I've been reading the guide (thanks Vocky) and the task looks good.
So........only details I couldn't find are the details between the two CS sell.
Posted 17 November 2014 - 10:39 AM
I've been reading the guide (thanks Vocky) and the task looks good.
So........only details I couldn't find are the details between the two CS sell.
Posted 17 November 2014 - 10:51 AM
Mark, just be aware that the OEM pump is very quiet and can flow for 300bhp. The walbro (I had the 255) stuff is proper loud and you can even hear it when the engine is running. Not an issue for a track car but for a road car it takes some getting used to.
Edited by SteveA, 17 November 2014 - 10:52 AM.
Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:00 PM
Hi Mark,
As you track your car and for simplicitys sake, maybe you could consider leaving the OEM pump as it is and add a swirl pot and external power pump. That way you wont have to cut the panel above the fuel canister and have to wrestle with it all.
Edited by Nev, 17 November 2014 - 12:13 PM.
Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:18 PM
Hi Nev,
Such as ..
more options, back to reading about this type of setup now
Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:21 PM
If you've got a standard tank, fit a swirl pot setup.
If you've got a ProAlloy tank, fit an uprated pump.
No point in adding additional complexity, costs and points of failure, if you don't need to. Simples.
Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:34 PM
Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:45 PM
And if you supply a proper 14v to the pump, the OEM is even good for a bit more.Mark, just be aware that the OEM pump is very quiet and can flow for 300bhp. The walbro (I had the 255) stuff is proper loud and you can even hear it when the engine is running. Not an issue for a track car but for a road car it takes some getting used to.
Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:53 PM
Been chatting with CS... they said pump can be removed via the access top panel, "thats how we do it"..... from the threads on .org I can't see how thats possible but they seem to think it was.
I have ordered the Fuel Pump Uprated 255 ... going to check removal of the tank, as did plan for a PA tank at some point next year. (cutting the panel slightly bigger could still be a plan)
They confirmed the 255 was good for 350bhp and at a push been seen for 400bhp setups.
At Bedford (GT layout) I did suffer from fuel [color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]starvation... but from what I read thats common on those bends while low on fuel... [/color]
The main reason I'm looking to replace was because at high revs (car limit & woodbridge yesterday) it was struggling I suspect and kept cutting the power till it recovered.[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;] [/color]
Edited by mbes2, 17 November 2014 - 12:54 PM.
Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:56 PM
Hi Nev,
Such as ..
more options, back to reading about this type of setup now
Yep, something like that, but with the return line from the fuel rail going back into the swirl pot. As I see it:
Positives of swirlpot + power pump:
1. No need to cut the bulkhead and fiddle with the fuel canister (took me about 6 hours when I did mine).
2. No risk of fuel starvation due to low tank levels.
3. Future proof, a Bosch xxx044 pump will supply upto about 600 BHP.
Negatives of swirlpot + power pump:
1. More weight.
2. More noise.
3. More electrical current drain.
4. More points of failure.
5. More fuel pipes in engine bay, so more risk for fire in a crash.
6. Some (easy) extra electical work required.
7. Difficulty to find a location in the engine bay to install it.
Posted 17 November 2014 - 02:04 PM
It's worth dropping the tank anyway just to have a look at it. They suffer quite badly from corrosion and might either need preventative action, or in severe cases replacing.
I've got mine out at the moment (the tank, not my manhood), and it's starting to go in the corners. I'm glad I took it out now
Posted 17 November 2014 - 02:10 PM
Not without modifying they won't It physically won't fit through the oem hole. JG's enlargement mod, is about as small as you can keep it. (Ask VockyBeen chatting with CS... they said pump can be removed via the access top panel, "thats how we do it"..... from the threads on .org I can't see how thats possible but they seem to think it was.
Posted 17 November 2014 - 02:27 PM
JG's enlargement mod, is about as small as you can keep it. (Ask VockyHe had to twist it, wriggle it out)
Must resist inuendo....must resist!!
Posted 17 November 2014 - 02:51 PM
Posted 17 November 2014 - 07:17 PM
Walbro 255 will be plenty.
When I dyno'd my car a few weeks back I had a pressure gauge and while it was doing the pulls and was always over 4 bar when WOTing
Worth sending your kit to Spitfire for moding so you don't get the horse pissing sound as the tank empties out and if you're sticking with the standard tank less chance of starvation.
While I've not done the maths, I reckon the swirl pot seems like a cheaper option but once you start adding up the bits the price will start climbing and the time to fit and fabricate. The simplicity of swapping the tank, even if it did cost more, appeals to me.
I'm sure someone who's actually done either of the above will prove me wrong!
Regarding your setup, is the installation noisy? If so it allows a possibility which may help and save you a lot of money. Basically the unit has an eductor which is tuned to the output (well more accurately the return) pressure. If you just fit the Walbro without adjusting this it usually results in high pressure return fuel hitting the lid of the pump unit and flying out sideways, outside of the pump canister, this fuel normally gently flows over the top of the standpipe and into the can. What this means in reality is the return fuel which should not only be returned to the canister but also suck in fresh tank fuel via the eductor principle as well, is mostly sprayed back into the tank reducing the fuel in the canister for the next corner. We have sold loads of S2/VX units to Bernard for the Audi Elise conversions all without issue and they make similar outputs. If you are going to hard track the car at tracks with long left handers then a swirlpot or trapped tank is needed, the advantage of a trapped tank is that it keeps a single in tank pump, personally I am not a fan of several feet of HP fuel hose and several components in the engine bay.
Posted 17 November 2014 - 07:26 PM
The simplicity of swapping the tank
Posted 17 November 2014 - 09:09 PM
Sounds easy, isn't. 60L especially, a swear-filled squeezeThe simplicity of swapping the tank
Posted 17 November 2014 - 09:50 PM
only if you're the person fitting itSounds easy, isn't. 60L especially, a swear-filled squeezeThe simplicity of swapping the tank
Edited by Bargi, 17 November 2014 - 09:50 PM.
Posted 18 November 2014 - 09:23 AM
Indeed, if it's ONLY me fitting it, then yes it's a no-go (Matt had fcuked off down the pub). When the pair of us did it, it was still a squeeze. Even vocky has said its tight for the 60L. You need to tweak/move the wiring loom to get the last few mmonly if you're the person fitting itSounds easy, isn't. 60L especially, a swear-filled squeezeThe simplicity of swapping the tank
Posted 08 January 2015 - 07:01 PM
Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 08 January 2015 - 07:02 PM.
Posted 08 January 2015 - 07:12 PM
310bhp mine ran out at
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