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Fuel Pump Replacement


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#1 mbes2

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 10:39 AM

I've been reading the guide (thanks Vocky) and the task looks good.

 

So........only details I couldn't find are the details between the two CS sell.

 

Fuel Pump Uprated 255 - VX220/Speedster 2.2 16v 2.0 Turbo
 
 
For cars running big horsepower and high boost levels, fuelling is critical. This replacement uprated high flow fuel pump is ideal to replace and OE fuel pump that has failed or to take over from where the original 'OE' fuel pump starts to run out of ability, to maintain good fuel flow. Flow Rate 255 lph at 3 bar pressure, 225 at 5 bar.
 
Also suitable for direct replacement of a failed or failing OE fuel pump.
 
Fits in place of original pump in the original in tank housing.
 
 
OR
 
 
Fuel Pump Uprated 450 - VX220
 
 
When running big horsepower and high boost levels, fuelling is critical. This replacement uprated high flow fuel pump is ideal to replace and OE fuel pump that has failed or to take over from where the original 'OE' fuel pump starts to run out of ability, to maintain good fuel flow.    Flow Rate 455 lph at 2 bar pressure, 420 lph at 3 bar pressure, 390 lph at 5 bar
 
Fits in place of original pump, will require modification to the OE housing in order to fit
 
 
Turbo running Over 320bhp +  (who knows might go up one day)
 
 
Funny reading about the hole cutting thread... so I wont add to that just yet.
 
After your views on above parts, pro & cons, what did you fit ?
 
Im kinda leaning towards the 450 pump but would be good to get some more input from other members.
 
Thanks 
 
Mark 


#2 SteveA

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 10:51 AM

Mark, just be aware that the OEM pump is very quiet and can flow for 300bhp. The walbro (I had the 255) stuff is proper loud and you can even hear it when the engine is running. Not an issue for a track car but for a road car it takes some getting used to.


Edited by SteveA, 17 November 2014 - 10:52 AM.


#3 Nev

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:00 PM

Hi Mark,

 

As you track your car and for simplicitys sake, maybe you could consider leaving the OEM pump as it is and add a swirl pot and external power pump. That way you wont have to cut the panel above the fuel canister and have to wrestle with it all.

 


Edited by Nev, 17 November 2014 - 12:13 PM.


#4 mbes2

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:18 PM

Hi Nev, 

 

Such as ..

 

Posted Image

 

more options, back to reading about this type of setup now



#5 techieboy

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:21 PM

If you've got a standard tank, fit a swirl pot setup.

 

If you've got a ProAlloy tank, fit an uprated pump.

 

No point in adding additional complexity, costs and points of failure, if you don't need to. Simples. 



#6 chris_uk

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:34 PM

I just added the big walbro pump, the mods to the housing are just filing a lip off, its a perfect ftit then and everything slots into place. No need fit a swirlpot really unless you like long stints on track. Ive never sufferred starvation on track since fitting this pump even when the fuel has been quite low. (<12L)

#7 Exmantaa

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:45 PM

Mark, just be aware that the OEM pump is very quiet and can flow for 300bhp. The walbro (I had the 255) stuff is proper loud and you can even hear it when the engine is running. Not an issue for a track car but for a road car it takes some getting used to.

And if you supply a proper 14v to the pump, the OEM is even good for a bit more.

#8 mbes2

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:53 PM

Been chatting with CS... they said pump can be removed via the access top panel, "thats how we do it"..... from the threads on .org I can't see how thats possible but they seem to think it was.

 

I have ordered the Fuel Pump Uprated 255 ... going to check removal of the tank, as did plan for a PA tank at some point next year. (cutting the panel slightly bigger could still be a plan)  

 

They confirmed the 255 was good for 350bhp and at a push been seen for 400bhp setups.

 

At Bedford (GT layout) I did suffer from fuel [color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]starvation... but from what I read thats common on those bends while low on fuel... [/color]

 

The main reason I'm looking to replace was because at high revs (car limit & woodbridge yesterday) it was struggling I suspect and kept cutting the power till it recovered.[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;] [/color]


Edited by mbes2, 17 November 2014 - 12:54 PM.


#9 Nev

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 12:56 PM

Hi Nev, 

 

Such as ..

