36 replies to this topic

[Mike (Cliffie)]

1) Run the charge cooler pipes down the passenger side. I mounted my pump on the passenger side of the bulk head, in total I needed 3 90deg bends and 1 180 degree bend.
This works well, and is how we did mine A good call.

Did you stick around to help out with the conversion? I wish I had been able to do so when my conversion was done but couldn't get the time off work

About the forge charge cooler rad - the guys REALLY struggle to fit them and it wouldn't surprise me if they charge a bit extra in labour if people get them to use the forge in future - I wouldn't blame them if they did

Now I know how to fit them, I wouldn't hesitate to fit another and certainly would charge no more to do so than a Pro Alloy one. The biggest pain was positioning the fans but I know where they go now so no problem.

Yup, mine was a pain to fit but that was because it was the first in and was a learning process. I think Joe and Neil had a much easier time with Seb's as Joe was with me when we put mine in.

[rcvaughan]

1) Run the charge cooler pipes down the passenger side. I mounted my pump on the passenger side of the bulk head, in total I needed 3 90deg bends and 1 180 degree bend.
This works well, and is how we did mine A good call.

Did you stick around to help out with the conversion? I wish I had been able to do so when my conversion was done but couldn't get the time off work

About the forge charge cooler rad - the guys REALLY struggle to fit them and it wouldn't surprise me if they charge a bit extra in labour if people get them to use the forge in future - I wouldn't blame them if they did

Now I know how to fit them, I wouldn't hesitate to fit another and certainly would charge no more to do so than a Pro Alloy one. The biggest pain was positioning the fans but I know where they go now so no problem.

Yup, mine was a pain to fit but that was because it was the first in and was a learning process. I think Joe and Neil had a much easier time with Seb's as Joe was with me when we put mine in.

Fair enough then still got a couple of texts cursing the thing!

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

i have just dig in my garden and found petrol i am very lucky ..............so will pay for my fix and have order a supercharger for the shed

Edited by FAB VX, 05 May 2010 - 10:19 PM.

[Seb.F]

Did you stick around to help out with the conversion? I wish I had been able to do so when my conversion was done but couldn't get the time off work

About the forge charge cooler rad - the guys REALLY struggle to fit them and it wouldn't surprise me if they charge a bit extra in labour if people get them to use the forge in future - I wouldn't blame them if they did

I was there the whole time yes!

All that actually needed to be done bar the removal of the 'supports' is moving the rad surround box a little when reattaching it (which meant a tiny bit of drilling a new hole or two I think). It really wasn't all that difficult and considering we did the whole job, including timing chain, conrods, fitting a Milltek, a small puff of smoke on a shorted wire on the inlet/alternator (meaning I had to blast to halfords 10 minutes before closing time to buy a new one...), fitting a new manifold as the old had the dreaded crack and some real pain in the ass lambda sensors that wouldn't come out, I think mine was in fact fairly quick and easy to do!!

Also bear in mind that I reattached all of the front clam AND aligned the bonnet myself, the second time I've done a clam, and the first I've dealt with aligning it (when it started out at about 5mm out of position). It took me all of 30 minutes it total to do it all, and personally I'd prefer to save the hundred and fifty or so over the pro alloy cooler to do that!! (Plus the forge has 50% more capacity in the actual rad itself, and let's not forget the tolerances of these rads hardly need to be extreme, they only get to about 22 degrees or so...)

[Mike (Cliffie)]

1) Run the charge cooler pipes down the passenger side. I mounted my pump on the passenger side of the bulk head, in total I needed 3 90deg bends and 1 180 degree bend.
This works well, and is how we did mine A good call.

Did you stick around to help out with the conversion? I wish I had been able to do so when my conversion was done but couldn't get the time off work

About the forge charge cooler rad - the guys REALLY struggle to fit them and it wouldn't surprise me if they charge a bit extra in labour if people get them to use the forge in future - I wouldn't blame them if they did

Now I know how to fit them, I wouldn't hesitate to fit another and certainly would charge no more to do so than a Pro Alloy one. The biggest pain was positioning the fans but I know where they go now so no problem.

Yup, mine was a pain to fit but that was because it was the first in and was a learning process. I think Joe and Neil had a much easier time with Seb's as Joe was with me when we put mine in.

Fair enough then still got a couple of texts cursing the thing!

Is that the forge charge cooler or the forge radiator Richie?

