32 replies to this topic

[oilman]

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[fezzasus]

If anyone wants to take advantage of this but doesn't know what to order;

Fuchs titan supersyn 5W-40 - http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

Good all rounder for regularly used VX220s

Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 - http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

Higher performance than above for regularly used VX220s (I think it's a bit of an overkill for these engines)

Castrol Magnatec 5W-40 C3 - http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

For VX220s used irregularly.

I would not recommend going for higher viscosity oils or oils labelled as high performance as they have minimal claims and therefore minimal evidence of improved performance. If you track regularly I suggest reducing the oil drain interval. For regular road use 10,000 miles is fine, for cars used infrequently you should change oil every 12 months.

[oilman]

Those are good choices, especially when you compare the prices against some other oils. Cheers Tim

[siztenboots]

is a fully synth really needed for a turbo, mainly road use , something like a A3/B4 spec is enough http://www.opieoils....-titan-xtr.aspx

[oilman]

You'd probably be fine with a semi, but for the sake of a tenner, I'd get a synthetic like the Fuchs Supersyn as you will get better protection. Cheers Tim

[siztenboots]

the fully synth might be better for longer service durations, but I think there are greatly dimishing returns there.

[fezzasus]

is a fully synth really needed for a turbo, mainly road use , something like a A3/B4 spec is enough

http://www.opieoils....-titan-xtr.aspx

That oil only has MB 229.1 claims, which means it's got poor cam wear and sludge/deposit performance. The upgrade to 229.3 claims with the supersyn results in better engine cleanliness.

[Roastie ITR]

If anyone wants to take advantage of this but doesn't know what to order;

Fuchs titan supersyn 5W-40 - http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

I've got my service on the 15th, was the above suitible for an NA or turbo? I've got an NA.

Also, what brake fluid is recommended for road use? Doing a European Road trip in September, so bit worried about boiling my brake fluid around the Alps.

[fezzasus]

If anyone wants to take advantage of this but doesn't know what to order;

Fuchs titan supersyn 5W-40 - http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

I've got my service on the 15th, was the above suitible for an NA or turbo? I've got an NA.

Also, what brake fluid is recommended for road use? Doing a European Road trip in September, so bit worried about boiling my brake fluid around the Alps.

It's suitable for both. I've used it in my NA for the last three services. I've also performed some oil analysis which has shown minimal wear metal content so I have no problem recommending it to others.

Any DOT 5.1 fluid will do. There are also a few DOT 4 race fluids that people recommend - generally with brake fluid it's more important to have fresh fluid than high quality because heat will break down any fluid regardless of quality. Check the colour (should be clear not brown or black) and replace regularly - every two years or less.

Edited by fezzasus, 31 July 2012 - 07:20 AM.

[Nikov]

Can you recommend an oil suitable for an aircooled VW beetle? I've been using 30W mineral oil up to now. As I understand it needs to have ZDDP for the flat tappet cam.

[fezzasus]

Can you recommend an oil suitable for an aircooled VW beetle? I've been using 30W mineral oil up to now.

As I understand it needs to have ZDDP for the flat tappet cam.

All oils have ZDDP - it's the oldest but most widely used additive in engine oil. It's main function is in decomposing on ferrous surfaces and forming a sacrificial film on the metal surface to minimise wear, however it also has anti oxidant properties so prolongs the life of the lubricant.

As for the grades - higher numbers mean greater viscosity, this translates to a greater separation between the rubbing metal surfaces at the contact points (cylinder, tappets, bearings ect). so if you want to protect against wear you should look at increasing the viscosity. there are in practice more issues with doing so - thicker oil grades tend to use lower quality base stocks to overall performance of the oil decreases.

For modern cars the best middle ground currently is 5W-40 or 5W-30 - dropping viscosity to 0W-X grades requires much more expensive raw materials for the same engine performance, and increasing viscosity to 10W-40 or 10W-50 uses lower quality materials for worse performance (or at least unproven performance as most engine manufacturers are only interested in 5W-30 and 5W-40 oils). For old cars such as a beetle running a monograde oil, it becomes more difficult - increased viscosity means poor lubrication at start up (and massive amounts of wear), but decreasing viscosity could cause more wear.

