Performance Clutch/flywheel Install

I'm a car enthusiast and do it yourself advocate. I'd like to upgrade my clutch/ flywheel combo for an imminent ECU reprogram (regelin stage 2) on VXT220. I have shop crane, engine hoist, torque wrenches etc. so engine removal out of car does not give me the shivers. Just looking for simplest operation/time involvement possible. Anyone here attempted clutch replacement?

Anyone? is it too early in the day to ask greasy/knuckle scraping questions?

It is a 10-15 hr job that sometimes require two persons to be present. Preferably done with the car lifted high, but can be done on floor level, which I did. Disassembly (clam removed) 1. Drain the gear box oil. 2. Remove the left brake caliper 3. Remove the two allen bolts at the upper wishbone, remove all shims 4. Remove the lower LR wishbone at the chassis 5. Remove the complete upright together with the left drive shaft 6. Unscrew el. wiring, water hoses, clutch hydraulics. Pry loose the gear shift cables and release the spring holding it. 7. Remove all bolts except the 2 uppermost at the gear box flange to the engine. 8. Remove engine supports rear, front and left. (Fixate the engine with a engine hoist before the cushions are removed). 9. Pry loose the right hand drive shaft from the gear box and then remove the last 2 screws holding the gear box to the engine. 10. Lower the left side of the engine. 11. Remove all M12 bolts connecting the gearbox to the engine. There is one hard to reach at the back of the engine. Note that the bolts are different lengths. 12. Pull away the gear box towards the left to disengage from the engine, while the right hand drive shaft slides out from the gear box. 13. Loosen all screws to pressure plate in a cross-wise manner and finally remove the bolts holding the flywheel. An alternative is to remove the right drive shaft as well, which I did. Refitting Generally the assembly is in the reverse order 1. Fit the flywheel to the crankshaft. Use Loc-tite to secure the bolts. Use new bolts when fitting. Tighten the bolts with 65nm +30 degrees + 15 degrees. Do in stages symmetrically. 2. Fit the clutch friction plate, and the pressure plate, properly centered. Tighten the bolts cross-wise. Use Loc-tite to secure the bolts. Use new bolts when fitting. Tighten the bolts with 15 Nm 3. Slide the gear box onto the left side of the engine. Take care that right the drive shaft enters the gear box. 4. Refit all engine supports and lower the engine. 5. Re-fit the gear shift cables, clutch hydraulics el. Wiring and any water hoses. 6. Refit the left side drive shaft and the upright. 7. Refill the gear box with oil, 2 l. 8. Bleed the clutch hydraulics (Clam reinstalled) Job done!

Fantastic break-down clipping-point Thanx much I will definitely hold ur instructions close by during operation

Or......you can do it with the engine left in the bay and remove the suspension and other bits to give access. PITA though as it means a susp set up so we use the engine out method. We've got it down to 12 hours.

You´re welcome! Actually I wrote it while installing a Courtenay flywheel on my N/A. Some things may be slightly different on the VXT.

oh and what clutch are you fitting? We fit the Sachs one but its too much for the release bearing so we fit an uprated AP version of those at the same time.

Thorney, thanks for details. I'm thinking of the sachs as well. The release bearing is definitely something i need to upgrade then? might as well do it for peace of mind while everything is apart... On the installation front, do you also leave the engine just hanging in the bay by the engine hoist and just tilt it to one side (as per Clipping's instructions) for gearbox removal or do you completely remove it away from the bay after disconnecting driveshafts and all?

We can supply you all the parts you need if you like, about to make another order. We tend to take it out, saves any grief.

oh and what clutch are you fitting? We fit the Sachs one but its too much for the release bearing so we fit an uprated AP version of those at the same time.

Which type of SACHS clutch and when the release bearing fail (after upgrade of Cluch) ?

Up for Thorney.

oh and what clutch are you fitting? We fit the Sachs one but its too much for the release bearing so we fit an uprated AP version of those at the same time.

Which type of SACHS clutch and when the release bearing fail (after upgrade of Cluch) ?

about 20 miles after the clutch went in....lost all pressure.

All sorted now though

My car failed after 2 presses of the clutch whilst it was still on axel stands

I have a SACHS Organic reinforced clutch system with OEM release bearing which is installed on my car since about 6 000 km. At date I have no encounter any problem (except that clutch pedal is more hard to push than OEM). So what type of clutch system have you installed on your car ?

We're just unlucky then 1 went within 30 miles, the other went after 2 pushes.

John, don't performance clutch kits ususally come with an upgraded release bearing from the clutch manufacturer, in this case sachs? As they have all the test results on what force their pressure plate needs applied to it?

the top guide mentions removing the hub shims.. does this mean a geo setup is needed again, or just refit the shims as they were removed?? only just had a geo setup done.. would prefer to know if it could be done without touching the susp!

Edited by Guy182, 28 March 2007 - 08:02 PM.

the top guide mentions removing the hub shims.. does this mean a geo setup is needed again, or just refit the shims as they were removed??

only just had a geo setup done..

would prefer to know if it could be done without touching the susp!

Refit the shims as they were and you should be OK. I think think C_P just mentioned them because they will fall off when you remove the two allen bolts. The upper whishbone is a PITA to remove from the rear subframe that's why you should remove the upright from the upper wishbone instead.

Or......you can do it with the engine left in the bay and remove the suspension and other bits to give access. PITA though as it means a susp set up so we use the engine out method. We've got it down to 12 hours.

Hmmmmm, whats the damage on fitting a lightened flyweel at the same time, roughly speeking ?
Or do I need to upgrade the pistons, cams valves at the same time ?

Sorry, missed this. If you remove the shims then ideally you would need to check the geo was ok as it will put it out whenever you move componants. Its one fo the reasons why we remove the engine. As regards clutches there are 2 versions, an organic and full sintered, we tend to fit the full sintered as it has a higher limit.