51 replies to this topic

[styles]

Charge temps are more like high 10s or really low20s at 300bhp...

Are those the intake air temps post charger

[JohnTurbo]

High tens sounds unlikely! 30 would be typical for a near perfect system unless its mid winter. Heat transfer relies wholly on delta T. I should remind that charge air temp lower than ambient is impossible without evaporation.

[Exmantaa]

That's water temp not air temp unless I had a seriously sh** water temp guage

that means fcuk all....

post compressor air temp is what you want to know.

Oh and as for running higher octane fuel you will NEED to advance the timing to cope otherwise the slower burn that High Octane brings means that the heat will be much later in the burn cycle and can cause the exhaust valves overheat and other such fun. Its basically like running too retarded

What you want is to run on bioethanol and have a sensor to switch calibrations for normal petrol and the bio stuff

All of the above, and especially the latter as I just found out that since April the Bio E85 stuff is 20% cheaper here than Euro95.

Just talked about this yesterday and as my LSJ ecu has dual map capability; how do I sense the fuel/bio stuff? Saab has a sensor for that??

[The Batman]

Indeed I remember that convo! Just need to sort the swap for te lsj ecu and the htuners... Main thing would be is the availability of the biofuel though...

[slindborg]

That's water temp not air temp unless I had a seriously sh** water temp guage

that means fcuk all....

post compressor air temp is what you want to know.

Oh and as for running higher octane fuel you will NEED to advance the timing to cope otherwise the slower burn that High Octane brings means that the heat will be much later in the burn cycle and can cause the exhaust valves overheat and other such fun. Its basically like running too retarded

What you want is to run on bioethanol and have a sensor to switch calibrations for normal petrol and the bio stuff

All of the above, and especially the latter as I just found out that since April the Bio E85 stuff is 20% cheaper here than Euro95.

Just talked about this yesterday and as my LSJ ecu has dual map capability; how do I sense the fuel/bio stuff? Saab has a sensor for that??

Saab would have a sensor yes.

You need higher capacity injectors as bioethanol isnt as calorifically stocked at 95 so you can max the injectors out quite quick.
Most post 2000 cars should run on E85 to an acceptable level without mods though.

[Exmantaa]

That's water temp not air temp unless I had a seriously sh** water temp guage

that means fcuk all....

post compressor air temp is what you want to know.

Oh and as for running higher octane fuel you will NEED to advance the timing to cope otherwise the slower burn that High Octane brings means that the heat will be much later in the burn cycle and can cause the exhaust valves overheat and other such fun. Its basically like running too retarded

What you want is to run on bioethanol and have a sensor to switch calibrations for normal petrol and the bio stuff

All of the above, and especially the latter as I just found out that since April the Bio E85 stuff is 20% cheaper here than Euro95.

Just talked about this yesterday and as my LSJ ecu has dual map capability; how do I sense the fuel/bio stuff? Saab has a sensor for that??

Saab would have a sensor yes.

You need higher capacity injectors as bioethanol isnt as calorifically stocked at 95 so you can max the injectors out quite quick.
Most post 2000 cars should run on E85 to an acceptable level without mods though.

Yes, I have some 60lb Siemens injectors but the US guys mostly run 80lb's or higher with E85.
(And for real flex fuel capability you probably need to run a full lambda control ecu.)
Will see when time comes. First an LSJ engine/ecu swap.

[The Batman]

Hopefully when the z20 ecu is up and running we will have air temps just before it goes into the ports so will be good to find out what they actually are! But I still think to hit the 300 mark just go down the same old boring road of cc there is not much price difference to be honest

[Bargi]

Is there an unused port on the inlet manifold that I could stick a temperature sensor in? Can't remember if there is one that we block up, or whether it's just the MAP/TMAP hole. Would be handy to properly measure it and log it (and temp sensors are cheaper than any of the other sensors I can plug into the Performance Box).

Get yourself a Meth Injection Plate and tap another hole for your sensor

[The Batman]

Only problem with that is wont it raise the chsrger to hit the bulkhead/dipstick?

Edited by joe_589, 03 May 2011 - 11:51 PM.

[Bargi]

Only problem with that is wont it raise the chsrger to hit the bulkhead/dipstick?

Yeah it's a tight fit isn't it, there is another possibility, depends how dedicated you are

Vocky mentioned moving the bulkhead forward into the interior cavity so he could get a bigger air filter.
Do the same and you've got plenty of room

Another kit
http://rebelautoworx...&products_id=74

[The Batman]

I would just drill and tap into the manifold To be honest thinking about it I know the tank doesn't get hot as we use and Cliffie use the tank in the engine bay as a hot tank and the cc rad as a cold tank as such and the water just doesn't get hot I still think below 30

[Nev]

FYI (as background on ACTs): I have a post turbo air charge temp sensor on Nipper to measure temps after the Pro Alloy charge cooler. When in summer with approx 25 degree ambient temps (ie a hot day), running at full boost (18 PSI) for sustained periods would make the inlet temps rise to around 40 degrees (ie ambient +15 degrees). For normal fast A-road driving (ie not on full boost all the time) the CC temps would rise to approx 35 degrees. The worst inlet temp I ever saw on my car was 43 degrees once on a baking day while using WOT a lot. In winter the CC temps were obviously a lot lower. From this I conclude that the Pro Alloy CC is a great bit of kit for a 300 BHP car making moderate boost.