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Suspension Refresh.


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#1 waggy

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 02:03 AM

I plan on a suspension refresh over the next month or so, I have a set of Gaz adjustables which I intend to have refurbed. I'd like some advice before I start to take my car to pieces! Bushes, balljoints, drop links, Track rod ends, tie bars. Do these all NEED to be replaced? If not how can you tell? I also intend to have the hubs and wishbones blasted and powder coated. Do I need new bolts all round? Who on the forum does these and what exactly do I need to order? I just dont understand all the different names for these bolts etc :( How the hell do those silly tab bolt things come off? What else would you replace when doing a suspension refresh? Like brake lines etc? Where is the cheapest place to find quality balljoints, I recall something about an allen key...? In fact where would you source these parts if you were buying? I would also like to buy as much of these parts from forum members who do business as a way of giving a little something back into the comunity. I darent ask the dreaded bush question but I need answers!!! I have read a lot on here about the bushes, I ideally want something I can just put in the hole on the wishbones without having to pack the centre with grease or mess around too much, something for everyday use on bumpy roads (If there was such a clasification I think I live on an E class road, the locals think my car is a lawnmower because it trims the grass that grows up the centre of the road!!). I have airtools and a press. I think I will need them! Also need a bush removal tool and a balljoint removal tool. I think it's one of the elise _____ ( cant remember the name) places that sell them, any advice on which ones to get or are they :gayfight:? I'm really getting my teeth into working on this wee car now, maybe I will grow a set and actually remove my clams sometime soon (it's the one thing I'm really scared to do). I really appreciate all the help everyone here has given me in the last while. It's not a joke to say I spend hours on the forum everyday and have done now for a few months, I'm a little compulexic, recently learned how to put a picture on here! :) (thanks 2.2) my post count is small because it seems that there is always someone much more knowledgable than myself to give an answer. Maybe someday I will be able to provide others with something as usefull as the help and advice I've been given. Thanks in advance for your replies, Waggy.

#2 JG

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 05:27 AM

wow, that's a lot of questions :D If you want to have your wishbones powdercoated, you will have to remove the bushes as they can't take the baking temperature of the powdercoating oven. You can do this before or after. There is a wide choice of bushes, OEM £280ish, polibushes at around 160-200 (includes for example nylatron and powerflex) and a couple of alternatives. I went with seriouslylotus' bushes which are made by the same manufacturer as OEM and are slightly cheaper. Rubber bushes (OEM and SL replacement) are a little harder to refit as they have to be torqued up with the suspension under load (in other words at the correct ride height). Poly bushes can be torqued up with the suspension at any height. To powdercoat, it is recommended that you start with (fine) sand blast or glass bead blast to remove oxidation. If you do that, it is better to remove the ball joints, and since you've got as far and gone to the effort of removing the wishbones you might as well change the ball joints. Ball joints come in a variety of guises. You can have OEM for about £25 each, delphy patern for about £15 and a lower quality delphy for around £8. I would recommend eliseparts or seriouslylotus for ball joints. The tabs on the rear suspension bend off easily with a small screwdriver Therefore, so far, you've taken it all apart and you're going to change the ball joints and the bushes. You might as well get the uprights powercoated while you are there. Do do that you'll have to take the hub out of the upright, the three bolts are usually pretty tight. Your air tools will come in handy here. You can't blast or powdercoat your hubs, they will either be reused after a little clean up or replaced with new. Yep you've guessed it, i replaced with new. Again elise parts, or OEM. Your rear toelinks will look horrible next to the new suspension, so you'll want to change them too. Its a good idea anyway, they fail sometimes. OEM is fine and Aston Vauxhall on here can get them for around £150. I went for the uprated Elise-Shop one at £250. All the bolts will be rusty, you have a choice, you can get them cleaned up or you can replace with new. There are a variety of kits out there, eliseparts do one, as does elise shop as do I. You don't need to do anything to the brakes, you can come back to them once you've finished the suspension refresh. I would add braided hoses as a matter of course and a good set of pads, and i wouldn't paint the calipers, they will look horrid very quickly. Finally, since the above is quite expensive you might as well add a nice set of gaz golds, nitrons etc :P Hope that helps, JG

#3 BRG_Pete

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 06:42 AM

Wow indeed :) ,

I've just noticed that seriously lotus are doing a refresh pack, it might give you something to compare prices against:

Suspension Refresh Pack

Here are some other guides to help with the refresh:

Suspension Instructions from TADTS.COM
Wiki Bushes
TIS Front Suspension
TIS Rear Suspension

I have a list of the bits I bought when doing the refresh, when I get to work i'll post them up for you.

thumbsup

#4 rsg

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 06:47 AM

I bought most of my parts from Elise parts. When I did mine I fitted: Elise parts uprated tie rod kit 8x ball joints Steering rack track rod ends Autobush wishbone bush kit front and rear I spent over 700 quid on bits, without powercoating anything or replacing the dampers - so budget for more than you think!!!! It took me 4 days solid to fit all that, although for the first couple of days I didnt have access to a vice to push the bushes out, I was using 2 sockets and a G clamp.

