15 replies to this topic

[Hark]

Can I just clarify something please?

When I bought the car it came with a pack of unfitted Brand new Hub Carrier Bolts 12.9

Am I right in thinking these are NOT the uprated ones?

So these are the ones I want? (10.9)
http://www.mangomoto...p?id_product=15

If so.....

The I was told that they fit where number 5 goes in this diagram? But that's 1 bolt, not 4?



Please excuse my ignorance.
(Actually I don't care if you don't and take the p*ss) as long as I can work out what to do.)

[techieboy]

It's two bolts per corner. Diagram just shows one but shows both holes.

[Hark]

It's two bolts per corner. Diagram just shows one but shows both holes.

Ahh right

Told you I was ignorant.

Thanks for that though.

Presume when I remove the fronts they will be different lengths already so obvious where they both go if they are in the same positions.

Anything else worth changing before fitting sticky tyes?

[SteveA]

8.8 are the standard ones. 12.7's are uprated but some people don't like them. I've been running 12.7's for 4 years

Edited by SteveA, 31 October 2011 - 10:07 PM.

[techieboy]

10.9 grade are the Lotus Motorsport recommended.

[jakbvx]

does anyone know what tightening torque these need ?

[Hark]

10.9 grade are the Lotus Motorsport recommended.

Ye I've just read quite a long old thread talking through the differences. Have now ordered a set of 10.9s

So as it's going to involve having geo reset I presume, is there anything else worth changing that semi slicks will show up weakness in>?

[techieboy]

No need for a new geo, if you remove and replace one bolt at a time before moving onto the next one. Rear toe links are the thing that take a real beating with semi-slicks. So worth replacing with new standard ones, if you're not sure of the history. Or going for one of the upgrade options.

[techieboy]

does anyone know what tightening torque these need ?

As per Lotus service bulletin:-

• Earlier type 8.8 grade bolts should be tightened to 45 Nm; Later 10.9 grade bolts to 68 Nm. The bolt grade is stamped around the head of the bolt.
• The thread of both bolt types should first be thoroughly cleaned before treating with Permabond A130 (A912E7033V).

[Hark]

No need for a new geo, if you remove and replace one bolt at a time before moving onto the next one.

cool

Just done some reading on rear toe links. These are a geo job though aren't they?

Elise parts kit might be affordable, nitron looks pretty and yet unaffordable.

Cool all food for thought. Going to stick to road tyres for the next few trackdays till I learn a bit more. Winter is a good time to get some of these little bits done though.

[techieboy]

Just done some reading on rear toe links. These are a geo job though aren't they?

Yes. Although as it's only toe that is likely affected, you could get away with a "tracking" session at most garages - if you know the value it is currently set to, or that you want. May still be worth a proper geo at a specialist, if it hasn't been done for a while or if you want to change camber etc (most tyre places pale when you mention removing shims etc).

[Hark]

Back on track set it up a couple of years ago I think. Fast road Geo? On this kit: Gazz adjustable coilovers, 425/525 springs

[ghand]

Just changed my toe links. I put my 12" Lazer spirit level on the centre hub coller and up to the brake calliper, then marked the dot on the wheel arch liner. After changing I then just adjusted the link arm till the dot was back on the mark Should be back in the same place. I hope

Edited by ghand, 31 October 2011 - 11:10 PM.

[FLD]

I would deffinitely recomend tapping the holes. I found mine weren't tapped out right down and I was bottoming out with new HCB's.

[JG]

I would deffinitely recomend tapping the holes. I found mine weren't tapped out right down and I was bottoming out with new HCB's.

[simsy]

The bolts must bottom out correctly. If they do not you are playing Russian Roulette... Most failures are down to the following, imo; The bolts are changed or the stock bolts are taken out to remove some chamber shims. The bolts are refitted and bottom out before they clamp the steel block to the hub. Loctite and the correct torque will not effect the resulting failure due to play in the bolts... Just make sure they bottom out. FLD taps them out, or adjust the length of the bolt to ensure it bottoms. Either way the near misses I have heard about make me loose sleep...