31 replies to this topic

[badgerade]

After being into Hoffmans and having the throttle pedal & sensor unit replaced I've got an intermittent P1221 error code back again. It's been fine for about 150 miles and has now done it 3 times today. Apart from the plugs on the throttle pedal, throttle body and under the expansion tank, what else is there that can be checked? I'm fairly sure that P1221 relates to the TPS, but in this guide: http://www.vx220.org...ble-codes-dtcs/ it states that it is: "Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low" Are we on completely the wrong lines with the TPS? thanks!

[Arno]

That document is a generic list. Manufacturers can re-use codes over 1000 for their own use, so there's no standardisation here.

Z22SE specific codes:

http://www.speedster.../z22secodes.pdf

Or more details on pins and wiring as well on THIS PDF

Bye, Arno.

Edited by Arno, 18 June 2010 - 05:54 AM.

[badgerade]

Thanks Arno, at least we are looking at the right problem then! I've only had the car a few weeks and I think it's been off the road more time than on it

[snoopstah]

My old 2.2 NA needed a replacement ECU to fix this after the 'usual suspects' like wiring and pedal sensor were ruled out

Edited by snoopstah, 18 June 2010 - 10:27 AM.

[FLD]

I've a spare ecu set if it comes down to it.

[badgerade]

Replacement ECU sounds a bit worrying. It's still got 5 months of the dealer supplied warranty on it which should hopefully cover the main costs.

On a similar issue.. I assume that installing the ITB kit would more than likely eliminate this issue? It's something I was considering having done in the not too distant future.

I've a spare ecu set if it comes down to it.

Thanks FLD, I'll bear that in mind!

[Ken]

Hi guys, I've a simiar Throttle position problem: codes are 1515 - Command versus Autual Throttle Position Correlation 1516 - Throttle Actuator Actual Throttle POsition Correlation. Any ideas where I go from here? thanks, k.

[Ken]

Hi guys, I've a simiar Throttle position problem: codes are



Any ideas where I go from here?
thanks,
k.

Sorry the codes are:
1515 - Command versus Autual Throttle Position Correlation
1516 - Throttle Actuator Control Position Performance

thanks,
k.

[snoopstah]

Sorry the codes are:
1515 - Command versus Autual Throttle Position Correlation
1516 - Throttle Actuator Control Position Performance

thanks,
k.

Just from how they sound, I'd be going for a problem with the throttle body itself (or the servo) rather than the pedal, wiring or anything else discussed here.

Cleaning it with carb cleaner is a simple first step, and you may get lucky and that's all it needs!

[Jon]

Hi we have seen a couple of cars with throttle related T/C when the 2 ( black & blue ) plugs located behind the header tank bracket get corroded, might be worth opening them up to have a check, hope this helps, Jon

[badgerade]

So P1221 has gone now, and after a week of hassle free driving the car died on the M4 yesterday. I'm now getting: P1512 - Throttle Position Minimum Learning not completed P1515 - Command versus Actual throttle Position Correlation So far: Pedal sensor changed. Plugs behind expansion bottle checked and cleaned. Throttle body changed. (This cleared the P1221). The car starts fine, but when running the revs are all over the place and dont appear to settle. When I turn off the ignition it shudders to a halt rather than cutting off cleanly. Throttle pedal is not doing anything. Anyone got any ideas?

[VIX]

Anyone got any ideas?

Take it back to the dealer and get them to fix it and get a loaner in the meantime?

[FLD]

So P1221 has gone now, and after a week of hassle free driving the car died on the M4 yesterday.

I'm now getting:

P1512 - Throttle Position Minimum Learning not completed

P1515 - Command versus Actual throttle Position Correlation

So far:

Pedal sensor changed.

Plugs behind expansion bottle checked and cleaned.

Throttle body changed. (This cleared the P1221).

The car starts fine, but when running the revs are all over the place and dont appear to settle. When I turn off the ignition it shudders to a halt rather than cutting off cleanly. Throttle pedal is not doing anything.

Anyone got any ideas?

I had these. Its down to the throttle not doing what the pedal tells it to do. Its not that the contacts are corroded but they are loose (no current to the drive motor). Its the blue plug and if you pull it open, remove the yellow mesh, then look at the contacts you will see whichever one is loose. Poke a pin in and close it up. You can get replacement contacts if need be. I tore my hair out over this one!! Also worth making sure the blue and black plugs are pushed home fully.

