61 replies to this topic

[fezzasus]

I've got the spitfire toe link kit?

 

That can be adjusted, you space out the hub carrier side with washers to adjust for rear bump steer. TBH i've never experienced rear bump steer

[siztenboots]

if the kit uses a seperate bolt and spacer piece for the outer joint to the hub , then you can adjust it

[Matthew Bentley Racing Ltd]

As above, that will be fine, just get it set correctly. 

 

[Bumblebee]

I'm not even sure it's rear bumpsteer tbh ,think it's front bumpsteer? All I know is when I hit a bump it knocks the steering wheel left or right etc

[Matthew Bentley Racing Ltd]

 

I've got the spitfire toe link kit?

 

That can be adjusted, you space out the hub carrier side with washers to adjust for rear bump steer. TBH i've never experienced rear bump steer

 

 

 

Rear bump steer is harder to feel at low road speed's/loads. Normally felt more when loaded up as a roll oversteer if set wrong. Knowing if you have too much is also harder again to 'feel' for most people.  

[Matthew Bentley Racing Ltd]

I'm not even sure it's rear bumpsteer tbh ,think it's front bumpsteer? All I know is when I hit a bump it knocks the steering wheel left or right etc

 

 

That is front bump steer. 

[siztenboots]

If you just changed the rear suspension height from 140mm to 120mm as stated, without reseting the geo , you would get more Toe in

 

[techieboy]

this; http://www.verboom.n...0618/index.html

 

 

Turdos and late NA's come with the "raisers" fitted from standard.

[siztenboots]

 

this; http://www.verboom.n...0618/index.html

 

 

Turdos and late NA's come with the "raisers" fitted from standard.

 

 

if you went very extreme on the lowering on the front, could you fit the trackrod on upside down, ie. the nut on the top.

 

[Bumblebee]

If you just changed the rear suspension height from 140mm to 120mm as stated, without reseting the geo , you would get more Toe in
 

Thanks that makes more sense to me

[ghand]

Makes me laugh all this 0.1 mm of accuracy on a car toe,and we get that by hanging a Laser across four old VX wheels?

[ghand]

 

this; http://www.verboom.n...0618/index.html
 

 
Turdos and late NA's come with the "raisers" fitted from standard.
 

 
if you went very extreme on the lowering on the front, could you fit the trackrod on upside down, ie. the nut on the top.
 

When I changed them on mine they were both upside down, I presumed by mistake. Tapered aren't they?

[siztenboots]

everyone has a pocket micrometer

[ghand]

everyone has a pocket micrometer

yes you would need one with mass produced hubs and wheels and then tyres are also made accurate to 0.1 mm as you well know. I think someone is taking the p*ss, have you checked the paint is the same thickness round them wheel rims of yours?

[Scuffers]

It won't make a blind bit of difference. Spend the money on your standalone ECU. If you were to get this kit you'd want to have the rear uprights machined down as well. Then you'd need a completely new geo and camber set up. It'll eat your inner tyre tread and for the money won't give you much benefit per £.

 

 

 

It won't make a blind bit of difference. Spend the money on your standalone ECU. If you were to get this kit you'd want to have the rear uprights machined down as well. Then you'd need a completely new geo and camber set up. It'll eat your inner tyre tread and for the money won't give you much benefit per £.

what he said.  For most its a box ticking / pub talk exercise but if your money is burning a hole in your pocket got for it.  It wont do anything that you'll notice as adverse.

 

yea, right.

 

OK, back to first principals..

 

the reason they exist is twofold.

 

1) to enable the use of more camber without having to get the uprights machined

2) to have the ability to set the bump-steer for any combination of ride hight/caster/rack hight.

 

Yes, you can achieve the same goals with machining, moving the rack about & bending the steering arms, but it's a lot harder and less precise.

 

Yes, bump is just as relevant on the road as the track, more so when you consider that your usually dealing with much more wheel-travel.

 

All that said, they are really only needed if you have moved into a problem area in the first place, ie, beyond the limits of the std setup, ie, ride hight outside of usual limits or a change in front wheel/tyre setup.

 

downside to them is they have to be setup right, just bolting them on usually makes it worse as most places don't have a clue what they are trying to setup, the description is also a bit misleading, you need bump-steer, the trick is to get it right, get it wrong and the car not only handles like a pig, it can be positively dangerous.

 

Lastly, for camber to wear out the front tyres unevenly requires a shed load of camber, like 4-5+ degrees, something I doubt most would get into.

[ArticMonkey]

It won't make a blind bit of difference. Spend the money on your standalone ECU. If you were to get this kit you'd want to have the rear uprights machined down as well. Then you'd need a completely new geo and camber set up. It'll eat your inner tyre tread and for the money won't give you much benefit per £.

   

 

It won't make a blind bit of difference. Spend the money on your standalone ECU. If you were to get this kit you'd want to have the rear uprights machined down as well. Then you'd need a completely new geo and camber set up. It'll eat your inner tyre tread and for the money won't give you much benefit per £.

what he said.  For most its a box ticking / pub talk exercise but if your money is burning a hole in your pocket got for it.  It wont do anything that you'll notice as adverse.  

yea, right.   OK, back to first principals..   the reason they exist is twofold.   1) to enable the use of more camber without having to get the uprights machined 2) to have the ability to set the bump-steer for any combination of ride hight/caster/rack hight.   Yes, you can achieve the same goals with machining, moving the rack about & bending the steering arms, but it's a lot harder and less precise.   Yes, bump is just as relevant on the road as the track, more so when you consider that your usually dealing with much more wheel-travel.   All that said, they are really only needed if you have moved into a problem area in the first place, ie, beyond the limits of the std setup, ie, ride hight outside of usual limits or a change in front wheel/tyre setup.   downside to them is they have to be setup right, just bolting them on usually makes it worse as most places don't have a clue what they are trying to setup, the description is also a bit misleading, you need bump-steer, the trick is to get it right, get it wrong and the car not only handles like a pig, it can be positively dangerous.   Lastly, for camber to wear out the front tyres unevenly requires a shed load of camber, like 4-5+ degrees, something I doubt most would get into.

So are you agreeing with some of what's said. I was using the inner tyre wear story more to put Aimy off the idea. I'll be getting the EP arms eventually after Mathew told me his plan for my car. However it will only be down with a full suspension refresh and shock/rack change.

[RichieVX220]

When you drive along the road and hit a bump does the car change direction?

What sort of bump are we talking of?

[Matthew Bentley Racing Ltd]

 

When you drive along the road and hit a bump does the car change direction?

What sort of bump are we talking of?

 

 

Anything really, from a fast bump/rise in the road to a pot hole. Anything that makes the suspension move, because if your bump steer is set wrong then the car will change direction as the suspension travels. 

[Mike (Cliffie)]

I love my kit and wouldn't be without it now.

[siztenboots]

for the front , its approx 1mm toe-out for 25mm of bump

 

having said that, the compliance and condition of the bushes will change that