[rcvaughan]

Oooh, not sure Mike. Perhaps it was your combination of BOTH! Though I don't think that was the case (don't mind me, I'm just jealous that you got the last 3" 2bular! )

[The Batman]

remember pm me or leevx2.2 if you want this conversion done to go forge you save £70 although it takes about an extra 3hrs to fit ( and that was with the clam off to start with!) the proalloy is a much easier fittment but as said depends if you want to save time or money in my job any tool or product that saves me time is well worth the money! im happy to fit another one just beware i speak french when i do it

Edited by joe_589, 06 May 2010 - 03:49 PM.

[Seb.F]

remember pm me or leevx2.2 if you want this conversion done

to go forge you save £70 although it takes about an extra 3hrs to fit ( and that was with the clam off to start with!) the proalloy is a much easier fittment but as said depends if you want to save time or money in my job any tool or product that saves me time is well worth the money!

im happy to fit another one just beware i speak french when i do it

Was mine really that bad though Joe, it was done by 1ish wasn't it?

[Mike (Cliffie)]

remember pm me or leevx2.2 if you want this conversion done

to go forge you save £70 although it takes about an extra 3hrs to fit ( and that was with the clam off to start with!) the proalloy is a much easier fittment but as said depends if you want to save time or money in my job any tool or product that saves me time is well worth the money!

im happy to fit another one just beware i speak french when i do it

Was mine really that bad though Joe, it was done by 1ish wasn't it?

Should have asked me to do the charge cooler, piece of cake... I have had mine in and out three times though practising.

[vx220chick]

Its soo tempting at around the 3-4k price to go for SC-VX. I just need to loose all the points from my license so i can afford to insure it. need a year or so, but this also gives me time to save etc for the parts and conversion Having had an SC'd MR2 i love the torque and whine of an SC, and miss it.

[Seb.F]

P.S. Mine made 256bhp and 226lbft, it doesn't need to be mapped yet, if at all, as AFR is all between 11 and 12 throughout most of the range (bar under 2k rpm where it sits at about 15, I'm guessing for a smooth idle). The ignition is a little retarded but that's nice and safe and is giving me better power higher up. All in all a great result for me!

[NickB787]

P.S. Mine made 256bhp and 226lbft, it doesn't need to be mapped yet, if at all, as AFR is all between 11 and 12 throughout most of the range (bar under 2k rpm where it sits at about 15, I'm guessing for a smooth idle). The ignition is a little retarded but that's nice and safe and is giving me better power higher up.

All in all a great result for me!

get it mapped mate, if the ecu was just sent to Courtenays it has a safe map on which will mean a rich map. I would strongly advise you to get it mapped as all engines are different also give you the best possible performance you can get with your setup

Edited by NickB777, 07 May 2010 - 10:37 AM.

[siztenboots]

P.S. Mine made 256bhp and 226lbft, it doesn't need to be mapped yet, if at all, as AFR is all between 11 and 12 throughout most of the range (bar under 2k rpm where it sits at about 15, I'm guessing for a smooth idle). The ignition is a little retarded but that's nice and safe and is giving me better power higher up.

All in all a great result for me!

get it mapped mate, if the ecu was just sent to Courtenays it has a safe map on which will mean a rich map. I would strongly advise you to get it mapped as all engines are different also give you the best possible performance you can get with your setup

whats the target AFR , typically the SC cars I've got data from run 13.6

[Seb.F]

More fuel is yes admittedly less mpg. But it is safe. And it's also not dangerous at all. With afrs of 10-13 you would be fine. I wouldn't want a forced induction engine going leaner than 13 though. I have all the data on my laptop and while I've not written maps before I've directed how to and know how to read them along with the data. I won't get bore washed at that stage and I definately won't gain huge amounts of power with a leaner map. And most definately not (high up) more advance on ignition.

[stumpyRS4]

What a great read as a Newbie, and my first to boot! I'm looking at the pros and cons of getting a 2.2NA and SC-ing it, vs. buying a VXT, so this was ideal as a starter i.e. finding out roughly how much it costs. Those that have SC'd cars, hwo do they compare in their delivery to a VXT? I assume a mapped etc VXT would still be more powerful than a SC'd VX NA ? Cheers

[chris_uk]

power delivery on a sc car is alot better than that of a turboed one.

[Phear]

What a great read as a Newbie, and my first to boot!
I'm looking at the pros and cons of getting a 2.2NA and SC-ing it, vs. buying a VXT, so this was ideal as a starter i.e. finding out roughly how much it costs.

Those that have SC'd cars, hwo do they compare in their delivery to a VXT? I assume a mapped etc VXT would still be more powerful than a SC'd VX NA ?

Cheers

You'd have to do some serious work to get a VXT to better the S/C power to weight ratio. Stage 2 S/C come in at about 250-260bhp. You can get close to that with a Stage 2 Tubby I believe but you'd need another 20-25bhp on top to match the S/C in power to weight and that would need more serious work.