49 replies to this topic

[smiley]

Hosing enters the manifold, which is hidden under the supercharger.
Those 2 pipes sticking out.

Difficult to see from above. Try from the bottom.

 

And yes, 263hp on an SC system with a defect chargecooling will cause HUGE intake temps.

 

Edited by smiley, 06 September 2016 - 10:17 PM.

[ChrisNo/Swe]

Well, it's nice weather tomorrow. Clam off, and fix this mess...

Thanks for the reply Smiley

[ChrisNo/Swe]

This thread escalated quickly from a hello to help.

So CC pump not connected, builder says it was connected when he sold it, the owner in between the builder and myself said he newer touched the wiring.

Im standing here now wondering which wire goes where, Also the relay looks a bit tired so i should probably just change it while i'm at it.

Anywhos, could someone assist with what wire goes where in this setup?

The relay, 30amp is a bit much isn't it?

Several cables have "fell?" off. Two are combined.

Blue and yellow crimps are combined.

I reckon these two buggers are what is suppose to be connected to the pump "pump connectors in the background".

 

So, i know that with all DIY conversions that cable coloring and the way of doing things can be different. But, there should be a right and wrong place when it comes to the two combined cables.

Anybody have an idea which one of the connectors the "double" should be attached to the relay?

[smiley]

There is no exact step by step on wiring, so expect some creativity.

 

Maybe start with some  measuring using a multimeter.

 

You should have:

- Continues power. (maybe switched, maybe not. Depends where it's coming from.) - Signal power. (Usually takes from the fuel pump wire.)

- Ground signal. - Output power to the pump unit.

 

[ChrisNo/Swe]

Pump is up and running and no white smoke is visible so i reckon the manifold survived all the km without cooling then...

Changed the relay to a new one and changed to a 15 amp fuse instead of the previous 30, Also ordered a new wiring harness to the Bosch pump so i can get a good weather resistant connection.

Just made a CAD housing for the relay/fuse that i will get the next door 3D printer shop to make.

I think i might as well start a project thread, Today i made a list of what i WILL do in the near future.

1.Cover interior parts/roof in alcantara

2.change the steering rack "I have a new one"

3.Make new window handles

4.Design and make a new switch panel for lights etc

5.Design and make a new 70mm piece in the inlet to accommodate for a better "sealed..." mount for the MAF

6.Make a smaller header tank for the CC.

7.Get pressed fittings on the fuel lines made.

8.Kill all the rattles, today i fixed both sidewindows "huge difference"

9.Find and install a wiper that actually works

10.Throw those flimsy useless plastic handles to both bonnets in the garbage and mount Aerocatches instead

11.Mount carbon sills "driver side plastic is broken" and also the door opener panels in carbon

12.Remount a couple hundred screws, nuts and washers that former owners "misplaced"

13.Order and replace the main fusebox, A fuse "20amp" have melted parts of it"

14.Remove everything electronic that don't get used "fog lights contacts, alarm, so on so forth"

That should keep me busy for a while.

 

I did not buy a car i bought my hobby back

[ChrisNo/Swe]

Well, Bollocks... 

Engine light on and throttle don't respond, 150km from home.

Had a friend drive it home on a trailer, Removed fuse 8 over the night now and sprayed contact spray on ecu, throttle, throttlebody, and the two big contacts behind the header tank.

 

I suspect it started behaving because the car was out in the rain last night.

[ChrisNo/Swe]

Fuse 8 back in and all is fine and dandy again   I dont really trust this car so far.

Gonna get myself an OBD2 reader so i can kill error immediately 

[smiley]

For a simple reader/remover, this is fine:

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=262580049304

 

Getting the exact code will help in troubleshooting, as specific codes have been linked to specific issues in the past, and that could help you.

 

[ChrisNo/Swe]

For a simple reader/remover, this is fine:

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=262580049304

 

Getting the exact code will help in troubleshooting, as specific codes have been linked to specific issues in the past, and that could help you.

 

Silly Norway, It is 70 Euro here.. Will go get a cheap one for 40 at my local car dealer.

Its when on WWW that you get reminded how awfully expensive this country really is. 

[smiley]

 

For a simple reader/remover, this is fine:

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=262580049304

 

Getting the exact code will help in troubleshooting, as specific codes have been linked to specific issues in the past, and that could help you.

