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Gaz Gold Suspension


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#1 Adam_B

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 07:03 PM

Hi. Recently purchased a set of new Gaz coilovers for my VXT and fitted them over the weekend, Im having a few issues on the front.

Im upgrading from a set of standard Gaz coilovers, The new units differ from the old ones in that the main spring on the fronts is smaller and has a small helper spring on there as well. Is this correct? Reason I ask is because I don't seem to be able to lower the ride height any more than standard.

Im also finding that it feels like the suspension on the front is bottoming out and hitting the bump stops on bumps there would be no issues with on the old setup. Currently I have tried 5 and 8 clicks from soft on the front which im sure i read on here. As far as i know the rest of the suspension components on the car are standard, no lowering brackets or anything.

Ive done a couple of searches on here and keep coming across posts saying to mount the body at the top, before looking on here I phoned Gaz and they told me to mount the body at the bottom. (im presuming the body is the part with the adjuster knob and the logo, which is the correct way round at the bottom)

The ride height seems bizzare but the bottoming out thing is concerning me, can anyone help at all please? I have attached a couple of pics.

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#2 chris_uk

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 07:28 PM

they are upside down and the wrong way round. the adjuster need to face outwards not inwards (towards the chassis) and the adjuster wants to be at the top i believe. i would probably just remove the helper springs all together they are not needed.

#3 wantsum

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 07:28 PM

Looking at the bottom pic , shouldnt the knob go on the out side of the shock , looks like it is very close to somthing on the suspension arm (could be the photo) , when this moves could cause the knocking? too late again !!!

Edited by wantsum, 30 September 2012 - 07:29 PM.


#4 Rickwoo118

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 07:30 PM

I can't vouch for Gaz gold but I recently put on a set of Gaz mono's. I had no Issues on the front but mine didn't have helper springs like yours. Also I mounted mine the other way up. Are you sure it is bottoming out or is it hitting the brackets at the front?

#5 CocoPops

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 07:31 PM

Gaz gold pros have the adjuster at the top. Gaz gold pro 2s have the adjuster at the bottom. So depends how new they are.

#6 chris_uk

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 07:36 PM

ah right yea.. thats it. either way the adjuster should face outwards.

#7 westie

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 07:41 PM

Ask cliffe, he da gaz man !

#8 westie

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 07:51 PM

For a lower ride hight you need to remove the helper springs,when the front end is jacked up there is space between the spring and shock top but as you lower the car it settles into position.if I remember rightly the lowest I could go with the helper springs was 130mm. They look the right way up to me just inside out !

Edited by westie, 30 September 2012 - 07:52 PM.


#9 Adam_B

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 07:52 PM

Cheers folks, I will have another look tomorrow!

#10 Steve.i.am

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 10:11 AM

I have GGP mk2's - and I had some confusion around which way up they go - and conclusion is shock bodies (adjusters) at the bottom. Got this confirmed from cliffie. However I have pointed the adjuster knobs inwards - so that I can adjust them by just reaching under the car. Does this really matter? The lowest I could get mine at the front with the helper springs was 120mm. I have recently tried to go a little lower by removing the helper springs but have noticed there is very little damper movement left before hitting the bump stop. So have kept as was for now. I might go with lowered top mounts at some point. Steve

#11 Adam_B

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 10:47 AM

However I have pointed the adjuster knobs inwards - so that I can adjust them by just reaching under the car. Does this really matter?

The lowest I could get mine at the front with the helper springs was 120mm. I have recently tried to go a little lower by removing the helper springs but have noticed there is very little damper movement left before hitting the bump stop. So have kept as was for now. I might go with lowered top mounts at some point.

Steve

how many clicks do you have on the damper Steve? Sounds like you have done exactly the same as me, my thinking was that it would be easer to adjust as well!

Ive read a few times on here about ride heights being 120mm, 130mm etc, where is this measured from?

