Matt your car will be 100% new soon you must of replaced every mechanical thing on it.
And i thought i was doing well but i have got allot of catching up to do with you :lol:

Got to replace the flucking paintwork as well now. Finally removed all of last years Le Mans crap and it's pulled some lacquer off in a couple of places. Most noticeably a big patch on the front clam above the V. :angry:

#10 Paulus H

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 11:17 PM

I had a few issues with my brakes until I got some hidden away documents buried somewhere in Vauxhall's database, these show an updated method of setting up the handbrake. I am not saying this is rocket science but it worth a look all the same. I have tried attaching the scanned documents to this post but the file size was to large. They are not huge scans, if you want a copy, PM me your email address and I will send the documents to you. Would be interested to hear any feedback from anyone who tries this update...... Paul

#11 Crazyfrog (Fab)

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 11:22 PM


Got to replace the flucking paintwork as well now. Finally removed all of last years Le Mans crap and it's pulled some lacquer off in a couple of places. Most noticeably a big patch on the front clam above the V. :angry:


why did you remove it i was getting slowly used to it B)

#12 techieboy

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 11:36 PM

why did you remove it i was getting slowly used to it B)

You're asking me why? The vinyl was fine until you came around with Joe and started peeling bits off. :angry: :P

It was looking a bit tatty, especially the lighter blue vinyl and I was bored with shredding my hands cutting holes in the car for the fuel pump. So one thing led to another...... :(

#13 Crazyfrog (Fab)

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 11:52 PM



It was looking a bit tatty, especially the lighter blue vinyl and I was bored with shredding my hands cutting holes in the car for the fuel pump. So one thing led to another...... :(

mine you it did look like a aquamarine army car :lol:
be nice to see your the true colour at spa :D

#14 Mangham54

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 11:49 AM

Lee did adjusting the handbrake solve the problem?

Also when you said that the rear wheels were binding, was this all the time and/or did it get worse when in use (if you did drive it) - ie the friction from rubbing making them bind more?


Explaination, why I ask below(and apologies for the repetition of this question in several place- I hope that this will be the last) : Posted Image

I changed all the discs and pads on mine at the weekend and the rear wheels spin relatively freely when cold, but after 5mins of driving they are much more difficult to turn... Plus when trying sping them as though reversing it is much more difficult to do. However once the pads and discs have cooled they spin relatively freely again (not quite as freely as the front wheels), but the pads are definitely still in contact with the discs. When feeling the handbrake cable, where it attaches to the caliper) there is little, if any, play even when the handbrake is loose.

Unfortunately because of this the car is still in Newcastle, whilst I am back in West Yorks for work this week, so any measurements of whether there is the required 76mm distance when the handbrake is off cannot be checked until Saturday now. The discs were ridiculously well worn (probably at or around the min thickness, with pads that were aproximately 8-10k miles old - with no anti-rattle pad in them) so the increase in size was probably quite considerable (also pulling the handbrake up before pumping brakes probably didn't help!) so am thinking this could be the issue....


Any help or suggestions will be greatly recieved..... I am now off to search for a local MV training course as my tinkering without actual study is starting to become an iritation for me (and possibly for a few on here as well)

Edited by Mangham54, 22 March 2010 - 11:50 AM.


#15 leevx2.2

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 12:40 PM

Lee did adjusting the handbrake solve the problem?

Also when you said that the rear wheels were binding, was this all the time and/or did it get worse when in use (if you did drive it) - ie the friction from rubbing making them bind more?


Explaination, why I ask below(and apologies for the repetition of this question in several place- I hope that this will be the last) : Posted Image

I changed all the discs and pads on mine at the weekend and the rear wheels spin relatively freely when cold, but after 5mins of driving they are much more difficult to turn... Plus when trying sping them as though reversing it is much more difficult to do. However once the pads and discs have cooled they spin relatively freely again (not quite as freely as the front wheels), but the pads are definitely still in contact with the discs. When feeling the handbrake cable, where it attaches to the caliper) there is little, if any, play even when the handbrake is loose.

Unfortunately because of this the car is still in Newcastle, whilst I am back in West Yorks for work this week, so any measurements of whether there is the required 76mm distance when the handbrake is off cannot be checked until Saturday now. The discs were ridiculously well worn (probably at or around the min thickness, with pads that were aproximately 8-10k miles old - with no anti-rattle pad in them) so the increase in size was probably quite considerable (also pulling the handbrake up before pumping brakes probably didn't help!) so am thinking this could be the issue....


Any help or suggestions will be greatly recieved..... I am now off to search for a local MV training course as my tinkering without actual study is starting to become an iritation for me (and possibly for a few on here as well)

Yeah all good it was my handbrake your problem sounds the same i loosend of my cable and all thumbsup good luck ;)

#16 Mangham54

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 05:33 PM

Cheers again Lee. Will certainly give it a go on Saturday morning and see if it does the job. Then i'll head round to a local garage or ATS / Kwik Fit (worst case scenario) for them to double check everything and give me a peice of paper should I have any other issues and get therefore not be refused breakdown cover thereafter! Just now need to get the next PGDip essay done (Due next Monday) so I have the free time on Saturday to do the adjustment / tinkering.

Edited by Mangham54, 22 March 2010 - 06:23 PM.





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