50 replies to this topic

[davestarck]

Been looking/reading a lot about the issues with timing chains on certain age na's. Decided after much pondering to bite the bullet and have a look. My car is an 2002 and the engine number did fall into the so called 'Dodgy' area but my chassis number didn't. Today I removed all the necessary covers etc to have a good look. My engine was fitted with the correct tensioner, as in it had the nicks in the bolt, which acording to some people meant that your engine was all OK. I removed the oil jet a guess what - its the faulty one and on trying to blow through it I found it to be blocked Glad now that I purchased a timing chain kit from my local stealer (£120.00 all in) and will continue to replace the faulty bits. Mine has covered 32K and they are supposed to break at 40K so all worth while in my opinion. So much for 'They don't break on vx220's'!!! I am sure mine would have if I had left well alone. Dave

[Sutol]

so glad i got mine changed having hearing this.

[davestarck]

so glad i got mine changed having hearing this.

You and me both!!

[Sutol]

so glad i got mine changed having hearing this.

You and me both!!

as a matter of interest, how much wear/damage was evident to the chain/sprockets?

[davestarck]

so glad i got mine changed having hearing this.

You and me both!!

as a matter of interest, how much wear/damage was evident to the chain/sprockets?

Haven't got as far as getting the chain off yet. Everything stripped and ready to go. Been suffering with a bad back and after 2 trips to the osteopath this week and a heat wrap (looks like a girdle) still no better. So today I took is nice and slow to save myself from being a cripple tomorrow! Will let you know when I get the bits off.

Dave

[Sutol]

ouch, remember my last back attack, so take it easy!

[n1k_ns]

Today I removed all the necessary covers etc to have a good look. My engine was fitted with the correct tensioner, as in it had the nicks in the bolt, which acording to some people meant that your engine was all OK.#

I thought that was an old wives tale?

[slindborg]

there were two issues, one with an iffy tensioner (easy swap) and the oil jet being gay. Dave, did you drop the engine to get the timing chan cover off, or did you merely shunt it out of the way as you cant get that long bolt out.

[davestarck]

there were two issues, one with an iffy tensioner (easy swap) and the oil jet being gay.


Dave, did you drop the engine to get the timing chan cover off, or did you merely shunt it out of the way as you cant get that long bolt out.

Was going to ask the same thing - what a pig that bolt is!! Managed with the aid of a pick axe handle to leaver the engine forward enough to remove it. At one point I was completely stumped, don't know about getting it back in, thought of cutting a few threads off which is all it needs.

Dave

[slindborg]

Assuming you took the drivers side engine mount off, you can whip the bolt out of the rear engine mount and drop the bastard down to get it all in/out... thats what I did anyway.

[davestarck]

Assuming you took the drivers side engine mount off, you can whip the bolt out of the rear engine mount and drop the bastard down to get it all in/out... thats what I did anyway.

I did remove the engine mount but the ally frame is still in the way. Was a bit worried about jacking the engine too high. Will see when I next get back to it once my back is better. Was really the wrong thing to start today but it seemed like a good idea at the time as my wife and kids were out all day - suffering now!!

Dave

[slindborg]

take the ally bracket off (15mm bolts), then whip the one bolt out of the middle of the rear mount and then lift the car up/lower the engine and get the long bolt for the cover in What would be good is to replace the bolt with a stud (with loctite mutha funker on it) and nylock nut with a dowty (spelling) washer to keep the oil in place,

[davestarck]

take the ally bracket off (15mm bolts), then whip the one bolt out of the middle of the rear mount and then lift the car up/lower the engine and get the long bolt for the cover in

What would be good is to replace the bolt with a stud (with loctite mutha funker on it) and nylock nut with a dowty (spelling) washer to keep the oil in place,

Thanks for that - will look into both ideas - that bolt was the hardest bit of the job so far

[luna_s]

doesn't the bolt come out with the cover ? can't remember now

[slindborg]

its a bastard as you pull the bolt all the way out till it hits the chassis, and there are still threads in the way iirc... I was tempted to drill a hole in the chassis lol

[luna_s]

well its certainly easier to remove when the engines on the kitchen floor

[davestarck]

Did either of you replace the bottom pulley bolt? It says in the Haynes manual that it needs to be replaced but can't see why. It also says the rocker cover rubber gasket and bolt rubber washers as well. Dave

[luna_s]

i replaced the bottom bolt, wasn't expensive iirc (about 3 quid) the rocker cover bolts are a quid each, and the gasket came with my headset, just check the condition - should be no need to replace, just clean it up

[slindborg]

I changed the bottom bolt and the valve cover gasket (And the timing chain cover gasket). reused the cover washers though... no leaks from that end of the engine. oh, also changed the oil seal on the crank too.

[p4cks]

Erm I don't understand. Cam chains on a VX220 don't snap. It says in the Bible.