27 replies to this topic

[bbd]

I need to replace my track rod ends,obviously genuine Vauxhall ones are silly money,Eliseshop seems to be the best price,but are they any good? any recommendations as where to buy? Plus is there a way of checking the tie rods for wear?

[theolodian]

For fronts go to elise-shop but be sure to get the more expensive option. For rears get the full link from autovaux. Make sure that you get the right ones for early or later cars. You will also need new fine pitch nuts.

[Mangham54]

As per Theoldian's reply:

There is a difference between Track rod ends and Tie rod ends.....

Track = usually referred to on the Front (joins threaded end of the steering rack to steering arm on the hub)

Tie = usually referred to on the Rear (Joins the rear hub to the lower rear wishbone mount on the subframe)

Depending on which you need then depends on where to buy:

Front = EliseParts or Elise-shop (about £20 cheaper than AutoVaux, Lotus or Vauxhall)
Rear = AutoVaux for the whole assembly [2 joints and threaded bar each side] (about £60 cheaper each than Vauxhall, the EliseParts is an 'upgrade' so you take your choices with that.)

EDIT: PS I am not trying to sound condescending, but just trying to be as objective as possible!

Edited by Mangham54, 17 May 2010 - 03:55 PM.

[Zoobeef]

As per Theoldian's reply:

There is a difference between Track rod ends and Tie rod ends.....

Track = usually referred to on the Front (joins threaded end of the steering rack to steering arm on the hub)

Tie = usually referred to on the Rear (Joins the rear hub to the lower rear wishbone mount on the subframe)

Depending on which you need then depends on where to buy:

Front = EliseParts or Elise-shop (about £20 cheaper than AutoVaux, Lotus or Vauxhall)
Rear = AutoVaux for the whole assembly [2 joints and threaded bar each side] (about £60 cheaper each than Vauxhall, the EliseParts is an 'upgrade' so you take your choices with that.)

EDIT: PS I am not trying to sound condescending, but just trying to be as objective as possible!

Good reply

[Mangham54]

As per Theoldian's reply:

There is a difference between Track rod ends and Tie rod ends.....

Track = usually referred to on the Front (joins threaded end of the steering rack to steering arm on the hub)

Tie = usually referred to on the Rear (Joins the rear hub to the lower rear wishbone mount on the subframe)

Depending on which you need then depends on where to buy:

Front = EliseParts or Elise-shop (about £20 cheaper than AutoVaux, Lotus or Vauxhall)
Rear = AutoVaux for the whole assembly [2 joints and threaded bar each side] (about £60 cheaper each than Vauxhall, the EliseParts is an 'upgrade' so you take your choices with that.)

EDIT: PS I am not trying to sound condescending, but just trying to be as objective as possible!

Good reply

Cheers, it is my bastardised version of all that I have been told and read in my 14 months of marriage to .org!

[bbd]

Thanks for the quick replies , as I said Track rod ends (connected to the steering rack) Is there any easy way of checking the Tie rods? have pulled them about,they seem OK, The car has done 40K, only reason I'm replacing the track rod ends is that the rubber is starting to perish and I have a MOT coming up!

[Mangham54]

Thanks for the quick replies , as I said Track rod ends (connected to the steering rack)
Is there any easy way of checking the Tie rods? have pulled them about,they seem OK, The car has done 40K, only reason I'm replacing the track rod ends is that the rubber is starting to perish and I have a MOT coming up!

As for checking the only way I know of is to give the wheel the appropriate tug and then do the same on the steering rack. As for MOT failure mine sailed through even with a very tired and cracked over so it depends on how observant the tester is. Most seem to tug at each wheel and then just move on!

I even know of one MOT tester that used to just ask if the steering felt loose, put the car on the brake ramp and then check the lights worked... Not sure how he used to fudge the emissions test, but I never saw him attach the car exhaust to a damned thing.