[badgerade]

I had these. Its down to the throttle not doing what the pedal tells it to do. Its not that the contacts are corroded but they are loose (no current to the drive motor). Its the blue plug and if you pull it open, remove the yellow mesh, then look at the contacts you will see whichever one is loose. Poke a pin in and close it up. You can get replacement contacts if need be. I tore my hair out over this one!! Also worth making sure the blue and black plugs are pushed home fully.

They did check the connector, but would they be able to tell if the contacts are loose just by looking at the end, or would it require a bit more digging? Might be easier to ask them to replace the connectors - do you have a link to any online?

Cheers.

[FLD]

I had these. Its down to the throttle not doing what the pedal tells it to do. Its not that the contacts are corroded but they are loose (no current to the drive motor). Its the blue plug and if you pull it open, remove the yellow mesh, then look at the contacts you will see whichever one is loose. Poke a pin in and close it up. You can get replacement contacts if need be. I tore my hair out over this one!! Also worth making sure the blue and black plugs are pushed home fully.

They did check the connector, but would they be able to tell if the contacts are loose just by looking at the end, or would it require a bit more digging? Might be easier to ask them to replace the connectors - do you have a link to any online?

Cheers.

Its not immediately obvious if your looking for corrosion. If you look right down the centre of the terminal there is a sort of clamp piece that makes the contact. If the wiring is free to move it levers open the terminal. You can see that its moved back if you look down each terminal. You can push them back with a pin or they are 8070's from vehicle wiring products. Its worth checking that the plugs are pushed right home as the last few mm are really hard. If thats right in (ooer) then give the wiring a wiggle. If that cures the problem its a loose connection here. The wiggle fix wont last but it helps pin it down.

[FLD]

Just a thought, do you have an op-com? You can do a throttle check and look to see if the butterfly moves. I suspect you'll see it wont move. I used a webcam as I was working solo.

[badgerade]

Cheers for the info. No opcom unfortunately Car's at the garage again - they're sticking the tech2 on it tomorrow so I'm hoping that they'll find something there. I'm hoping to have ITB's added in the near future so I'm not too keen on chucking too much more cash at it.. but on the other hand I want it back on the drive

[vectraboyv6]

[quote name='badgerade' date='12 July 2010 - 10:26 PM' timestamp='1278969982' post='1060727']
Cheers for the info. No opcom unfortunately

Car's at the garage again - they're sticking the tech2 on it tomorrow so I'm hoping that they'll find something there.

I'm hoping to have ITB's added in the near future so I'm not too keen on chucking too much more cash at it.. but on the other hand I want it back on the drive
[/quote

just had this on mine after alot of buggering about. it turn out to be water in the waterproof plugs on the ecu! youll have to unbolt the ecu and clean and dry out (hairdyer ???). also 1 blot will need drilling out to get the ecu off!

stu

Edited by vectraboyv6, 13 July 2010 - 11:12 AM.

[badgerade]

just had this on mine after alot of buggering about. it turn out to be water in the waterproof plugs on the ecu! youll have to unbolt the ecu and clean and dry out (hairdyer ???). also 1 blot will need drilling out to get the ecu off!
stu

Hmm thanks, that could be an option to look into. How much effort is involved with checking the ECU plugs? The other thing is, it's not rained for ages and the car was running perfectly well once the T/B had been changed. (Until sunday anyway). It's been like this on and off now for a good few weeks, albeit now with slightly different throttle related error codes.

[markv]

Did you check and clean the connector on the throttle body? Cleaning the plugs behind the header tank shouldn't help, those don't contain the throttle body wires. If you start the car and the revs are going all over the place it sound like it is either a problem with the throttle body itself, or the wiring towards it. If you remove the air intake pipe from the throttle body, turn the ignition on but don't start the engine, it would be interesting to check if the throttle plate actually moves (you probably need an assistant for that one ). It should move from closed to full open fluidly, but not too quickly when flooring the accelerator. If you wait a while, not using the accelerator, the plate should end up in "standby" mode, so not fully closed, just a bit open. As soon as you use the accelerator and leave it alone again it should be fully closed. Checking that should at least give you an idea of what the throttle body does.. If it isn't reacting as expected, might be interesting to try another one to rule out the wiring... Mark