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#21 davestarck

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 11:39 AM

Erm I don't understand. Cam chains on a VX220 don't snap. It says in the Bible.


Apparently not!!! Glad I checked mine - small oil nozzle = blocked = lack of lubrication = snapped chain. Not rocket science :o

Dave

ps - have already got the timing cover gasket and crank oil seal just wasn't sure about the pulley bolt.

#22 Exmantaa

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 01:44 PM

Apparently not!!! Glad I checked mine - small oil nozzle = blocked = lack of lubrication = snapped chain. Not rocket science :o

Dave

ps - have already got the timing cover gasket and crank oil seal just wasn't sure about the pulley bolt.



Old oil nozzles have an internal spring valve which causes problems. Probably you cannot blow through it by mouth, but with some compressed air you can. The new style "bigger" nozzles just lack this spring valve....

#23 luna_s

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 02:23 PM

Erm I don't understand. Cam chains on a VX220 don't snap. It says in the Bible.



lol :lol:

i agree! :P

#24 bazzio

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 07:34 PM

Erm I don't understand. Cam chains on a VX220 don't snap. It says in the Bible.

i hope they dont!!!!! i just bought one!! which ones are affected?? i knew that there was a small number of cases with the astra/vectra's but not with the vx220?? mine has 37k on it, should i be worried??

#25 ChazUwe

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 07:44 PM

I had the revised Timing Chain kit fitted by Bayliss under warrenty. Definately worth physically checking as not something you want to stump up a big bill for if it does go!

#26 vocky

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 08:36 PM

my 2001 z22se vectra sri had the old oil jet, so I replaced the cam chain kit at 31k. my 2003 z22se vx220 had the later oil jet, I still fitted a new cam chain kit during the engine upgrade as the mileage was 38k :rolleyes: as long as you do regular oil changes it should be fine, just listen for any rattles on cold start up

#27 luna_s

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 09:41 PM

*cough*

Posted Image

Posted Image

#28 davestarck

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Posted 04 March 2008 - 12:13 PM

Question - how did either of you tighten the new bottom pulley bolt - as in lock the engine. This bolt has to be torqued and then turned by a certain amount as its a stretch bolt. getting the old one out was a right PITA. Dave

#29 slindborg

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Posted 04 March 2008 - 02:25 PM

in 5th, handbrake on, chocked wheels, gf in car with her foot wedged on the brake..... I'm sur eyou could lock the flywheel but I couldnt be arsed

#30 davestarck

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Posted 04 March 2008 - 02:50 PM

in 5th, handbrake on, chocked wheels, gf in car with her foot wedged on the brake.....


I'm sur eyou could lock the flywheel but I couldnt be arsed


That's how I got the old one out - minus the gf as my wife was out with the kids - had a mate instead and a long bar on the end of the ratchet!!

Thanks

Dave

#31 davestarck

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Posted 04 March 2008 - 02:57 PM

Erm I don't understand. Cam chains on a VX220 don't snap. It says in the Bible.

i hope they dont!!!!! i just bought one!! which ones are affected?? i knew that there was a small number of cases with the astra/vectra's but not with the vx220?? mine has 37k on it, should i be worried??


Happy reading

Do a search on here - there is a section listing the chassis/engine numbers that are supposed to be effected.

Dave

#32 davestarck

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Posted 06 March 2008 - 06:24 PM

Right - one more question. I aligned up the old sprockets with the silver links matching up with the markings on the inlet and exhaust sprockets. I then checked that the bottom sprocket mark also matched its marking on the chain and that No1 piston was a TDC on the compression stroke. I then removed the tensioner, guides, old chain etc and replaced with all the new bits. The new chain has blue and purple links and I again made sure that everything aligned ok and that the new tensioner had sprung out properly. With the spark plugs removed I then rotated the engine a few times to make sure nothing was hitting etc and all free but after turning quite a few times it now seems that the marks don't align anymore. Any idea how many times you have to turn the engine round for these marks to align again or has something gone wrong?? Dave.

#33 vocky

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Posted 06 March 2008 - 07:26 PM

I did work it out once when someone asked the same question, something like 250 times :wacko:

#34 Exmantaa

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Posted 06 March 2008 - 08:52 PM

If you really want to be sure: With the plugs out you can rotate the engine backwards a few turns. Past the original install point and then then forwards till everything lines up again... Alternative is the ~250 times forward. :blink: Talking chains: What's the verdict on the painted white & blue dots on the casing? White dot on (or nearby) chain tensioner => Tensioner replaced by dealer?? Blue dot on (nearby) chain case => Chain etc. replaced by dealer?? I read somewhere about this paintdots, but although I have the blue + white dot, I did have the old style oiljet in my Speedster... (But not anymore now. :rolleyes: )

#35 davestarck

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Posted 07 March 2008 - 06:20 PM

If you really want to be sure:
With the plugs out you can rotate the engine backwards a few turns.
Past the original install point and then then forwards till everything lines up again...

Alternative is the ~250 times forward. :blink:

Thank god for that - thought something had gone wrong!! :rolleyes:

Talking chains:
What's the verdict on the painted white & blue dots on the casing?

White dot on (or nearby) chain tensioner => Tensioner replaced by dealer??
Blue dot on (nearby) chain case => Chain etc. replaced by dealer??

I read somewhere about this paintdots, but although I have the blue + white dot, I did have the old style oiljet in my Speedster... (But not anymore now. :rolleyes: )


Me personally, I think that the only way too be sure is to have a look - PITA but better than a broke engine!

Dave

Edited by davestarck, 07 March 2008 - 06:21 PM.


#36 BlueVX52

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Posted 09 March 2008 - 08:59 PM

Dave Is there any pre warning signs ticking or knocking that you know of from your vaulable research?? Mines an 10/02 car and is out of chassis range but will have to check the engine number i reckon! Definitely do not want a big repair bill from a failing chain! You got your clam back yet?? Dan

#37 davestarck

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Posted 09 March 2008 - 11:19 PM

Dave

Is there any pre warning signs ticking or knocking that you know of from your vaulable research?? Mines an 10/02 car and is out of chassis range but will have to check the engine number i reckon! Definitely do not want a big repair bill from a failing chain!



Dan, mine is a 08/02 and had no ticking/knocking at all. All the bits I took off looked in good condition apart from the oil jet, but still money well spent I think!!

Dave

#38 slindborg

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Posted 10 March 2008 - 08:20 AM

imho its wise to simply change it to ensure you have the most uptodate version of the chain/jet/tensioner as its barely more expensive than a cambelt kit for a "normal" engine and marginally more effort to change, but it will then last for 100K with no worries...

#39 davestarck

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Posted 10 March 2008 - 08:35 AM

£170.00 inc vat for all the bits needed inc new synthetic oil and filter and alternator belt. Dave

Edited by davestarck, 10 March 2008 - 08:36 AM.


#40 slindborg

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Posted 10 March 2008 - 09:24 AM

bloddy hell, are you getting oil massaged by nubile ladies or something?




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