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Power Limits Of Leh Engine


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#21 Duncan VXR

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 07:49 PM

Double post, the phone lol DG

Edited by Duncan VXR, 02 March 2013 - 07:49 PM.


#22 Darcini

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 08:02 PM

Nigel my old friend between 2nd child in approx 8 weeks and full steam ahead with Vag conversions and zacs beast in the garage atm time is against me and with a wedding in oct.

Give us a call, be good to catch up ;-)

DG


Ok, so that's a no then! :lol:

#23 techieboy

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 08:04 PM

More of a "no problem but it'll take a Duncan and a half".

#24 Duncan VXR

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 08:07 PM

Lol, Thanks techie :-D Something easy like rod changes sounds a nice change :-D No more Duncan's available due to boss lady ear ache lol DG

#25 MrSimba

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 08:12 PM

My st4 ran with 360ft lb & no problem at all on std internals but know yours will be taking a LOT more of a caning than that engine ever saw George!!! Whats your rev limit been set at? guess a higher limit & much higher torque combined on a std engine would be the killer for sure,

#26 GeorgeBC

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 08:15 PM

My st4 ran with 360ft lb & no problem at all on std internals but know yours will be taking a LOT more of a caning than that engine ever saw George!!!

Whats your rev limit been set at? guess a higher limit & much higher torque combined on a std engine would be the killer for sure,



Dunno but it runs out of grunt higher up the rev range anyway. Do seem to get carried away and bounce it off the limiter fairly regularly though :blush:

#27 Bargi

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 09:06 PM


Not just me worried then Nigel :lol:/>

Paranoia is catching....

Yes, but head has to come off also

DG


You up for it then Dunc? Wouldn't be for at the very least a month or two, need to remove them from the old LEH first, oh and the cams too whilst I'm at it.


Yeah, but if you've got to the point of head off and changing the rods the cost now do hone the block and uprate the pistons is much cheaper than when you do it seperatly later. I have a degree in man math bte.

#28 GeorgeBC

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 09:10 PM

Im sure you could change them yourself Nigel. I could come and help, i like the idea of practicing jobs ive never done before on other peoples cars before my own :lol:

#29 Darcini

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 09:12 PM



Not just me worried then Nigel :lol:/>

Paranoia is catching....

Yes, but head has to come off also

DG



You up for it then Dunc? Wouldn't be for at the very least a month or two, need to remove them from the old LEH first, oh and the cams too whilst I'm at it.


Yeah, but if you've got to the point of head off and changing the rods the cost now do hone the block and uprate the pistons is much cheaper than when you do it seperatly later. I have a degree in man math bte.


Get thee behind me, Bargi, I hear 'voices' in my head saying things like that all the time...:angry:

#30 Darcini

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 09:17 PM

Im sure you could change them yourself Nigel. I could come and help, i like the idea of practicing jobs ive never done before on other peoples cars before my own :lol:/>


If we can get a deal on two sets of Aldi steel rods we could fit them "together" ? Think of the peace of mind George, all those missed gears will no longer be a problem :)

#31 GeorgeBC

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 09:23 PM


Im sure you could change them yourself Nigel. I could come and help, i like the idea of practicing jobs ive never done before on other peoples cars before my own :lol:/>


If we can get a deal on two sets of Aldi steel rods we could fit them "together" ? Think of the peace of mind George, all those missed gears will no longer be a problem :)


I like the idea of having a stock engine that can be replaced quickly and at low cost. £505.55 for steel rods and ARP bolts. What else will we need? Head bolts, head gasket, cambelt kit plus the hassle of doing it. Don't fancy it my self when you can keep your car at a safe level and its hardly slow.

#32 Darcini

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 09:32 PM



Im sure you could change them yourself Nigel. I could come and help, i like the idea of practicing jobs ive never done before on other peoples cars before my own :lol:/>


If we can get a deal on two sets of Aldi steel rods we could fit them "together" ? Think of the peace of mind George, all those missed gears will no longer be a problem :)/>


I like the idea of having a stock engine that can be replaced quickly and at low cost. £505.55 for steel rods and ARP bolts. What else will we need? Head bolts, head gasket, cambelt kit plus the hassle of doing it. Don't fancy it my self when you can keep your car at a safe level and its hardly slow.


You are so sensible George.