For that reason, I would suggest moving to a multi grade - you may get a bit more oil loss at start up (blue smoke before the engine warms up) but this won't damage anything as you don't have a catalytic converter. something like a 15W-50 or 20W-50/60 will provide the best of both worlds - protection at high temperature and pumpability to the areas that need protecting at low temperature.

http://www.opieoils....motorbikes.aspx

http://www.opieoils....-from-1950.aspx

[Nikov]

Ah, I was under the impression that modern oils had much less ZDDP in them to stop damage to the cat. Would it be worth adding a ZDDP additive too? Although my car is 60 years old it does have a 'tweaked' motor ie high compression, high lift cam, dual valve springs and twin Webbers.

[siztenboots]

I was going to say the build tolerances on old engines, a bit of blue smoke is fine. Its when people switch to mobil1 and wonder why the seals don't.

[fezzasus]

Ah, I was under the impression that modern oils had much less ZDDP in them to stop damage to the cat.

Would it be worth adding a ZDDP additive too?

Although my car is 60 years old it does have a 'tweaked' motor ie high compression, high lift cam, dual valve springs and twin Webbers.

the ZDDP content has come down. but the tests (including a cam and tappet test using tappets from an air cooled VW engine) have become more severe - in short, the ability to create better performing oils with less as increased. There are also two catagories - ACEA A/B and ACEA C - the latter is a reduced ZDDP spec to protect some types of cat (not the one used on the VX) and DPFs, so you have your backwards compatible spec (A/B) and new spec © which means you can still protect your VW engine.

As long as you can find a ZDDP additive with nothing else in, there's no harm in adding a bit, however any with detergent or other additives could cause more damage than good.

[Nikov]

Thanks very much for your help Fezzasus it's much appreciated. How about this one?: http://www.opieoils....p-additive.aspx Cheers Niko

[fezzasus]

Thanks very much for your help Fezzasus it's much appreciated.

How about this one?:

http://www.opieoils....p-additive.aspx

Cheers

Niko

By my calculations that doesn't actually increase the treat rate that much.

Oils typically have 1 % ZDDP in them, so that's (approximately) 10 g per 1L. That ZDDP booster treats 11 L of oil, which means it adds 3 g ZDDP per L.

Frankly, going from 10 g ZDDP to 13 g ZDDP is barely worth it for the price - i'd just stick with using the oil on it's own.

[Nikov]

OK. Cheers again for your help.

[Anarchy]

Can you do oil for the 2.2 supercharger?

[davemate]

Can you do oil for the 2.2 supercharger?

yeah that. mine does seem to burn through the stadard oil, but cliffie mentioned using 5.30 and this did really seem to help.

I may be horribly wrong on that claim of numbers, but interested to hear what oilman reccomends, more often changing of oil with SC, as it does seem to contaminate more quickly than pre SC in my experience.mine goes black in several thousand miles, apposed to pre sc and it still being in a state where i would consider it still "good" oil by the time i have changed it.

Edited by davemate, 01 August 2012 - 01:36 AM.

[fezzasus]

Can you do oil for the 2.2 supercharger?

yeah that. mine does seem to burn through the stadard oil, but cliffie mentioned using 5.30 and this did really seem to help.

I may be horribly wrong on that claim of numbers, but interested to hear what oilman reccomends, more often changing of oil with SC, as it does seem to contaminate more quickly than pre SC in my experience.mine goes black in several thousand miles, apposed to pre sc and it still being in a state where i would consider it still "good" oil by the time i have changed it.

It goes black because it's running a richer fuel map - there's higher fueling which leads to incomplete combustion and sooting of the oil. Consider a diesel which will soot it's oil in about 100 miles, it doesn't take much soot to turn it black.