30 replies to this topic

[davemate]

My Vx has now started shredding belts on the outer edge (away from the engine). It seeks to fray the outside edge and then just start to unravel it's self. I have gone through 1280, 1285 and even a 1290 as that was all I could get hold of. The charger seems firmly attached, the pulley seems good and courtenay motorsport did the adjustment of the sc pulley. I am using the inner 5 ribs of the top pulley.... Any suggestions of what I should be checking, please?

[The Batman]

Have you tried the ouTer 5 ribs?

[davemate]

That just looks like it will pop off the next pulley down when it sits like that. I will go and give it a try though, thanks. Maybe I will make more than 200 miles with this belt!

[chris_uk]

Try a tighter belt?

[davemate]

May be worth a try. I will get in some 1275 belts (anything is worth trying!), although I thought these were a nightmare to get on an involved taking parts of the car apart?

[Sutol]

MartinS has been through all this, might be worth getting in touch because he hasn't had one go for a while - touch wood Martin!

[fiveoclock]

May be worth a try. I will get in some 1275 belts (anything is worth trying!), although I thought these were a nightmare to get on an involved taking parts of the car apart?

I had a 1275 belt on mine on the inner 5 for 12500 miles without problems. I only changed it as we were doing an engine swap and thought we'd stick a new one on but it didnt really need replacing.

[Rosssco]

Are the different length belts readily available from most parts shops, or where do you buy from? Fitting a stage 1 SC with intake spacer, so might need something slightly longer. Ross

[davemate]

I will start with a 1275 and work from that direction.. I have been getting my belts from euro car parts Continental comes in at 7 and a bit quid and they are the same as the ones from CMS. Thanks for the advice all

[FLD]

There was a problem with belts shredding a few years back. Turned out continental had changed the spec on the belt and it was no longer up to the job. This caused loads of problems (not just VX) so they went back to the old spec. Might be worth getting a belt from CMS to make sure you have the right spec belt.

[MartinS]

I have had problems over the last few years, with a combination of squeeling belts and snapping belts. One thing to look at that is a weak point is the tensioner. These can get tired bearings relatively easily it seems and theyre not expensive or difficult to replace. A tigher belt 1270 etc really strains the tensioner and many of us as far as I'm aware are on 1285 belts. Make sure there are no cable ties or anything else in the area of the belt that could be rubbing against it. My belts do seem to snap but the rate varies. Some have lasted a year some a week. I tried just using conti then found some of my problems caused by there lack of quality (bad joins) so tried cheapy ones, but have had the same belt (Conti 1285) now since April which has done 7 trackdays and 5000 miles which is great, and no squeeling, so it really does seem to be belt quality rather than the car. Sorry I cant give any more help, but if your changing belts a lot, (and you probably know all this), cut a small section out of the undertray so your hand can get up there more easily. use an extension tube on the ratchet to more easily pull back the tensioner, and use a block of wood to hold that ratchet and tesnioner back. This make sit a lot easier to quickly change the belt. Also, always have a spare in the boot! Martin s

Edited by MartinS, 25 October 2011 - 09:40 AM.

[Anarchy]

what and why would you use an intake spacer? What happens when a belt goes, does the car run still or are you stranded?

[Anarchy]

what and why would you use an intake spacer? What happens when a belt goes, does the car run still or are you stranded?

[Sutol]

what and why would you use an intake spacer?
What happens when a belt goes, does the car run still or are you stranded?

car will still run but the alternator won't be charging so if you have to use lights it won't run for too long.

[smiley]

What happens when a belt goes, does the car run still or are you stranded?

Spare 7 pound belt in the back is advised

[Rosssco]

what and why would you use an intake spacer?

You don't need one (in case there's any confusion as we are both going stage 1 ), I just bought one when getting a few bits from the US. Its just an attempt to keep the intake cooler given that we won't be using any form of inter-cooling.

http://www.zzperform...=1123&catid=174

[davemate]

thanks Martin/FLD. I bought a couple of belts from CMS, and they shredded. so i have been on conti belts from euro car parts. i will try a 1275 and another 1280 again and see how i get on. they car is going in for a respray very soon, so while it is alwart i can have a really good look at it.

[MartinS]

You know when the belt goes, as the battery charging light comes on and you find yourself driving a 2.2 low powered vx, that can do at least another 5 sessions around Goodwood, including 3 with lights on, and then it will still do 12 miles on road (the last 4 miles home you may have no lights though!!!!!). On a normal day without lights, radio etc I reckon it may last 50-60 miles. Although belts snapping may well be caused by some minor misalignment, I have now concluded it is simply belt quality. The euro parts contis seem good, so go for it. Martin s

[davemate]

So if it shreds a belt I am pretty safe to just cut the belt off and drive home? Forgive ignorance but won't the engine be starved of enough air through the charger? I would just like to know for emergency use.

[Zoobeef]

Its probably a mixture of both the belts and alignment. A poor quality one will shred quicker if irs slightly off. Is there some way they can use a lazer or something to get it perfect?