 

Silly Norway, It is 70 Euro here..

 

 

How does that work? The shipping to Norway says 8 pounds in my ebay page.  

[ChrisNo/Swe]

Order it from Ebay is 8 pounds in shipping and then 25% in VAT "21.65".

So that is nowhere near the 70 that they are asking for it in Norwegian stores.

Now i would newer pay 50 more for the same product just to get it faster, but 19 more for a similar product to have it today instead of a week is something i will do. So annoying to have to have to pull the fuse for ages just to reset an error message that is related to the throttle sensor.

[smiley]

Pulling fuse 8 also wipes your short term fuel trims, so yeah getting the reader is better.

Let us know the codes once you get it.

 

[ChrisNo/Swe]

Pulling fuse 8 also wipes your short term fuel trims, so yeah getting the reader is better.

Let us know the codes once you get it.

 

No error codes today, i reckon all got erased when i pulled the fuse overnight.

Well all these small errors are giving me a steep learning curve at least, I had no idea i had an EGR cheater until i started looking for a reason why there was no throttle response.

Also i found a heap of relays just laying on the floor of the trunk...

Are these meant to be attached to the trunk wall? Left rear, front of the rear light.

And what are they for, there is 2 20amp fuses there as well and that seems a bit overkill for the rear lights?

[ChrisNo/Swe]

Also i found a heap of relays just laying on the floor of the trunk...

Are these meant to be attached to the trunk wall? Left rear, front of the rear light.

And what are they for, there is 2 20amp fuses there as well and that seems a bit overkill for the rear lights?

 

Ah, nvm. This program is fantastic

 

[ChrisNo/Swe]

 

That's 4 in two days, pretty sure it is my mom that have arranged this to keep my speed down..

 

Anywhos.

 

Time for stupid questions, i have learnt that it is the fastest way to become less stupid.

 

A couple questions about my engine bay.

1.

This thing is just behind the fuel fill cap, Cable still in it but it is clearly disengaged, ehm, what is it? Should it still be there?  

 

2.

Just above that thing is a breather of some sort.. Now, i cant see the horrendous pile of tubes for the fuel stuff that is usually there.

My guess is that the builder changed that for this, Im sort of glad for it but my car is now a rolling Molotov cocktail isnt it? 

3.

Tube on the right is vacuum for? brake-servo maybe?

Also is that a MAF sensor on the left... Thought that wasnt needed for cars with MAP sensors. I put the tape there because reasons..

its just jammed in the tube, did not look tight so until a better solution, tape 

[smiley]

1. Evap purge valve. Probably left intact to fool the electronics.

 

2.  Evap deleter option. Not much known about those due to not often done.Vocky might be able to help here.      Usually deleted to save weight.

 

3. Tube on the right is indeed the vacuum for the brake servo. Sensor on the left is the temp sensor i think.

Once you run obdtuner, you can convert the tempsensor from the inlet pipe and the map sensor in the manifold into a single tmap sensor.

Edited by smiley, 13 September 2016 - 09:23 PM.

[ChrisNo/Swe]

3. Tube on the right is indeed the vacuum for the brake servo. Sensor on the left is the temp sensor i think.

Once you run obdtuner, you can convert the tempsensor from the inlet pipe and the map sensor in the manifold into a single tmap sensor.

That makes a lot of sense    You are like my Yoda

Edited by ChrisNo/Swe, 13 September 2016 - 09:25 PM.

[ChrisNo/Swe]

But in theory all fuel vapors are being vented into my engine bay now?

I do have big cut outs in the back of the car so i reckon it might not be that bad on this car but still.

[smiley]

Usually the evap hose is connected to a pipie on the 68mm TB, or if not present can be piped back into the inlet pipe.

With so much removed from your setup, i can't comment on your question. Wait for Vocky, or ping him.

[vocky]

I find that removing the charcoal filter can cause a build up of fumes inside the rear clam, especially if always garaged.

 

I would not recommend removing it, but it appears yours has already been removed. My advice would be to refit it and connect it back up to the throttle body via the fuel tank vent valve (evap) shown above (the thing doing nothing)

Edited by vocky, 14 September 2016 - 04:59 PM.