I actually ordered mine from EliseParts and came very quickly. Just don't make my mistake..... Get the wire brush on the bottom thread then a good dose of WD40 (or equivalent) about 20-30mins before you try and undo it. If all else fails have a hacksaw ready as the steel used is easy to cut through (the threaded section that goes through the steering arm) and then you can just twist the rest of it off the steering rack.

[Seb.F]

One of my rear tie rods is solid as a rock, but the other one, on the end of the chassis, has about 15 degrees of flex in it on the ball joint itself (or what looks like a ball joint). I was hoping to change this at some point myself before I head out on track. Am I correct in saying this is what controls toe in or out as well?

[Mangham54]

One of my rear tie rods is solid as a rock, but the other one, on the end of the chassis, has about 15 degrees of flex in it on the ball joint itself (or what looks like a ball joint).

I was hoping to change this at some point myself before I head out on track. Am I correct in saying this is what controls toe in or out as well?

Yep.

Get it swapped.... Then Geo (or if you're brave get a whole new unit and try and match the lengths as exactly as you can and then fit.)

Mine are going to be swapped in the next two weeks and that is how I am going to st it, until I have bottomed out the rattles and knocks and then geo time.

[Zoobeef]

One of my rear tie rods is solid as a rock, but the other one, on the end of the chassis, has about 15 degrees of flex in it on the ball joint itself (or what looks like a ball joint).

I was hoping to change this at some point myself before I head out on track. Am I correct in saying this is what controls toe in or out as well?

Yep.

Get it swapped.... Then Geo (or if you're brave get a whole new unit and try and match the lengths as exactly as you can and then fit.)

Mine are going to be swapped in the next two weeks and that is how I am going to st it, until I have bottomed out the rattles and knocks and then geo time.

Just make sure the new rods are the same length as the old from centre of the ball joint to the other centre and it should be fine till you want to get a full geo.
Make sure the ball joints are equal on both ends of the rod though. If you need to shorten by 10mm say, screw one side in 5 mm and the other in 5mm

[vectraboyv6]

hi im also changing track rod ends. just to check these are the right ones ???? http://www.elisepart.../track-rod-end/ thanks

[Ouchie]

hi im also changing track rod ends.

just to check these are the right ones ????

http://www.elisepart.../track-rod-end/

thanks

Yep, make sure you select the VX220/Speedster option before you add to the basket.

[slindborg]

I have 'killer' S1 TRE's on mine.. they are the same size as what I took off. Paid less than a tenner each from a lcoal motorfactors.

[Seb.F]

They are cheaper than I thought! I had visions of them being like £60 or so... so I'd just need to buy two of them and screw into either end of the track rod itself?

[Seb.F]

EDIT: Or are Tie Rod ends different (for the rear)

[bbd]

I have 'killer' S1 TRE's on mine.. they are the same size as what I took off. Paid less than a tenner each from a lcoal motorfactors.

I tried my local motor factors who are normally really good, but they didn't list any for the VX or the Elise S2, I didn't know you could fit the S1 TREs,cheers for that, at least I know next time!!

To check the rear tie rod ends,do I need to take the shock assembly off and check movement within the arm? or just pull the TRE about with the weight off the wheel?

[Mangham54]

EDIT: Or are Tie Rod ends different (for the rear)

Tie rods for the rear are completely different. They are about £60 each for the whole assembly each side from AutoVaux ( a good deal more through Vaux or Lotus)

[Seb.F]

Gotcha I was beginning to wonder.... thanks!

[simsy]

to check rear tie rods. best to jack up rear. pull on wheel to and throw as if trying to make it steer. If there is any play at all you need to do one of two things: 1 - replace the complete tie rod £60 (or a ball joint if you can find one) 2 - tighten the ball joint bolt if loose (usually outer one). Ever way it's bloody dangerous to run with play here. It's a week point and failure could be tragic.

[Z.I.]

i know nothing about car mechanics but i have just started getting a creaking/clunking noise coming from behind my steering wheel (steering rack?) and wondered if this could be the track rod ends? any help highly appreciated and sorry for being such a biff!