When I had my Nitrons fitted the guys at Hofmanns said my O/S rear wheel bearing was making a bit of noise. TBH I couldn't hear it, but over the last couple of months its got worse and especially today at Silverstone its now making a really bad noise.
So what I need to know is:
How much?
Where from?
Can I do it myself?
If so, please can I have some pointers/advice from someone who's done this themselves.
Or should I just take it somewhere and let them sort it.
Cheers
Rear O/s Wheel Bearing
Started by
Sticky
, Mar 18 2010 07:41 PM
12 replies to this topic
#2
techieboy
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Posted 18 March 2010 - 08:12 PM
Easy enough to do (I've done all four - twice!! 
)
Slightly more complicated on the rear because of the driveshafts but still pretty straightforward. Access to the bolts that hold the hubs in place on the rear is hampered a bit because of the CV joints and they can be well rusted into place. Suspension can all be left in place.
1. Remove wheel.
2. Unclip wheelspeed sensor
3. Put wheel bolts back into the disc to stop the disc/hub turning.
4. Remove split pin from the castellated nut on the end of the driveshaft
5. Undo castellated nut (you'll need a decent size breaker bar) and loosen it off so that it's flush with the end of the driveshaft.
6. With a heavy hammer (copper faced ideally) give the castellated nut a good smack to disengage the drive shaft splines from the bearing and once it's freed up support the driveshaft on an axle stand or similar.
7. Remove bolts and disc
8. Undo the 3 bolts at the rear of the hub/bearing. These are the biggest pain as they were really well seized up on my car and it's hard to get decent access to them (think I ended up getting a ring spanner on them and giving it a belt with a hammer to break the seal). You have to be careful if you're using a ring spanner that you don't undo it too far and get your spanner stuck. So get it started and move to the open end.
9. Then you just need to persuade the hub/bearing pack to come out of the upright. Again, can be a bit rusted up and hard to budge/ I used copious amounts of Plusgas and penetrating oil on mine before using a very small pry bar to get them loosened off.
10. Reassembly should be much easier and is literally a reverse of the above. Get the driveshaft as engaged as possible into the splines of the hub and then use the castellated nut to draw it all the way into place.
You can get the hub/bearing from the usual suspects. Elise Parts also do it.
Think that was pretty much the process I followed. Of course, last time I told you something was straightforward, it didn't work so well. So, YMMV. 
)
Slightly more complicated on the rear because of the driveshafts but still pretty straightforward. Access to the bolts that hold the hubs in place on the rear is hampered a bit because of the CV joints and they can be well rusted into place. Suspension can all be left in place.
1. Remove wheel.
2. Unclip wheelspeed sensor
3. Put wheel bolts back into the disc to stop the disc/hub turning.
4. Remove split pin from the castellated nut on the end of the driveshaft
5. Undo castellated nut (you'll need a decent size breaker bar) and loosen it off so that it's flush with the end of the driveshaft.
6. With a heavy hammer (copper faced ideally) give the castellated nut a good smack to disengage the drive shaft splines from the bearing and once it's freed up support the driveshaft on an axle stand or similar.
7. Remove bolts and disc
8. Undo the 3 bolts at the rear of the hub/bearing. These are the biggest pain as they were really well seized up on my car and it's hard to get decent access to them (think I ended up getting a ring spanner on them and giving it a belt with a hammer to break the seal). You have to be careful if you're using a ring spanner that you don't undo it too far and get your spanner stuck. So get it started and move to the open end.
9. Then you just need to persuade the hub/bearing pack to come out of the upright. Again, can be a bit rusted up and hard to budge/ I used copious amounts of Plusgas and penetrating oil on mine before using a very small pry bar to get them loosened off.
10. Reassembly should be much easier and is literally a reverse of the above. Get the driveshaft as engaged as possible into the splines of the hub and then use the castellated nut to draw it all the way into place.
You can get the hub/bearing from the usual suspects. Elise Parts also do it.
Think that was pretty much the process I followed. Of course, last time I told you something was straightforward, it didn't work so well. So, YMMV.
