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What Camber Do People Run For Track


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#1 siobe1

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Posted 23 June 2016 - 04:52 PM

Just bought some elise parts steering arms amd was just wondering what degree of camber people are running on the front for track use and does this have much of a negative effect on the road? Would 2 degree's of negative camber both sides be about right? Many thanks Ben

#2 Nev

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Posted 23 June 2016 - 06:05 PM

It's highly subjective on things like:

 

1. How much you are willing to knacker the inside edge of your tyres.

2. How much you drive round corners instead of straight lines (track only? or road + track?)

3. How aggressive you are, how snappy you want it to break away in the wet.

4. Tyre wall stiffness, stiff sidewall means less tyre contact path roll probably.

5. Spring stiffness (the more stiff, the less it will roll and the less extra neg camber you get).

 

etc etc.

 

Having said that -0.5 degree camber on the front and -2.2 degrees camber on the rear is a fair starting point for a track + road car IMO. This is roughly the compromise that I run with (for road only) after considerable testing over several years. With a bit of toe out on the fronts and bit of toe in on the rear wheels, once again very tyre/car/driver/spring/damper subjective.


Edited by Nev, 23 June 2016 - 06:11 PM.


#3 MAXR

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Posted 23 June 2016 - 06:10 PM

You shouldn't ruin your your inner tyre edges with a decent camber if you drive fast in the corners on track. 😎

#4 siztenboots

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Posted 23 June 2016 - 06:30 PM

take out all the shims max front camber, front tyres last forever even with track use

#5 siobe1

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Posted 23 June 2016 - 08:14 PM

Thanks for the feedback guys, think all the shims have already been removed, so does anyone bother with these different arms that allow more camber?

#6 Nev

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Posted 23 June 2016 - 08:16 PM

take out all the shims max front camber, front tyres last forever even with track use

 

I find that can cause the car to get a characteristic of "will it / won't it" dig in when you turn the steering wheel suddenly. But my car is different to many so not necessarily a common thing.


Edited by Nev, 23 June 2016 - 08:16 PM.


#7 siobe1

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Posted 23 June 2016 - 08:23 PM

Nev Had a nice chap called jeremy pick up an exhaust from me, lives in Bristol, said the nipper was very impressive 😀 Ben

#8 hairy

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Posted 23 June 2016 - 09:02 PM

Nev Had a nice chap called jeremy pick up an exhaust from me, lives in Bristol, said the nipper was very impressive 😀 Ben

 

Safe and sound in my garage now



#9 chris_uk

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Posted 23 June 2016 - 10:06 PM

On semi slick tyres i would say about 1.2-1.5 front and 2.2-2.5 on the rear. Its what i have and it works very well.

#10 NOSBandit

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Posted 23 June 2016 - 10:12 PM

I agree with Nev. I have slightly less negative camber, but mine is rose jointed so no change in geo when cornering.

#11 siobe1

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 05:53 AM

Thanks guys

#12 chris_uk

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 06:38 AM

I agree with Nev. I have slightly less negative camber, but mine is rose jointed so no change in geo when cornering.

Of cause there is a change.. Rose jointed just means the connections wont have any play, it doesnt mean the geo wont dynamically change..

#13 siztenboots

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 07:07 AM

really the beauty of the Lotus kinematics is that it does not matter what tyre or damper or spring you run, it is fundamental to the chassis.

#14 CraigyT

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 08:39 AM

My car is 99% track but does get used on the road. Front camber is -1.8 deg with 0.1 toe in and rear is -2.6 with 0.25 toe out. This is on R888. It likes to "tramline" on the road if you get some shitty surfaces. But overall not too bad. In the wet, forget it, half throttle and your facing the wrong way

#15 chris_uk

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 08:57 AM

My car is 99% track but does get used on the road. Front camber is -1.8 deg with 0.1 toe in and rear is -2.6 with 0.25 toe out. This is on R888. It likes to "tramline" on the road if you get some shitty surfaces. But overall not too bad. In the wet, forget it, half throttle and your facing the wrong way

Really... Have you got an lsd? I can plant my foot and our settings are not that disimilar and mine just starts to misbehave but keep the foot planted and use the steering to correct and it will settle...

#16 siztenboots

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 09:27 AM

those toe-in and toe-out figures must be a typo, opposite surely , toe out rear lol

#17 chris_uk

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 10:36 AM

gotta be a typo. If not it would explain the swapping of ends.

#18 CraigyT

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 01:40 PM

Aye typo lol. I was rushing typing. I have a quaife diff chris. But it also has over 350lbs torque and the boost comes in quite harsh, so need to be carefull on the roads.

#19 Aerodynamic

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 01:49 PM

Do you have toe out in rear?

My car is 99% track but does get used on the road. Front camber is -1.8 deg with 0.1 toe in and rear is -2.6 with 0.25 toe out. This is on R888. It likes to "tramline" on the road if you get some shitty surfaces. But overall not too bad. In the wet, forget it, half throttle and your facing the wrong way



#20 CraigyT

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 07:13 PM

You guys had me doubting myself lol, had to check my print outs... Yes i have toe OUT at the rear. Because its mainly a track car and hardly used on the road. It does make it sketchy on a wet road. Keep in mind that I mainly drive Knockhill and this has been proven to work on other lotus based chassis here. In the dry its fcuking awesome. Anyways to answer the OPs question, adding some camber like you said and keeping the front and rear toe fairly standard it should be fine on the road. You can always change it back again with relative ease on these cars so just give it a try and see if it for you or not.




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