#5 Nev

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 08:10 AM

Has anyone uprated with rose joints yet ?

#6 ChrisS1

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 08:14 AM

I think jimmy has Nev.

#7 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 08:16 AM

Stick with the standard bushes, the poly stuff will only benefit you if you want to track and will harshen your ride up albeit by not a lot. Get new bolts and nylocs, makes sense. JG is the best supplier of this kit. Have fun...

#8 rsg

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 08:33 AM

Have fun...


Especially with the caster shims :dry:

#9 BRG_Pete

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 08:41 AM

Here was my shopping list, £500 back in 2009. Ball Joints x 8 - Elise Parts - £155 Poly Bushes - Autobush - £140 Track Rod End x 2 - Elise Parts - £28 Bolt Set - Elise Shop - £23 Drop Links x2 Elise Shop - £31 Hub Carrier Bolts - Elise Shop - £10 Sand Blasting of Wishbones - £60 Tins of Paint (went for POR15 not powdercoating) £18 Camber Shims - Elise Parts - £30 Castor Shims (hmm.. I think these were 38mm Diameter x 10mm washers) about a £5 for a pack of 40. ...what else... Maybe some new p-clips for the brake cables. oh I forget to mention the car feels amazing once the build is complete, well worth all the hard work :D

Edited by BRG_Pete, 17 June 2011 - 08:45 AM.


#10 Pidgeon

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 09:15 AM

I'm half way through a suspension refresh on an 85K miles 8 yo VX. It has led a hard life. I am really surprised how well the original components have coped. All the BJs removed so far are in perfect condition. One bush was showing signs of delamination, others were fine. I have a bolt set, but am reusing originals as they are in near perfect condition. I'm in Birmingham and have the BJ and bush tools available.

#11 JG

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 09:18 AM

I spent rather more than that :wacko: : Bushes £200 Balljoints £160 blast and coat: £100 Toe links: £250 Hubs: £350 Nitron NTR: £1200 CF Kit: £700 bolts: £45 shims+abs brackets+rear locking tabs: £65 front top shock spacers: £20 =£3090

#12 waggy

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 10:52 AM

Lol. JG that is insanity! For that price I could almost get mine supercharged. I have read your project post thoroughly and I can see why you went to those lengths. Yours looks amazing! I will be in touch to order a bolt kit, I'm pretty sure you will be able to advise me of which kit best suits my needs. Thanks to everyone for their help here. I'll let you know how I get on. :)

#13 FLD

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 03:03 PM

I posted up a few pics of my suspension refresh a while ago. There was aprice list on there too. I galvanised all my parts and coated them with U-Pol gravitex. I'd avoid this!! It is hard work and I would not recomend trying to get away without replacing what might be a disposable wear item. The cost of replacement is outweighed by the labour involved. Good luck!!

#14 hairy

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 11:52 AM

Any tips for removal of the front upper wishbone pivot bolt (rearmost) - I can't get it past the steering arm even with the gaiter pushed back?

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#15 FLD

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 11:54 AM

Turn the rack onto full lock.

#16 hairy

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 01:04 PM

thanks Matt, I always get stuck on the obvious things thumbsup

#17 ukcat

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 08:15 PM

Hi - I Have just completed a front suspension refresh - Replacing the camber shims on the top wishbone can be quite difficult - A Very usefull tip is to grind a point on one of the old pivot bolts (like the end of a pencil) once you have inserted the shims which can be very tight - you can then push this sharpened bolt through and widdle it about and it helps to line the shims up - Once lined up you can then insert your new bolt !!

#18 hairy

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 08:28 PM

Thanks UKCAT, still on the disassembly, so I'm sure that will come in useful. :)

#19 ChrisS1

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 09:12 PM

I've got ball joint removal tool if you want to borrow it hairy thumbsup

#20 hairy

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 09:55 PM

Doh! just bought one! Thanks Chris :rolleyes:




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