
Wheel Nut Torque Setting?
#1
Posted 14 June 2012 - 06:00 AM
#2
Posted 14 June 2012 - 06:07 AM

#3
Posted 14 June 2012 - 06:51 AM
#4
Posted 14 June 2012 - 07:06 AM
#5
Posted 14 June 2012 - 07:09 AM

#6
Posted 14 June 2012 - 07:15 AM
#7
Posted 14 June 2012 - 09:23 AM
mbes just reminded me, remember to throw away the lock nut and replace with standard bolt.

#8
Posted 14 June 2012 - 09:58 AM
#9
Posted 14 June 2012 - 12:11 PM
#10
Posted 14 June 2012 - 12:13 PM

#11
Posted 14 June 2012 - 12:19 PM
#12
Posted 14 June 2012 - 12:55 PM
The likelyhood of them coming undone at 50nm is fairly small.... 90nm is more than sufficient!

#13
Posted 14 June 2012 - 03:04 PM
yes I remember, the effort you were putting in I think it was more like 400nm. 90nm is almost finger tight though90nm!!
We were doing them at 110nm and i could quite easily undo them without much effort..
That said tho i always over tighten them, i use my built in torque wrench and probably do them up to 150ish lol
Some of you may remember at the national last year i snapped a bolt whilst i was tightening them lol
#14
Posted 14 June 2012 - 03:26 PM
#15
Posted 14 June 2012 - 03:30 PM
#16
Posted 14 June 2012 - 04:23 PM

#17
Posted 14 June 2012 - 04:37 PM
#18
Posted 14 June 2012 - 05:02 PM
at the last service back on track put a smearing of copper slip on each boltI check the torque inbetween track sessions.
The bolts should be clean, dry and certainly free from copper grease.
#19
Posted 14 June 2012 - 05:09 PM
#20
Posted 14 June 2012 - 05:24 PM
I appreciate that many people do this, even the 'professionals' but this is a common mistake that has been perpetuated for decades.
But don't take my word for this, read what Bosch say in "Bosch Automotive Handbook" about bolt torques. It's made clear that threads should be clean and dry, and that the torque specified is a function of the friction in the threads. So my adding any lubricated the coefficient of friction changes and therefore so does the torque.

Edited by Ormes, 14 June 2012 - 05:25 PM.
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