Edited by Adam_B, 01 October 2012 - 10:48 AM.


#12 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 12:07 PM

Measured from chassis to floor. Adjusters and body at the bottom on the GGPII, makes no odds as to the adjusters being in board or outboard as long as there is clearance. You will need to fit the lowered top mounts if you want to limbo down to 110mm front but at these heights you are seriously stretching the geometry and upsetting the handling. To go to 100mm front you will need to look into GT hubs and different wishbone angles. I run mine at 110mm front on the monotubes.

Edited by Cliffie, 01 October 2012 - 12:08 PM.


#13 Adam_B

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 12:56 PM

turned the adjusters round and no difference. I can just about reach them to adjust with the steering on full lock. started adding a few clicks to the adjusters and its hitting the bump stops less, however it now feels too harsh for the road, 11 from soft. Maybe this kit is not suitable for a road car? Tempted to chop the bump stops in half, I don't want to risk wrecking brand new suspension though!

Edited by Adam_B, 01 October 2012 - 12:59 PM.


#14 Adam_B

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 01:09 PM

edit

Edited by Adam_B, 01 October 2012 - 01:10 PM.


#15 TazN

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 02:23 PM

plenty of people with GGP's that use them on road so sounds more like something is not right.

#16 Steve.i.am

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 02:28 PM

how many clicks do you have on the damper Steve? Sounds like you have done exactly the same as me, my thinking was that it would be easer to adjust as well!


I think mine have 20 clicks total. From fully wound in (ie hardest) I run -15 clicks rear, -13 clicks front for the road which gives an OK ride (my springs are 425/475). On trackdays I'm currently winding them all in 4 clicks making it -11 rear, -9 front. So front always harder damped than rear which seemed to be the general advice. Driving on the road with the trackday setting (ie when I've forgotton to re-adjust before heading home) its really too hard so I soon pull over and go 4 clicks back out again.

I'm not aware I'm hitting the bump stops at all - but even at 120mm front ride height there is not a lot of shock travel - especially on the o/s - on my car the o/s shock had to be adjusted about 15mm 'lower' than the n/s to get a flat ground clearance. Is my car bent?? Chaps at BOT rekoned no and was not uncommon.

With the adjusters pointing inward on mine I can reach them all easily from underneath the car without needing any steering lock/jack etc.

#17 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 03:13 PM

turned the adjusters round and no difference. I can just about reach them to adjust with the steering on full lock.

started adding a few clicks to the adjusters and its hitting the bump stops less, however it now feels too harsh for the road, 11 from soft.

Maybe this kit is not suitable for a road car? Tempted to chop the bump stops in half, I don't want to risk wrecking brand new suspension though!


Nope, don't chop the bumpstops.

If you want to go lower you should look at the top mounts and positions.

#18 chris_uk

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 03:14 PM

Since when is running the front shocks harder than the front generally advised? The front should always be softer sprung/damped than the rear. Adam, take your helper springs off to start with then what you want to do is sort your rear shocks out first. What you want to do is be able to pull away quickish without the suspension being too hard that it spins up, you want it just soft enough to grip but not too soft that it goes all bouncy/wallowy. Once your happy set the fronts 2 lower and you should have something which feels ok, take it on a round about and see if it understeers / oversteers or way flukily neutral. Alter the front shocks until your happy with how it goes round. Softer front + harder rear = oversteer. Harder front + softer rear = understeer.

#19 Steve.i.am

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 03:31 PM

Since when is running the front shocks harder than the front generally advised? The front should always be softer sprung/damped than the rear.

Yeah ok well maybe not 'generally advised'. But I took these as probably a reasonable place to start.. But yes I accept the under/oversteer requirement will drive it ultimately.

http://www.vx220.org...g/#entry1375246
http://www.vx220.org...g/#entry1374953

#20 chris_uk

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 03:57 PM

mike is a special case lol im slowly working on him to put them the right way round.




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