#3
siztenboots
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Posted 18 March 2010 - 08:35 PM
to check, jack up , grab wheel and really spin it round hard, you should be able to notice/hear the bearing if its gone.
#4
Sticky
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Posted 18 March 2010 - 08:54 PM
Easy enough to do (I've done all four - twice!!
Slightly more complicated on the rear because of the driveshafts but still pretty straightforward. Access to the bolts that hold the hubs in place on the rear is hampered a bit because of the CV joints and they can be well rusted into place. Suspension can all be left in place.
1. Remove wheel.
2. Unclip wheelspeed sensor
3. Put wheel bolts back into the disc to stop the disc/hub turning.
4. Remove split pin from the castellated nut on the end of the driveshaft
5. Undo castellated nut (you'll need a decent size breaker bar) and loosen it off so that it's flush with the end of the driveshaft.
6. With a heavy hammer (copper faced ideally) give the castellated nut a good smack to disengage the drive shaft splines from the bearing and once it's freed up support the driveshaft on an axle stand or similar.
7. Remove bolts and disc
8. Undo the 3 bolts at the rear of the hub/bearing. These are the biggest pain as they were really well seized up on my car and it's hard to get decent access to them (think I ended up getting a ring spanner on them and giving it a belt with a hammer to break the seal). You have to be careful if you're using a ring spanner that you don't undo it too far and get your spanner stuck. So get it started and move to the open end.
9. Then you just need to persuade the hub/bearing pack to come out of the upright. Again, can be a bit rusted up and hard to budge/ I used copious amounts of Plusgas and penetrating oil on mine before using a very small pry bar to get them loosened off.
10. Reassembly should be much easier and is literally a reverse of the above. Get the driveshaft as engaged as possible into the splines of the hub and then use the castellated nut to draw it all the way into place.
You can get the hub/bearing from the usual suspects. Elise Parts also do it.
Think that was pretty much the process I followed. Of course, last time I told you something was straightforward, it didn't work so well. So, YMMV.
Cheers Matt.
Got the new wiper blade on now, its ace!!
I was hoping the bearing was a DIY job. No need for a new geo if the suspension is left in place which is also good news!
#5
mbes2
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Posted 12 December 2012 - 01:09 PM
Just doing this job, guessing I need to wack harder for step 6.... ??
Or is removing the top wishbone another option to remove drive shaft
Can anyone advise
thanks
#6
siztenboots
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Posted 12 December 2012 - 01:36 PM
back on track removed the toe link to get better access , give Jez a ring for help
#7
mbes2
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Posted 12 December 2012 - 01:50 PM
back on track removed the toe link to get better access , give Jez a ring for help
Done, had a good chat with him, got a few more tips...
thanks
#8
siztenboots
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Posted 12 December 2012 - 01:55 PM
one of those times you really want an impact driver
#9
Steelic
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Posted 12 December 2012 - 02:09 PM
Just doing this job, guessing I need to wack harder for step 6.... ??
Is stage 6 a bit premature? Surely whacking it with a big hammer at this point just smacks it against the gearbox and maybe damaging something?
Can anyone advise
thanks
#10
mbes2
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Someone say Plasti Dip?
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"Yes, I built it"
Posted 12 December 2012 - 02:55 PM
Done it, got it out, found my bearing puller.... done the job.
Jez said always best to remove toe link hub end, to remove drive shaft.... just gotta clean before fitting new wheel bearing.
thanks guys
#11
mbes2
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Someone say Plasti Dip?
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Posted 12 December 2012 - 07:12 PM
Job done, feel good, just need to road test now.
#12
mbes2
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Someone say Plasti Dip?
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Posted 13 December 2012 - 08:10 AM
Just doing this job, guessing I need to wack harder for step 6.... ??
Is stage 6 a bit premature? Surely whacking it with a big hammer at this point just smacks it against the gearbox and maybe damaging something?
Can anyone advise
thanks
Only just read your post.... this is not the case, removing the hub end toe link helps as the drive shaft can then be removed at a angle from the wheel bearing.
Wacking is a option but I used a bearing puller which made the job very easy.
#13
mbes2
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Someone say Plasti Dip?
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Posted 13 December 2012 - 08:13 AM
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