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Exhaust Manifold Bolt Question


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#21 Chris P Duck

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 05:33 PM

TIS doesn't give a torque setting for the studs, i suppose they'll torque up with the torque of the bolt, but it would be better to have a torque for both.


12Nm according to this
http://www.speedster...nes (Z22SE).pdf
That that doesn't sound anywhere near enough to me... (Page11)

Edited by Chris P Duck, 25 March 2013 - 05:34 PM.


#22 Zoobeef

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 05:36 PM

Its the turbo being discussed in the thread. Not much though is it.

#23 Chris P Duck

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 05:41 PM

Its the turbo being discussed in the thread.

Not much though is it.


My bad this then
http://www.vx220.org...attach_id=23687
8Nm fcuk me I don't think my wrench goes that low...
Can't find what subnote 2 and 3 mean, but as Zoobeef remembered the Nm-age off the top of his head I'd bet it states wait 5 and retorque

#24 JG

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 05:49 PM

i was talking about the Z22. Given how easy it was to remove the first few studs, i had guessed the torque value was quite low.

#25 Zoobeef

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 06:15 PM

Then as Chris said above, 12nm. The studs will be similar. I have torque wrenches ranging from a couple of nm to ones knocking on the door of 1000nm. 8nm just feels wrong haha

#26 Zoobeef

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 06:41 PM

The Z22 is 12 then wait and 12 again.
Posted Image

Couldnt find anything about the studs. Just nip em up.

#27 Nev

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 07:19 PM

I shouldn't really bother trying to help you again but... As your exhaust will become bloody hot as it's a heavily tuned car that is run hard on a track in a poorly cooled mid engined car, I'd just torque them up with your fingers so that they are finger tight, which will be just a couple of NM (when the manifold is cold). The reason for this is simply that it allows for more heat expansion and reduces repeated strain on the studs, thus reducing their chance of stripping/snapping. You only need to take a little care to warm the engine up for 30 secs before the manifold will warm up enough to seal the gap and increase the pressure on the nuts. If you are worried about the nuts coming off, it's surprising but they never seem to in my experience. Or you can get some wire and twist a few turns around them to lock them if you like.

#28 P11 COV

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 07:24 PM

I shouldn't really bother trying to help you again but...


:huh: Who's that aimed at?

#29 anz3001

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 08:46 PM

haha, can tell there are alot of engineers on this forum......ive been privy to the fitting of literally thousands of exhaust components (manifolds,cats,dpfs,silencers,lambdas) never once seen a torque wrench used on one.....

#30 Zoobeef

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 09:20 PM

To tell you the truth, a lot of the time neither do I for a lot of things. I seem to pick and choose things. Current things are wheel bolts, hub nuts, suspension things and head bolts. Prob a few other select things but it probably depends how calibrated my arm feels at the time of the job. Usually know about what things should be and experience says how much you should hang off the spanner. That and how easy it came undone haha

#31 techieboy

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 10:13 PM

haha, can tell there are alot of engineers on this forum......ive been privy to the fitting of literally thousands of exhaust components (manifolds,cats,dpfs,silencers,lambdas) never once seen a torque wrench used on one.....


Yeah, for sure we've never seen a tyre fitter use one when it comes to re-fitting wheels either. Max torque from the air wrench and tough sh!t if you can't get the bolts out again at the road side. :rolleyes:

#32 anz3001

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 10:25 PM


haha, can tell there are alot of engineers on this forum......ive been privy to the fitting of literally thousands of exhaust components (manifolds,cats,dpfs,silencers,lambdas) never once seen a torque wrench used on one.....


Yeah, for sure we've never seen a tyre fitter use one when it comes to re-fitting wheels either. Max torque from the air wrench and tough sh!t if you can't get the bolts out again at the road side. :rolleyes:


Well actually I had a forum member in for some tyres today...I wonder if he can confirm whether or not my technician/fitter used a torque wrench on his wheels (bloody hope so!!!). Theres a safety issue with road wheels. cylinder heads/timing pulleys etc sure get the wrench out but really, 8nm or 12nm wait 34.5 seconds touch your toes and repeat, on an exhaust manifold, experience says no need

#33 Chris P Duck

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 07:26 AM

haha, can tell there are alot of engineers on this forum......ive been privy to the fitting of literally thousands of exhaust components (manifolds,cats,dpfs,silencers,lambdas) never once seen a torque wrench used on one.....


I do for anything going deep into the head because the Z22SE is made of cheese...
(Deep head, pnar)

#34 Nev

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 12:01 PM

Max torque from the air wrench and tough sh!t if you can't get the bolts out again at the road side. :rolleyes:


Also, you should not over torque wheel bolts as they are designed to stretch. When you brake hard and the heat is transfered to the wheel, the bolts may need to stretch to take the expasnion of the wheel. However, once they have had the stretch taken out of them by over tightening them, they may be more prone to failure, not that i've ever heard of a VX wheel bolt snapping. Worth bearing in mind on heavier cars though.

Edited by Nev, 26 March 2013 - 12:03 PM.





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