15 replies to this topic

[colgy]

After much time this winter solving my starter woes, i thought I'd have a trouble free summer; I was wrong....... I've got the clicking sound from the starter solenoid when I try to turn it over so I assumed the battery is flat. When I connect my charger, it tells me that the battery is charged and switches to trickle. The battery was replaced in February and is good (been tested). Earth connections to the engine are good, battery terminals are fine, starter is a year old, am I missing something? Don't want to buy a new car but I'm really getting fed up with this....

[NickB787]

When you say the earth points are fine have you undone them and cleaned both the bolt and area it earths too. I had this although the bolt was tight there was corrosion preventing a good contact. remove them and use some Emmery paper

[colgy]

I've not actually, because it looks bloody difficult to get in there! Definately not that battery, had it on trickle charge and still nothing. There's no whine when you turn the ignition on (fuel pump priming?) either, just the click of the solenoid. Could it be the starter is goosed?

[peterg]

When I connect my charger, it tells me that the battery is charged and switches to trickle

don't trust the charger, get a multimeter on the battery and test it:
with everything switched off you want a minimum of 12v across the battery terminals and anything up to 13.7v is OK or to put it another way:

battery voltage................ % charge
12.6v or more................. 100
12.4-12.6 .................... 75-100
12.2-12.4 .................... 50-75
11.7-12.0 .................... 0-25
< 11.7 ....................... it's a dead parrot

Turn the ignition on and try starting the car, if the battery voltage drops below 9v then you either have a knackered battery or there is too much resistance so check connections/earths etc, if they are OK check the starter motor

When you have successfully started the engine then the alternator will charge the battery and the multimeter should show between 14.1 and 14.6v when this is happening, anything below 14v probably means the alternator is be going and anything above 14.9v means the voltage regulator on the alternator has gone and the battery will be cooking - I know someone who measured 16.5v when theirs went and the battery was boiling and could have exploded!

[colgy]

Cheers

Battery is 12.8V so it looks good, was tested at Halfords a couple of months back with a proper meter and was replaced early this year, so I think that looks ok.

Battery connections have been checked & cleaned, where is the gearbox earth again?? Good continuity from starter earth to chassis though. I haven't removed any bolts Nick as it looks like a PITA to get to (can barely see the starter!); I'll probably leave that until last before replacing the starter.

So I'm trying to double check the yellow starter relay again, but I can't work it out!


Here's the bottom of the relay with 2 large contacts (1M & 2M at each side, Earth at top, +12V in middle) and 2 s maller contacots at the bottom (labelletd 2&3):

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How do they relate to this wiring diagram??

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K24 is the yellow relay, S124 the starter switch, and the bottom left-hand connection from the relay feeds the starter.


I've got 12V at the +12V and 2M pin. My thinking was that the +12V & earth would be the power supply, the smaller contacts the operating switch and 1M & 2M would be what to short out to operate the starter solenoid; but this just blew the 10 amp fuse! Its hard to see what colour of wires go where so any help would be appreciated!

Edited by colgy, 16 August 2010 - 07:06 PM.

[tommobot]

I had exactly the same symptons you describe. Spent an age trying to find the problem. Ignition was fine, battery was new and connections where clean. But it would just do nothing when you pressed the button. But you could bump start it and it would run tottaly fine. Changed the yellow relay in the boot and still didn't start. Gave up and took it into Vauxhall. They found that it was a loose wire at the back of the yellow relay if that makes sense. I.e If you took the rear wheel arch liner out then you would have access to the wires etc.. I belive it was one of the wires here that was loose / frayed / broke etc..

[Wolfstone]

Gave up and took it into Vauxhall. They found that it was a loose wire at the back of the yellow relay if that makes sense.

Vauxhall solved a problem with a VX? There's a first!

[colgy]

Hmmm, yeah I want to rule out loose wires/breaks etc. before I change the starter but its hard to do continuity checks when you don't know which pin is what! Maybe an auto-electrician would have some luck, I'd trust them more than vauxhall!

[Paulus H]

Not all Vauxhall dealers are the same. My local dealer is excellent, to the point where they could be described as a VX220 specialist. My local dealer (Burton On Trent) has done a wide variety of work to an excellent standard on my car, they even tell you how much it will cost before you take your car in and drive the free hire car away. They have a steady stream of VX220s coming in for work so they know the cars, the mechanics are VX220 trained and they have access to all the Vauxhall documentation. Yeah you can take your car to an auto electician who has never seen one of these cars before and does not answer to a workshop manager. Personally I would not be so fast to knock your dealer unless you already know for sure that they are inept. Or know for sure of an auto electrician who is very good. Just trying to offer a balanced view......... Paul

[colgy]

Fair point When I lived in Portsmouth I always found the local garage excellent. The one in Glasgow; well they struggled to bleed my brakes and wanted over £500 to replace a wheel bearing and a couple of droplinks..... However, I may be better taking to them than someone that hasn't seen the car before

[garyk220]

Could you try swapping a relay from another VX/Elise to discount yours as faulty? Does the fuel pump prime and do you get all the dash lights running through the diagnostics with ignition on? If so, it does sound like it could be the starter motor solenoid, if you can hear it clicking when trying to turn the engine over. I'd want to rule out the starter relay and immobiliser circuits first before attempting to remove and replace the starter though. Easiest way would be to bump start it. If it runs then you've discounted fuelling, battery and immobiliser circuits.

[colgy]

Good point, yeah it bumps starts perfectly fine. Before it stopped turning over, the starter had a few coughs then nothing. I can hear a click, not sure if it's the relay or solenoid I'm hearing though. I don't know anyone nearby that has a vx/elise unfortunately!

[NickB787]

The connector I was thinking of is the one on the bodywork not the starter itself If I remember it's on the nearside bodywork (by the wheel) accessible from underneath just a bolt with a cable on it but mine was corroded (sorry no pics!!)

[ratboiler]

Can I add a couple of simple tips here which might help. When you have to clean a battery terminal the easiest way to do it is boil the kettle have a cup of tea and use the rest of the boiling water on the battery terminal just pour it on it will clean off perfectly (my old grandad taught me that one). I had an MGB that suffered the same problem, having had the engine out the earthing strap was broken, a friend of mine who was a car machanic came round and connected a jump lead to the chasis then earthed it on the engine,worth a try. .

[Zoobeef]

The most important part is making sure the cup of teas correct I take it your not in pompy colgy?

[colgy]

Na, Im in Glasgow nowadays - weathers much better! Problem sorted anyway, lose cabling at the starter, jobs a good 'un, cheers for all the help!