13 replies to this topic

[Gedi]

I don't think an answer has ever been given to this. I don't know much about hydraulic clutches so would appriciete any input. Thanks.

[madasahatter]

The short answer is "No" I think. When I had the Clutch put into the Cerbera $$$$$ I was told that the bite point on Hydraulic Clutches is determined by how the clutch is assembled. So, although I said "No" above, I believe a more accurate answer might be "Yes" if you were prepared to strip down the clutch, and re-build it. However, even then it might not be possible I guess depending on the clutch design. My clutch point is high on my VXT, and has been since I had it (1500 miles). It could be the way that they are designed. If the clutch is off another car, and has been modified to work in the VX I guess it could be a shortcoming of using a part designed for another car. Steve

[Gedi]

Becuase the biting point on my clutch is so high I don't think its fully engaging and its causing my clutch to slip under boost. I'm gonna have to put this argument forward to vxl in the hope they'll honour my warranty. If not, it looks like my car is off the road for the summer as I don't have £800 for a new one

[JimH]

Is there any method of adjustment on the link between the slave cylinder and the actuating lever?

[Gedi]

Is there any method of adjustment on the link between the slave cylinder and the actuating lever?

I have no idea.

I was thinking along the lines of bleeding some of the fluid out or something like that. But I'm just guessing.

[JimH]

The only thing that leaps to mind is that there is some method of adjusting the length of the link between the slave cylinder and the actuating lever. It would probably be something like a threaded section with a lock nut(s). It is possible that the slave cylinder is reaching the limit of its travel before the clutch is fully out. This, however, may be complete bollocks. You should be able to see the slave cylinder just by peering under the engine lid. Just pop outside, it's a lovely day.

[kevtherev]

The bite point on the clutch is not adjustable, however if there is any adjustment on the clutch it is to take up any wear on the driven plate. This is the case for both hydraulic and cable opperated clutches. With a hydraulic clutch it opperates by pushing out the release lever so a return spring is usually fitted to the pedal to stop the clutch riding on under the weight of the pedal. With a cable clutch it opperates by pulling the release lever so a return spring is not usually fitted. If you ride the clutch it will cause premature wear most people do not admit to this and say it is a faulty clutch

[kevtherev]

The clutch on the VX is not adjustable

[cheeky_chops]

With a hydraulic clutch it opperates by pushing out the release lever so a return spring is usually fitted to the pedal to stop the clutch riding on under the weight of the pedal.

Thanks for the advice Kev!

I dont know if you are aware(dealer?lotus person??) but a spring in the clutch assembly keeps snapping, virtually everyone on here has had one (or 3!) go (2.2 and T). Some people dont relace them as they beleive it "feels no difference"....

[kevtherev]

Yes I am aware of this, and when it brakes they wonder why after a while there clutch starts to slip

[j.harrison22]

Just so you know.... in a hydraulic system the fluid does not compress and acts like a "flexible prodder". You dip the clutch pedal, the fluid squeezes the clutch plates apart. When you release the pedal the clutch spring forces the clutch plates back together, the fluid is "pushed back towards the pedal". As the clutch wears the space the wear creates is replaced by more hydraulic fluid, this is why there is a resevoir, the clutch will become heavier as the clutch spring increases its attack angle and becomes harder to force.. There is no adjustment as the fluid must be free to "push" and "return" as you operate the pedal. If you were able to lengthen the actuating rod to the master cylinder you would either close off the resevoir, or have constant pressure on the clutch, or the clutch would not fully disengage with the pedal fully depressed (depending on wether you were to increase or decrease the linkage length). The only way to alter the ratio of pedal travel to clutch movement would be to change the pedal to master cylinder ratio (longer/shorter actuating lever) or to get a larger/smaller master or slave cylinder. If you see what I mean. So the bite point is not adjustable ...and mine feels very late too.

[Gedi]

It appears my clutch only slips when cold, and under boost. I get no slippage after I have been driving for about 5 minutes Why is that?

[j.harrison22]

Sure it's not your tyres spinning 'till they warm up? Are you on standard boost? Does the pedal pressure feel different when cold?

[Gedi]

No deffinetly not the tyres. It happens in third at about 60mph when it comes on boost. No I'm not running standard boost. I'm on an AmD stage 2 remap (about 1bar) Clutch pedal doesn't feel any different, although I've had one of the new clutch pedal return springs fitted and it is nowhere near as strong as the old spring (although it does just about return the pedal)