25 replies to this topic

[Hark]

Mine needs full oil change. After something I can order and ill keep spare for top ups. Have runs castrol edge 5w-30 for top ups before. I use a little on track but less than half a litre. Want to price it up and get it ordered this week. Many thanks Matt

[JohnR]

I've been using Castrol Edge 0W40 on my Stage 2 SC as that's what the previous owner used and the car runs well.Will be interested to see if there is a better alternative.

[Bootdog]

10w40 here

If you want to go 5w30, Gulf Formula GVX is fully synthetic, meets lots of technical specs (BMW, Merc, VW) and is reasonable from opie oils.

But I thought 5w30 is too thin?

[Steve.i.am]

I just did my oil & filter change - 10w40 halfords semi-synth. Oil had 20% off so Including the oil filter it was less than £20. Did I go too cheap! 

[Rosssco]

I think the summary from Fezzasus's previous detailed response on SC oil selection, was just to use OEM spec stuff for general road and track use..

[fezzasus]

Correct, and breaking with my previous recommendation, I will suggest this: http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

 

Purely based on the fact that the additive system is developed by my company and I might as well get a return from my recommendation.

[JG]

I use Shell Helix Ultra 

[fezzasus]

I use Shell Helix Ultra 

 

Another good choice, and as GTL filters down to products it will become even better.

[ade]

I picked up some Castrol Edge 5w-40 fully synthetic from Costco but I'm in 2 minds whether it will be ok for my stage 2 sc?

[JG]

it will be fine, just change it gain in less than 5k miles

[Hark]

I never read the original thread Fezz put up, very interesting - learnt a lot.

 

All the below were recommended at some point and are A3/B4. 

 

Are they much of a muchness then? 

 

Motul 8100 X-clean 5W-40 ACEA C3 

http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

Fuchs TITAN SUPERSYN 5W-40 

http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx

Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 

http://www.opieoils....by-ferrari.aspx

 

 

Cheapest of Fuchs TITAN 

[fezzasus]

In this engine, there is no real difference. Modern engine oils are dictated by diesel soot handling. I'm not aware of any oil composition being dictated by gasoline engine requirements in europe. Of the three listed, I have the most faith in the Motul one as it's extensively tested (it's factory fill and service fill oil for most German manufacturers).

[Rosssco]

Halfrauds Synthetic stuff meets the A3/B4 requirements if you're ever stuck. Not too expensive either..

[fezzasus]

and we also supply them (via Comma)

[Chris P Duck]

Correct, and breaking with my previous recommendation, I will suggest this: http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx   Purely based on the fact that the additive system is developed by my company and I might as well get a return from my recommendation.

I've always thought (based on nothing) that the frequesny of oil changes is as/more important than the quality? Based on the fact this is twice the price than the Halfords fully synthetic would it be better to use the one you recommend, or the Halfords changed twice as often (Same cost)

Edited by Chris P Duck, 21 March 2015 - 09:08 AM.

[fezzasus]

 

Correct, and breaking with my previous recommendation, I will suggest this: http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx   Purely based on the fact that the additive system is developed by my company and I might as well get a return from my recommendation.

I've always thought (based on nothing) that the frequesny of oil changes is as/more important than the quality? Based on the fact this is twice the price than the Halfords fully synthetic would it be better to use the one you recommend, or the Halfords changed twice as often (Same cost)

 

 

In short. No.

 

Short oil drain intervals used to make a difference, back when oil was just mineral oil and additives were more of a black art. There have only been minimal oil specifications (ACEA in Europe, API in america) since the start of the 90's, where sludge issues really forced an additive solution. They have rapidly developed since then drastically improving the quality of the oil. Some of the latest engines can use the same oil for up to 40k miles (and trucks up to 100k). This increase isn't made with the concession of durability. This increase in drain interval has only happened because of improvements in oil technology.

 

Basically, there's nothing to gain by changing oil in shorter intervals. You're just wasting time and money. Using a poor quality lubricant will also cause damage from the day it goes in (or more accurately. provide poorer protection from the day it goes in), so changing it more regularly doesn't help.

Edited by fezzasus, 21 March 2015 - 11:05 AM.

[Hark]

What about time period? So using an extreme example, a car that does a few track days but very few road miles and is then tucked up for 12 months. To do 10k miles would take take many years.

[fezzasus]

What about time period? So using an extreme example, a car that does a few track days but very few road miles and is then tucked up for 12 months. To do 10k miles would take take many years.

 

So when you get situations like that, it's more of an issue of water build up in the oil, which will cause the additives to decompose or destabilise, preventing them from working. In these cases it is best to change it every two years maximum.

[ghand]

Just a quick question, if Asda fully synthetic is C3 rated and cost £20 what's the difference to a C3 rated costing £40/50 ?

[fezzasus]

C3 is a minimum standard. Anyone can make a C3 oil, it'll cost about £200,000 to test. The other claims improve performance.

 

The other concern is that two of the four additive companies operate slightly more dubiously in how they approach claims, so the performance may not be as it seems. This is why i'm listing known suppliers and oils.