14 replies to this topic

[Muncher]

Finally got my car back from Cornering Force and once parked up overnight in my garage I've noticed I've got a bit of an oil leak. It's probably as a result of the replacement engine I put in as the few hundred miles back was the first serious run it's had. It's raining but so I can't get it out of the garage and have a proper look right now. I'm thinking the ony places it can be coming from are: 1. The plate on the top of the oil filter housing. I thought I had a leak from here before so I replaced both O rings with new ones. There's a little oil in the gulley behind there but I can't detect a significant leak. 2. The joint on the sump where it touchs the gearbox 3. Where the dipstick joins the sump. The dipstick popped out a couple of times on the drive home, what's the fix for this again? Bit frustrated to say the least... Pics here: http://www.muncher.org.uk/oilleak

[techieboy]

If it's anything like my leak was, it was coming from the lower metal seal underneath the sandwich plate. I lost 2.25 litres of oil between Norfolk and Bedford. Cue lots of panicking that still hasn't entirely gone away. Replaced the two seals and made sure the filler cap and seemingly permanently attached cooler adaptor (the bit that sits in the housing) were properly tight and no leaking since. If there's any oil on top of the gearbox, then I reckon the filter housing will be the source. Good luck.

[Muncher]

Cheers, I think it may be coming from there. Last time I screwed it down I think the collar piece and the cap became joined together so screwed down as one. I could really do with the tool used to tighen the middle section down...

[Muncher]

According to TIS that piece needs to be screwed down with 120NM so that may be the cause. The strange thing is there's no oil on the top of the filter housing from what I can see.

[Muncher]

OK, I'm pretty sure the leak is coming from there, is torquing the cap the only way to get it tightened corrently?

[Nelly Vx]

Don't know many people who do torque the cap up , usually a long 1/2" bar and just nip it will usually do the job , hope you get it sorted Paul

[jonnyboy]

Bloody hell I didnt relise it was 120 NM no wonder mine was leaking. Funnily enough last weekend I tightened it as much as a dared and its actually stopped leaking. Good job as there is apparently no UK stock of the metal seals!

[Muncher]

Bloody hell I didnt relise it was 120 NM no wonder mine was leaking. Funnily enough last weekend I tightened it as much as a dared and its actually stopped leaking. Good job as there is apparently no UK stock of the metal seals!

http://www.speedster... Replace (Z22SE).pdf

Install, then secure securing ring (1), using Remover/Installer KM-6264 120Nm

The cap itself only needs 18NM, but as far as I can see it the only way to tighten the collar beneath it if that is luose is to over torque the cap...

[mandarinvx]

The cap itself only needs 18NM, but as far as I can see it the only way to tighten the collar beneath it if that is luose is to over torque the cap...

It looks like you're supposed to use a 'C Type' spanner, similar to the ones used for shocks, or even a screwdriver and hammer, but in that case I'm not sure why they'd give a torque value

[Muncher]

Either that or as I suspect some kind of socket which sits over the top when the cap is not in place.

[slindborg]

it will be a big round socket with lugs on to let you torque it up. you could probably make up something with angle iron and a socket you dont mind welding to the X of angle.... We made tools up like that for fitting diff retaining 'nuts' (its the size of a CV joint lol) etc.

[vocky]

I normally use a massive pair of plumbers pliers, when the inlet manifold is off, to tighten the adaptor piece, then the oil filter lid doesn't require overtightening

[Muncher]

The leak was back again in a big way at my Abbeville trackday yesterday. I don't think it is coming from the filter housing as that appears to be dry. I can only think it could be a leak where the sump bolts on perhaps? I had to replace the sump on the new engine as I noticed a hairline crack in it at one point.

[Mangham54]

it will be a big round socket with lugs on to let you torque it up.

you could probably make up something with angle iron and a socket you dont mind welding to the X of angle.... We made tools up like that for fitting diff retaining 'nuts' (its the size of a CV joint lol) etc.

I tell you what if someone came up with a tool to tightenthat fcuker up properly (I can't see how it would be possible even with the dedicated Kent-Moore tool.

That would definitely be a tool I would invest in!

[FLD]

That very tool has been in my mind to make at some point. My plan was to get the shape laser cut in stainless then get a circle of stainless cut with a 1/2" square in the centre. Weld the two together and hey presto. Oil thingy socket. My only concern with this would be the strength of the lugs as I think they will gall quickly. The other otion I thought of was to cut recesses where the lugs would be and use drive keys. My motivation is low on this one due to the very large waterpump pliers I have! What do you think to my ideas?