Starting Problems

 

Has it just come out of hybernation?
If yes, was it filled up last on E10 or E5?

Just come out od hibernation 99 Ron fuel, tank was full and not yet been topped up.  In answer to Ivor it's a Turbo.  In answer to Stevieturbo I have two OBD readers, I bought the second one because when the first gave no codes I suspected it wasn't working properly.  Quick look this morning tells me the reader is not reading the VIN code either.

 

 

How long off the road?

 

 

Has it just come out of hybernation?
If yes, was it filled up last on E10 or E5?

Just come out od hibernation 99 Ron fuel, tank was full and not yet been topped up.  In answer to Ivor it's a Turbo.  In answer to Stevieturbo I have two OBD readers, I bought the second one because when the first gave no codes I suspected it wasn't working properly.  Quick look this morning tells me the reader is not reading the VIN code either.

 

 

How long off the road?

 

 

It's been off the road for four months with a nearly full tank of fuel  Turned over for a while every month.  Put back on the road a month ago and taken for a couple of drives - one a forty mile round trip and the other twenty, misfire at high revs/boost so spark plugs changed and gapped correctly.  Tank is showing approximately three quarters full.  Parked up since then with the cover on because the weather has been dire.  Then/now, simply starts and stalls which might indicate a fuel supply issue.  There's pressure in the fuel rail but I don't have a pressure guage connector that will connect/push in the valve to measure what pressure there is.  What we have discussed previously has been in my mind.

Before you start heading down that particular rabbit Warren of fault finding doom I would definitely plug your car into opcom. It has saved me hours of unnecessary work over the past 10 years of vx ownership. The last fault I had was that the car would randomly cut out. It isn't the same as your fault because once it had cut out it wouldn't restart for about 5 minutes. I fault found that in 60 seconds using opcom (crank position sensor). A generic code reader gave me diddly squat!

Before you start heading down that particular rabbit Warren of fault finding doom I would definitely plug your car into opcom. It has saved me hours of unnecessary work over the past 10 years of vx ownership. The last fault I had was that the car would randomly cut out. It isn't the same as your fault because once it had cut out it wouldn't restart for about 5 minutes. I fault found that in 60 seconds using opcom (crank position sensor). A generic code reader gave me diddly squat!

I think you're right - I've already ordered one.

I'll wade in with the one nobody wants to hear - immobiliser fault.

Sometimes (and I don't know what immo the Turbo has, i'm assuming the same as the N/A) they prime, start and then cut.
I see above you have an OPCOM coming, so it should tell you if there is an issue.

I bought an Astra ECU to make a clone of my own using MPPS and OPCOM (before I went to OBD tuner) and had this start-stop issue and it was the immo.
It somehow became unpaired. This was during me setting the clone up with OPCOM as it had made a happy start as soon as I plugged it in but, during what memory says was adding a third key, it got confused.
I re-paired the immo and ECU and all was well.

I made a second clone to content myself that it was a fix, but clone 2 worked and kept working.

My turbo does not have an immobilizer, but some do, good point

My turbo does not have an immobilizer, but some do, good point

 

Is the immobiliser not an integral function of the OEM ecu ?

 

Or has that been disabled ?

 

Have you managed to do any testing yet to determine what's happening ?

My turbo does not have an immobilizer, but some do, good point

Is the immobiliser not an integral function of the OEM ecu ?

Or has that been disabled ?

Have you managed to do any testing yet to determine what's happening ?

It's not me with the problem, just saying my turbo does not have an immobilizer

I have been using opcom for years, it has never let me down:

 

https://www.ebay.co....kp:BFBM8I7N99pj

 

I had these exact symptoms when a jubilee clip failed. The hose coming from the bottom of the turbo blew off. The engine would run but it wouldn't tick over without throttle. Check the hose from the airbox to the turbo, turbo to intercooler and intercooler to throttle body. The other thing I would check extremely carefully is the spark plugs. If this has happened since you disturbed them then it if definitely worth triple checking. Maybe a spark plug has worked itself loose.

You havce a PM.

Question:  Looking at the fuel rail from the rear, which fuel line is supply and which is return?

 

Thanks

 

ob.

on turbo rail, the return is at the FPR end.

 

Why ?

 

Just test pressure at the test port if need be.

on turbo rail, the return is at the FPR end.

 

Why ?

 

Just test pressure at the test port if need be.

The test port requires a special connection (connects and releases the valve) which I do not have, nor do I have a suitable male hose tail connector to replace the valve with  (I haven't removed it to measure the dimension and thread) .  However it's flow volume after the PRV I want to test, and

not the pressure, so I want to confirm that the return is on the right hand side of the rail.  Excuse my incompetence but I don't know what FPR actually stands for?

 

Thanks

Fuel Pressure Regulator.

Have you tried removing the Turdbo and swapping it with a nice supercharger ????  

Have you tried removing the Turdbo and swapping it with a nice supercharger ????  

That's an excellent suggestion, and actually it's nearly top of my 'to do' list - second only to 'amputate my penis with a rusty razor blade'.

Have you tried removing the Turdbo and swapping it with a nice supercharger ????

Classic oxymoron "nice supercharger"...

Would anyone happen to know the amperage rating of the fuel pump circuit.  I seen 30A mentioned but I don't know where that figure comes form - seems high?

Would anyone happen to know the amperage rating of the fuel pump circuit.  I seen 30A mentioned but I don't know where that figure comes form - seems high?

 

It's on a 20A fuse at the back, but no way will it be drawing 20A. Too small a pump.

 

Likely only around 7-8A.

 

I've currently mine on a 15A after rewiring the car, but haven't actually scoped it to see how much current, although equally no idea what pump is lurking in there.

 

Even an 044 would only be around 10-12A, Walbro 450 around 12-13A, but they're at the high end of intank pumps ( pump, current will of course increase as pressure increases, but those figures are testing around a base pressure of 50-60psi or so, which again is higher than most would run as a base )

Edited by stevieturbo, 04 May 2024 - 08:54 PM.

Tested mine, Key on prime around 6.3A

 

Engine at idle 6A. FP during prime would be around 3.1 bar, at idle due to vac reference 2.6-2.7 bar hence current a little less.

 

Didn't test with the scope to see what inrush current might be.