22 replies to this topic

[Zoobeef]

Have a problem with my vectra 2ltr diesel. Engine code x20dtl. When you drive and it gets over about 1600rpm the engine light comes on and it goes into limp mode. When you back off and the rpm drops down it goes off and power is restored. Used the op-com today and it came up with code P1220. Now having a search around it looks like a fuel pump problem. Anyone got any other ideas as the pumps are pretty expensive, and its a shed that its on Or does can anyone source a cheap pump for me, the scrap yard i phoned today wanted £250+vat. And if its not that that is faulty i'll be a bit annoyed haha

[Nelly Vx]

Had the same on a astra 17d sold it on ! I will ring a mate tomorrow at direct diesel and see if there is a cheap fix

[Mangham54]

I had a 2.0 DTi Vectra a while back and had al sorts of problems with the EML coming on, typically it would just come on and jump into limp mode at roundabouts or anytime when the throttle wasn't being used. It had a crank sensor failure later, but the symptoms of that were hunting, a dead rev counter and limp. You could leave it half an hour and would run fine for a bit and play up again. Hope you get sorted, when mine went into Vauxhall for diagnosing (though it was after about a year of 'making do') the list of parts required ran onto two pages, and the bill was over £1600 + VAT + Labour!

[vocky]

the code data I have refers to a throttle body problem, but being a diesel that could be the pump. have you checked the solenoids and small air pipes that feed them, replace any brittle or split ones

[vocky]

and the fuel metering pump is part of the immobiliser circuit so will need Tech2 to match it to your car

[Zoobeef]

Well i've had it 4 years now and would like it to limp on 1 more haha. Cheers nelly. theres a couple on ebay, one being £100 the other £150. but obviously harder to send back if it doesnt work

[Zoobeef]

and the fuel metering pump is part of the immobiliser circuit so will need Tech2 to match it to your car

I suppose the pump does a similar job as a throttle body so the codes must be similar.

I did wonder this as i had problems when i stuck a new engine in a ford not to long back. Had to use the pump off the old engine. Going by what i can find on the net its not the case with this car although found one pump website that shows how to remove the electronic part to send it to get fixed so could prob swap the electronics over if needed

[Ormes]

I may be off beam here, but experienced similar symptoms recently in a laguna - blocked exhaust - cat had colapsed!

[Nelly Vx]

Spoken to Dave , who said fuel pump speed sensor, basically pump is worn ! Secondly he said fuel starvation will give the same fault , so start at the filter ( change it ) if it has not been in a while and blow the fuel line back to tank to make sure it's free . Pump repairs start at 450 plus vat :-)

[Zoobeef]

Its kindly picked up a nice fault of having to bleed the injectors or use easy start to get it started in the morning now. Winner. Watching a pump on ebay at the min so hopefully wont go up to high. Its great that most places want £250+ for a second hand pump yet ebay has the worlds allocation of second hand engines for £250 or less. Scandalous

[greasemonkey]

Hi im a vauxhall mechanic, the 2.0 diesel has 2 issues with fuel draining back to the tank causing difficulty starting, firstly the early leak off pipes (black rubber with material coating) perishes causing leak (later changed to all rubbe hose), they are ones over the injection pipes to the head joined with plastic t pieces. Secondly the injector seals under the camshaft, the nozzel sits in the head directly under the camshaft pointing down with a bridge bolted accross that the main metal injection pipe connects to. between the nozzels and bridges are metal rings coated in rubber. My bet would be that these are faulty if the car is having starting issues, but still starts after being cranked. The rubber cracks and air and some oil leaks into the return and drains back to the tank. Both are very common and far easyier than the pump to try first, my hope is that you get this email before you tear into the engine to replace the pump. They can easily be done in two hours.

[Zoobeef]

Thing is it didnt havde the start5ig fault untill after the runnung fault. I did have the injector seals in mind as a possibility but as it had the running fault first im going to swap the pump see if that fixes 1 prob or both. then look at the seals. Bet i can do the pump in 2 hours to

[Nelly Vx]

15 mins to check the leak off pipes first

[Zoobeef]

15 mins to check the leak off pipes first

Yeah the've already been replaced. T-pieces and leak off pipe is all free from work haha

[Nelly Vx]

Result

[Zoobeef]

Started to get a little annoyed with this car now. Fixed the starting fault, i replaced the leak off pipes again and use a bit of silicone grease at the connectors at the filter and it starts ok although very rough at first and plenty of smoke. Also changed those injector seals as they were cheap but made no difference to the car. Now this evening i changed the pump. Made sure the timing was spot on and it started fine but has exactly the same problem when driving Which must mean its not the pump at all as the chances of getting a random second hand pump with the same fault is pretty slim. Now what to check next? Did read somewhere about a possible blocked cat? Does that sound feasable and is there an easy way to check or is it just to remove the cat and look? Cheers guys

[Zoobeef]

Right, tok the exhaust off today and tok it for a run. Still does it so thats ticket off the possible blocked cat. Taking it to a garage in the morning with full bosch diagnostics so i'll see what that brings up. Also for the pump immbiliser question earlier. If the pump has 2 electrical connections then it needs coding to the immobiliser. 1 connection then its fine aslong as the pump part number is the same

[severnless]

just had a thought after reading your woe's if you've ruled out the pump, all of the fuel supply pipes from the tank to the injectors and you're sure its ok, then the next thing i would look at is the inlet side? you've said you get a fault code and light when over 1600 rpm but goes out when going below, soooo.... is there a blockage in the air filter box? or a rubber pipe from the airbox thats collapsing? (quite common on ford escort turbo wiesel!) is there something in the inlet manifold? i had some problems on my saab 93 which were eratic, turned out to be the pre cat had melted and jamed futher down the pipe, but you've already ruled this one out.! hope you get it sorted soon.

[Zoobeef]

Well the code points towards the injection initiation. And looking at the live data Idle crank angle Wanted 3.0 degrees Actual 2.1 degrees 2500RPM Wanted 7.4 degrees Actual 2.1 degrees So as you can see its not changing the angle it wants to inject at all. How is this controlled? In the pump? I've decided to take my old pump to get it tested anyway tomorrow unless anyone else redcommends anything. If my pum has an error then the new one prob does too and ill need another. If no error the the faults somewhere else and im at a loss. Needs the MOT this week too so if its not fixed then the car cant be used

[Zoobeef]

Well hes only gone and bloody fixed it Took of the little valve thing on the pump that works the injection timing and the tiny thing inside was siezed. So freed it off and then re-fitted my old pump (had enough of doing them now) and it works good. Feels very quick for a 12 year old barge haha. Odd thing is the valve was fine on the other pump so not sure whats up with that one, even though it had the same code haha. Oh well Now i need to do the discs and pads and get it MOT'd on friday. Cutting it very fine as would of been without a shed in a few days time