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Fitting A Limited Slip Differential.

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#1 Dave H

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 04:19 PM

This is quick guide on how to fit an LSD into a gearbox. There is also information in the TIS.

You will require certain specialized tools and measuring equipment.

It assumes that the gearbox is in good condition, the preload of the taper roller bearings and position of the crown wheel is correct. You are using the same crown wheel.

The gearbox has been cleaned (I have machined alloy bungs to fit into the driveshaft seals to stop any ingress of water and foreign bodies)

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The bolts have been removed that hold the two halves of the gearbox together along with the sealing bung, plastic disk and Hex tubular bolt ( I used a tool made from an old clutch driven plate to lock the first motion shaft so that the tubular bolt can be removed).

I have made a tool to push the shaft out of the bearing so that the gearbox can be split. A light tap may be required with a soft faced mallet to the diff' end to break the seal and disengage the locating dowels.

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Gearbox split and diff' removed.

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The bearings are removed, I have made a puller to do this so that no damage is caused to the bearings. Any shims need to be kept to the respective end and bearing.

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A ground Parallel and depth micrometer is used to measure the distance from the crown wheel face to the bearing seating face ( I measure with and without the shim to double check myself) and the dimensions noted down.

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The diff' is turned over, rested on a surface plate and dimension measured using a vernier height gauge from the crown wheel face to the opposing bearing seating face (and shim) and measurements recorded.

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The crown wheel has been removed from the open diff' and fitted to the LSD.

The dimensions to the face where the bearings sit (including the shim) need to be identical to the original measurements. It is unlikely that the original shims will be suitable due to manufacturing tolerances between components (in this instance the overall dimension from one face to the other was 0.008 thousands of an inch different, this would have a significant effect on the bearing preload and relative position of the crown wheel). The thickness of the new shims is worked out by simple arithmetic from the original and new dimensions. New shims in various sizes are available from the dealers. The thickness of the original shim needs to be measured as it is not marked on them. (Both shims need to be determined)

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The bearings are now fitted with the new shims, being careful not to damage the bearings by supporting the crown wheel off the bed of the press and only pressing on the inner race of the bearings and not the cages.

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The LSD assembly is now fitted to the gearbox and the gearbox sealed.

#2 SteveA



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Posted 14 January 2013 - 10:01 AM

Great guide, although I feel the equipment needed may take it beyond most DIY mechanics.

#3 Duncan VXR

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 12:14 PM

Dave good to see it done properly, far to many of these lsd/atb's been thrown in and causing all sorts of issues

For sure the measuring is cruital and imo often overlooked

GREAT guide, as Steve has stated most will not have the tools to complete this but nice of you to share the information anyway, Love how you just make the tools for stuff.......like you do :D

Fancy fitting the LSD to the 02M vag box for me? In fact would you consider offering this service for anyone wanting a diff fitting and if so cost?

Keep up the good work Dave!


#4 Frosty17



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Posted 24 January 2013 - 01:57 PM

Great guide. I'd be pretty interested in getting an LSD fitted too if you do offer your services!

#5 D3YMO



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Posted 28 January 2013 - 03:21 PM

Great guide. I'd be pretty interested in getting an LSD fitted too if you do offer your services!


#6 Mattias


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Posted 08 March 2014 - 12:51 PM

I found one thing that should be added to this guide, after I fitted the quaife diff, sealed and assembled the gearbox I noticed that the maine shaft was near impossible to turn with a gear engaged and it was also impossible to turn the diff in neutral. The problem wasthat the diff was grinding against the machined taperd surface in the clutch side housing so it needed a small amount of material taken of to get some clearance. So before final assembly: 1. Drop the diff in the clutch housing side, spinn it and listen for grinding noise, you may also clean the housing and add a thin layer of dark grease to the diff where the conntact to the housing may occure. This should leave a trace if it has been in conntact with the housing when you have spinned it. 2. Test assemble the transmission without seal compound, only bolts on the clutch housing side is necessary and also the bolt in the shaft needs to be tightend, if not the main shaft might be hard to turn for some reason. 3. Test that the shaft is possible to turn by hand with no tool, in all gears. In neutral it shall be very easy to turn. 4. Slide in a drive shaft in the diff, with box in neutral it should be quite easy to turn by hand. 5. If everything seems fine, take it a part, add sealing compund and assemble gearbox. Tighten all bolts to 28 NM and the bolt in the shaft to 100NM. BR/ Mattias

#7 Nev


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Posted 05 September 2018 - 05:44 PM

Excellent, thanks for posting Dave.

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