 

Posted Image

 

more options, back to reading about this type of setup now

 

Yep, something like that, but with the return line from the fuel rail going back into the swirl pot. As I see it:

 

Positives of swirlpot + power pump:

1. No need to cut the bulkhead and fiddle with the fuel canister (took me about 6 hours when I did mine).

2. No risk of fuel starvation due to low tank levels.

3. Future proof, a Bosch xxx044 pump will supply upto about 600 BHP.

 

 

Negatives of swirlpot + power pump:

1. More weight.

2. More noise.

3. More electrical current drain.

4. More points of failure.

5. More fuel pipes in engine bay, so more risk for fire in a crash.

6. Some (easy) extra electical work required.

7. Difficulty to find a location in the engine bay to install it.



#10 Gedi

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 02:04 PM

It's worth dropping the tank anyway just to have a look at it. They suffer quite badly from corrosion and might either need preventative action, or in severe cases replacing.

 

I've got mine out at the moment (the tank, not my manhood), and it's starting to go in the corners. I'm glad I took it out now thumbsup



#11 CocoPops

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 02:10 PM

Been chatting with CS... they said pump can be removed via the access top panel, "thats how we do it"..... from the threads on .org I can't see how thats possible but they seem to think it was.

Not without modifying they won't It physically won't fit through the oem hole. JG's enlargement mod, is about as small as you can keep it. (Ask Vocky :lol: He had to twist it, wriggle it out)

#12 FLD

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 02:27 PM

JG's enlargement mod, is about as small as you can keep it. (Ask Vocky :lol: He had to twist it, wriggle it out)

 

 

Must resist inuendo....must resist!! :tt:



#13 CocoPops

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 02:51 PM

I'll line them up, you knock em down :lol:

#14 Bargi

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 07:17 PM

Walbro 255 will be plenty.

When I dyno'd my car a few weeks back I had a pressure gauge and while it was doing the pulls and was always over 4 bar when WOTing

Worth sending your kit to Spitfire for moding so you don't get the horse pissing sound as the tank empties out :D and if you're sticking with the standard tank less chance of starvation.

 

While I've not done the maths, I reckon the swirl pot seems like a cheaper option but once you start adding up the bits the price will start climbing and the time to fit and fabricate. The simplicity of swapping the tank, even if it did cost more, appeals to me.

I'm sure someone who's actually done either of the above will prove me wrong! :D

 

Regarding your setup, is the installation noisy? If so it allows a possibility which may help and save you a lot of money. Basically the unit has an eductor which is tuned to the output (well more accurately the return) pressure. If you just fit the Walbro without adjusting this it usually results in high pressure return fuel hitting the lid of the pump unit and flying out sideways, outside of the pump canister, this fuel normally gently flows over the top of the standpipe and into the can. What this means in reality is the return fuel which should not only be returned to the canister but also suck in fresh tank fuel via the eductor principle as well, is mostly sprayed back into the tank reducing the fuel in the canister for the next corner. We have sold loads of S2/VX units to Bernard for the Audi Elise conversions all without issue and they make similar outputs. If you are going to hard track the car at tracks with long left handers then a swirlpot or trapped tank is needed, the advantage of a trapped tank is that it keeps a single in tank pump, personally I am not a fan of several feet of HP fuel hose and several components in the engine bay. :)

 


#15 smiley

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 07:26 PM

 

The simplicity of swapping the tank

 

:huh:



#16 Graeme Lambert

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 09:09 PM

  The simplicity of swapping the tank

  :huh:

Sounds easy, isn't. 60L especially, a swear-filled squeeze

#17 Bargi

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Posted 17 November 2014 - 09:50 PM

The simplicity of swapping the tank

  :huh:

Sounds easy, isn't. 60L especially, a swear-filled squeeze

only if you're the person fitting it :D

Edited by Bargi, 17 November 2014 - 09:50 PM.


#18 Graeme Lambert

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Posted 18 November 2014 - 09:23 AM

The simplicity of swapping the tank

  :huh:

Sounds easy, isn't. 60L especially, a swear-filled squeeze

only if you're the person fitting it :D

Indeed, if it's ONLY me fitting it, then yes it's a no-go (Matt had fcuked off down the pub). When the pair of us did it, it was still a squeeze. Even vocky has said its tight for the 60L. You need to tweak/move the wiring loom to get the last few mm

#19 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 07:01 PM

Just resurrecting this thread Putting the Harrop on tomoz and I'm running the walbro 255 pump I'm going to run 3.1 pulley do fuel pressure will be less on WOT What power and pulley sizes will this 255 pump cope with ?? Harrop SC

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 08 January 2015 - 07:02 PM.


#20 chris_uk

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 07:12 PM

310bhp mine ran out at

 

 






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