#33 Darcini

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 09:35 PM

In a good way, I mean : lol:

#34 Crabash

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 11:25 PM

Nigel my old friend between 2nd child in approx 8 weeks and full steam ahead with Vag conversions and zacs beast in the garage atm time is against me and with a wedding in oct.

Give us a call, be good to catch up ;-)

DG


Oi you are too busy :P

#35 Nev

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 08:03 AM

...but it runs out of grunt higher up the rev range anyway...


This is the crux bottleneck on the stock mechanicals unfortunately. It is dictated primarily by the size of the turbo, but can be alleviated by improving breathing, so that the existing amount of boosted air can flow better into the engine.

If I were you I'd be a bit cautious of going to 400 ft/lb with skinny tyres as it is very hard to judge just how much you can press the accelerator (and I'm speaking from experience). I think your money would be well spent on a new inlet manifold, as this will improve the breathing at high RPM and extend your rev range a bit and make sure the top of your power curve doesn't flatten off so much. Hence you'd get more power at the top in a more linear fashion without more torque.

I usually drive around with just 325 ft/lb of torque and 450 BHP (which is plenty fast enough most of the time) and it's great as the car is so smooth/linear/predicatble. When I set the boost up to 21 PSI and get 425 ft/lb, ultimately the car is a lot faster (in good conditions), but scary to drive unless on good tarmac and with hot tyres. All in all, what I'm trying to say with the best intentions is: think about keeping the torque down and concentrate on getting more top end power by what ever sensible ways you can. If you want, I know someone who can make you a new inlet manifold very cheaply that will yield approx 20 BHP for your top end if you want. Also concentrate on your inlet and boost pipework if you haven't done so already, I'm sure Duncan can help you out there.

If you want, give me a ring and I can try and give you some genuine no nonsense objective advice.

Good luck, and as you say your car is already bloody fast !!

#36 GeorgeBC

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 09:10 AM

Cheers for the advice like always Nev thumbsup This thread was never about getting more power out of my car it was more about making sure my car doesn't make more power than it can cope with. My car breathes pretty well. it has the Apexi cone filter then enlarged pipework with no AMM to add any restriction. The pipework from my cc to the top hat is all larger than the port from the cc so the next restriction is the turbo then the cc then the inlet manifold. Im aware of this but im also aware that theres little point me spending £600 for a new manifold (or buy a cheaper replica) when im on standard internals. If i want to get more from my car im going to have to throw some rods in, if im doing that i may as well stick some pistons in, then cams, if im doing all this and now have a stronger engine i may as well get some bigger injectors and a garrett. It all snow balls costing thousands of pounds and i wont enjoy the car any more than i already do. Ill be scared to use it, it will cost more to run and insure, ill get even less miles to a tank, it will put more strain on other components, it will likely generate even more heat in the engine bay, car will be too fast to have many people to play with on trackdays (thats the few trackdays ill be able to do because my car will likely be even louder). My car isnt on skinny tyres but they arent as fat as yours. Im running 245 on the rear and im well aware that at the power i already have they want to spin up so anymore will be worst. Im very happy with the performance of my car and if i can have a fairly reliable enjoyable 320bhp/360ftlb with a switchable map for adverse weather then im a happy man. When the thing finally lets go i can get an engine for £1000 chuck a belt on it and have it fitted in a weekend.

#37 MrSimba

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 09:19 AM

£600 for a new manifold (or buy a cheaper replica) when im on standard internals. If i want to get more from my car im going to have to throw some rods in, if im doing that i may as well stick some pistons in, then cams, if im doing all this and now have a stronger engine i may as well get some bigger injectors and a garrett. It all snow balls costing thousands of pounds and i wont enjoy the car any more than i already do. Ill be scared to use it, it will cost more to run and insure, ill get even less miles to a tank, it will put more strain on other components, it will likely generate even more heat in the engine bay, car will be too fast to have many people to play with on trackdays (thats the few trackdays ill be able to do because my car will likely be even louder).


Next time I'm coming to you for advice not DG & Nev!!! :P

#38 GeorgeBC

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 09:21 AM

:lol: I would be a liar if i said i hadn't considered it.

#39 siztenboots

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 09:47 AM

get the inlet manifold

#40 GeorgeBC

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 11:29 AM

Its cheaper than when i last looked, now only £500.




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